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Jerky BLI M1a DCC

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  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Maryville IL
  • 9,577 posts
Jerky BLI M1a DCC
Posted by cudaken on Saturday, November 29, 2008 6:28 PM

 I have this engine apart three times now with out a hitch replacing center gears, I drag heavy freight and it has seen 200 hours plus of rail time. This time around I had to replaces the engine wiring harness.

  

 That is the old harness I replaced, note the bad solder joint on the left side.

 This time around things did not go smoothly, in fact it is jerky? I finished reassembly at K-10 Model trains, I lost a screw that held down one side of the motor. We where using a Super Chief DCC with speed steep of 128, engine did not start moving till step 38. Sound was fine but the engine moved, stalled, moved, stalled and moved. At a higher setting jerks where gone (not counting me) sound was fine till I blew the whistle. It was much quieter than normal, it was a quick blast. Then I held the button down and got a hoot, HOOT, hoot, HOOT, hoot, HOOT. Normally that is a sign of a over load, am I right?

Whistle did the same thing with the engine not moving as well?

 Couple weeks ago before I installed the body I spun the flywheel and wheels did spin with out binding. Sunday I will pull the body again and double check. When routing the head light wires I did pinch them under the boiler (side question, how do you get the plug thought that small a-s hole anyway? First harness I cut the wires and solder) I don't see any bare wire, then I notched the plate that connects the cylinders so the wires are not being pinched.

 Beside the headlight wires only thing I am unsure of is the red wire from the board. It screws to the chassis under the motor. There is a red pieces of cardboard (for lack of a better terms) that I assume isolates the motor from the red wire that is screwed to the chassis. Installed the red wire with the screw, then red cardoard thing then the motor. Does that seem right?

 I will up date Sunday, will try running the engine with engine and tender shell off. Any ideas are welcome, and the wheels are clean!

 I wil ask one favor besides tips on the repair. Please don't point out to me I am hard on engines again. I all reday know that!

                      Cuda Ken 

I hate Rust

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 3,312 posts
Posted by locoi1sa on Saturday, November 29, 2008 7:43 PM

 Cuda

 Could the cardboard be a shim to space the worm gear and top idler gear? Could be the bind you are getting is not enough space (lash) between both gears.Loosen the motor screws and see if it runs smoother.

    Pete

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Maryville IL
  • 9,577 posts
Posted by cudaken on Saturday, November 29, 2008 7:55 PM

 Pete, as a shime I would think rather it be installed first or second after the red wire screw it would make up the same spaces. What do you think Pete?

 Thanks for the answer as well.

I hate Rust

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