Trouble on the mainline

[modelalaska]

 

Hi all,

Got some serious buckling on the mainline. 

 

I just got done laying the track (Walthers Shinohara Cod 83) this summer.  Now this it is colder up this way it seams the track is moving around.  Though it is puzzling in that the track seems to be buckling from expansion rather that pulling in from contraction.  In any case, this confirms my thoughts on the Shinohara track… it sucks.  I have Atlas code 80 (n-scale) in the same area over the last four years have not had it move hardly at all.

There are three areas that have lifted and about two feet of track affected.  Looks like I got some work to do.  To prevent this from happening again, I think I will use Atlas code 83 track.  Any other suggestions?

Peter

 

[mainetrains]

HO Scale earthquake?

 Mainetrains

[WSOR 3801]

 Isn't that what happens to the 1:1 scale track up there?  Might have to cut a little out. 

[rrinker]

 What is the underlying structure? There aren't too many metals that expand as the cool, it's far more likely that the cooler and DRIER air has shrunk the underlying structure. It looks liek you have foam, is it extruded foam insualtion? That hardly moves with temperature/humidity changes, but if you built it on top of wood supports..

                                 --Randy

 

[Don Gibson]

1.. You'll probabbly need to replace  all bent trackwork to prevent future problems.

2. Use ATlas if you wish, but  this time.leave expansion gaps between tracks ends (business card is a recommended distance).

3. CHECK all thrack  for needed 'Expansion gaps..

4. Use AtlasI if you wish, but but i'm guessing i'theproblem is track installation, and a different brand/ style is not the answer. Metal expands withe temperature, Wood looses moisture and contracts. Take your pick.

 

[dehusman]

modelalaska

I just got done laying the track (Walthers Shinohara Cod 83) this summer.  Now this it is colder up this way it seams the track is moving around.  Though it is puzzling in that the track seems to be buckling from expansion rather that pulling in from contraction. 

That's because the track isn't expanding.  The BENCHWORK is contracting, probably in the colder, less humid air the benchwork is shrinking and the rail is not (as much).

There are three areas that have lifted and about two feet of track affected.  Looks like I got some work to do.  To prevent this from happening again, I think I will use Atlas code 83 track.  Any other suggestions?

The problem is probably due to the Atlas track being able to slide around in the ties, doesn't bind up as much, while the Shinohara being tighter in the ties, won't allow the rail ro move.  The solution is to allow some expansion joints in the track.

[selector]

Just file or nip 1/16" from the ends of one length of rail and refasten them with new joiners.  You should be fine. Later, though, you may have to add some styrene gap fillers if they pull apart as the bench expands in the warmer/more humid months.

[modelalaska]

 

Thanks for the comments thus far.  The track is lying on cork which is lying on 1.5” extruded foam.  The track is all joined and soldered together for DCC operations just like the Atlas track.  If I had gaps I would likely have to have feeder wires on every section of flex track, right?  My experience with the Atlas track was that if I didn’t solder, I had either bad operations or I had to add more feeder wires (and that is with “gleamed” track).  In the end, I just solder it all.

One thing I like about the Atlas track is that is have thick, strong ties.  The Walther’s track has thin and flimsy ties.  I figure that is where the problem lies.

 Peter

[Johnnny_reb]

rrinker

 What is the underlying structure? There aren't too many metals that expand as the cool, it's far more likely that the cooler and DRIER air has shrunk the underlying structure. It looks liek you have foam, is it extruded foam insualtion? That hardly moves with temperature/humidity changes, but if you built it on top of wood supports..

                                 --Randy

Randy I think you hit the nail on the head as he lives in "Alaska". The temperature / humidity changes from summer to winter in the area would account for such extreme changes in both. In that environment I would think that by not having gaps in the winter would let the layout expand in the summer leaving some small gaps to deal with but let the benchwork contract in the winter without the buckling. To me I would either relay the offending sections of track or cut small gaps in the existing track to let them relax by giving them room to expand while the benchwork shrinks slightly. And see how much it opens up the gaps in the summer as the benchwork expands.     

[loathar]

Interesting...In the winter, my bench work contracts and causes gaps in my rails.(I know THAT doesn't make sense, bit it's what happens)  My buckling problems only happened in really hot, humid summer weather.

Cut the extra track out now and don't leave any gaps. If you leave gaps now, they will open up too big when your weather swings back the other way. I try not to lay track in cold weather.

Shinohara SUCKS??? First time I've heard that one.

[Johnnny_reb]

loathar

Interesting...In the winter, my bench work contracts and causes gaps in my rails.(I know THAT doesn't make sense, bit it's what happens)  My buckling problems only happened in really hot, humid summer weather.

Cut the extra track out now and don't leave any gaps. If you leave gaps now, they will open up too big when your weather swings back the other way. I try not to lay track in cold weather.

Shinohara SUCKS??? First time I've heard that one.

That’s exactly what I was thinking. But I know that the driest place in winter is the cold far north. As the benchwork dries out and shrinks the track does this at a slower rate. So by cutting only the gaps needed to let the track lay flat again it should not cause it to have overly large gaps in the summer as the benchwork expanse when the summer humidity returns.

Edit: I will say that in the lower 48 we have cold wet winter’s not cold dry winters. So normally for most us the humidity goes up not down or not down too far. A case in  point is if you have house plants and you have to water them more in the winter then you do in summer your house is drier in winter then summer. It all depends on how dry as to the effect it has on your benchwork.

[lvanhen]

Maybe one of your little mosquitos got under the track?