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In the upper right where the "loop" crosses the other three tracks, you have a number of options. It looks like the curve continues from the top over at least the first track. It is possible to have curved track on a bridge, but beware the clearances!! You will need to make the bridge wider than normal to handle the curve and car/loco overhang, especially if it is a "through" type bridge - that is a bridge with sides above the track. A "deck" type bridge has no sides, but will still need to wider than normal to accomodate the curve. In this case, you stop your cork at the point were the bridge starts. If you don't want to worry too much about proper bridge track with the closely spaced ties, you can do a ballasted deck bridge. You would build a bridge like a concrete culvert (for instance) and run the track right across, including cork, ballast, and so on. As for the slope leading up to the bridge... you can put it on piers if you want, or you can use something like Woodland Scenics risers to make a grade. They come in 2, 3 and 4% I think. Go for as shallow a grade as possible. You can fill in with landscaping, or run a retaining wall along both sides, or whatever to disguise the riser. If you want to try something different, try putting this track in a cut or tunnel UNDER the other tracks. If you plan to operate, reaching over/around a bridge (or three) can be a pain, and often means wrecked scenery or other stuff. If you try a tunnel, you can start going down on the outside loop just after it passes the yard, and come up on the inside loop just after the last crossing (assuming clockwise running). That way your yard and the siding are at the same level, and the "mainline" makes a gradual decent and climb - easy on the engine(s). Anyway, just some thoughts. Hope it helps. Andrew
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