Track Laying Questions

[demonwolf224]

Hello Everybody,

I will be building a layout sometime after Christmas, and I would like to know some things about laying flextrack.

1. Should I solder the joints before I make curves with the flex track?
2. I read the, "Eureka, A Town is Born" section in the January 2009 issue of model railroader, and it said he weathers his track by hand, and without an airbrush. Should I weather with an airbrush, or ties one by one?

That's it, only two questions, if you could give me other tips, please do. Thanks in Advance.

[James35]

Depending on the radius of the curve, you may need two or more sections of flex track.

If the curve requires only two sections, lay the two sections flat and straight, and solder the rails where they join together.  When you go to put the (combined)  6 foot section on the layout, the joint should end up with a perfect curve.  The rails will need to be cut at the far ends.  Just make sure that the rail that slides is on the same side on both sections of flex track.

It gets a bit trickier when you have to solder three or more sections together on a long curve as I did on my layout. 

In this case, solder the first two sections as above.  Then, I placed these two sections on the layout (in the curve.)  But then I let  the last foot of track flex out into a straight secrtion ( a tangent to the curve.)  Once the track was straight , cut off any excess rail so you have the two rails in line with each other.  Then simply soldered the next section on ---- again keeping the third section straight.  You may need to trim ties at the  new joint..   

Repeat if you are adding more sections.

This seemed to work best for me and I hope this helps.

I have yet to weather  tracks.  Buit in case you don't get any replies, here's my best advice.

I would weather the tracks before laying them.

I would spray paint the ties an appropriate color.  Then I would brush the rails an apprpriate rail brown.  Just remember to protect the head of the rail and wipe paint off the head of the rail before it dries.

Switches pose a potential problem as you want the switch points to make the electrical contact.

If this is to be a permanent layout, I would also run electrical feeder wires to every other rain joint.  And on my layout, I placed a small continious bead of glue (Elmer's Glue-all workes fine.) to prevent the track from warping due to humidity conditions.  Elmer's forms just enough bond to hold the plastic ties in place.  But if you want to relocate trackage, Elmer's will release the tracks from the roadbed.  And since it does not bond with plastic, it can be scaped off the plastic ties.

Good luck

James 35

 

[tomikawaTT]

I don't solder my rail joints (not better or worse, just different - and not meant to start a debate.)

One thing I have found helpful is pre-curving the flex, so it will simply lay on the roadbed with minimum side thrust once laid.  Atlas code 100, with one fixed rail, the fixed rail goes to the outside of the curve.  It takes bringing the flex down to about 4" radius in your hands to convince it to take a set for 24" radius.  Can't speak for other brands or rail heights at this time.

Derailment-proofing is a matter of removing all burrs from EVERY rail joint - and one other thing.  Take a little beveled facet off the inner top corner of the railhead at every rail end, so passing flanges won't have any sharp corners to catch on.  Don't remove a lot of metal - just a quick swipe with a file is all you need.

For anchoring flex track to roadbed (and roadbed to the underlying plywood) my material of choice is latex caulk.  It holds well, even in my un-climate-controlled garage in the Dessicated Desert - but it can be persuaded to release when necessary.  (Use a large drywall knife, and be gentle.)  Once lifted, caulk-anchored flex cleans up without much fuss.

Electrically, every rail has to be solidly connected to the power system.  I solder a jumper around EVERY uninsulated rail joiner, and only have a maximum of three rail joiners between an insulated joiner and a drop.  On rail smaller than Code 100 I expect to reduce that to two joiners.

One word about relying on switch points to connect power to the frog and/or the rails beyond - DON'T.  Tortoise and Rix machines have contacts which can be used for power routing, and will give far more reliable results than the usual 'flat to flat' contact of a point against a stock rail.  I, personally, use points which cannot connect power to anything but themselves, so I have to use separate contacts to power live frogs.  (Some of my powered rolling stock has very short pickup wheel bases, so a dead frog is not an option.)

Above all, take a little more time and care.  The tracklayers who laid 10 plus miles in one day back in 1869 were tossing temporary track on a rough roadbed.  It all had to be re-laid afterward.  Hopefully, yours will all go down right the first time.

Chuck (Trackwork fanatic modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on flex, with hand-laid specialwork)

[Texas Zepher]

demonwolf224

Should I solder the joints before I make curves with the flex track?

Depends on how tight the curve is and you want the track to look when you get done.  I NEVER solder before laying.

Here is an example of my flex track joint on a curve lightly soldered.  Note that I lost the "spikes" off of only 1/2 a side of 4 ties.

Below is a flex track joint (on our club layout) that was soldered first.  Note that six ties were totally destroyed.  They will look better when spiked and painted ... but to me that is just extra work.

 

I read the, "Eureka, A Town is Born" section in the January 2009 issue of model railroader, and it said he weathers his track by hand, and without an airbrush. Should I weather with an airbrush, or ties one by one?

Are you personally better painting by had or with an airbrush?  Try it both ways and see which best matches the combination of  1. your skill and 2. the look you are trying to create.