Boxcar weight problem

[Blind Bruce]

I have a few HO boxcars blueprint series by Branchline trains. They each weigh 3 Oz. They are 6 In. long so should weigh 4 Oz. ( 1 Oz. plus 1/2 Oz. per inch)

The doors do not open and the roof and body are glued on. The underbody has a lot of details.

This is a significant weight loss of 25%.

How would you add the extra ounce?

[jcopilot]

I've used lead shot (used in reloading shotgun shells) poured into the center channel of some underframes. It comes in different sizes, can be smashed to fit in tight places and can be fixed in place with tacky glue.
Underbody detail is nice, but do you really see it?
jcopilot

[twhite]

Bruce--

If the center-beam lead shot won't work for you, believe it or not, you might try replacing the Branchline wheels with Intermountain 33" metal wheelsets--they're 'heavier' than most metal wheelsets, and might prove to partially add that 1oz you need.  And besides that, they roll a HECK of a lot better than the Branchline wheelsets.  I've replaced just about all of my Branchline cars with Intermountains, and there's QUITE a difference in rolling quality. 

Tom

[dehusman]

Replace the plastic trucks with metal trucks with metal wheelsets.  Put lead shot or lengths of solder in the center sill.  If it still isn't close, wrap solder around the axles of the car.

Dave H.

[Don Gibson]

1. get JB or NWSL metal wheels - better yet metal wheels & trucks - to add unsprung weight (best). 'Machined' solid wheels are heavier.

2. add any remaining weight to underframe where you wont see it - unlees you turn it upside down.

3. If you are within 1/2 oz. of NMRA you should be OK. (If not, you can always add more).

Best rolling trucks I've found are E&B - with machined brass & sprung wheels.

http://www.greenwayproducts.com/a_brass_not_trucks.shtml

Scoll down to E & B

[cowman]

I  have seen several threads on car weights.  There are usually one or two that say that with newer/better types of trucks and wheelsets available they don't need to be as heavy as the NMRA standards to work well.

My suggestion would be try them out and see how well they do.  If they don't have problems you can save yourself time and money.  As mentioned in some of the comments above there are different quality trucks and wheelsets, probably all better than when the standards were made.

Good luck,

[loathar]

Ditto^  Are they giving you problems?? If not, don't bother. I only add weight to cars that are giving me problems.

[Blind Bruce]

All good ideas folks. I just looked at the cars and discovered that they already have machined brass wheels but they have plastic sideframes.

Would the intermountain or other brands weigh more than these?

[Knowcents]

You could always use moldable lead to weight the cars. You amy have already thought of this so I may just be typing for no reason.

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I have several cars that were too light and is was virtually impossible to get weight into them without performing some major surgery on them. They also have a lot of underside detail, for what reason I don't know, you can't see it unless the cars are turned over. One is a depressed center flat with a transformer load. I packed Roseart modeling clay into the underside detail of the car and also packed the transformer load with clay until the car was the weight specified by the NMRA standards. On another flatcar I simply packed the underside of it with clay as on the previous car. It still needed some extra weight so I took apart a track hoe and a small bull dozer, put some lead shot into them then reassembled them and glued them to the cars deck. On a boxcar that couldn't be opened and on which I couldn't even find a seam I used the clay and lead shot again. I put the lead shot into areas that I could then pack the clay into. I also added a little glue to make sure it stayed put. Maybe you can do the same?

[twhite]

Question on the Branchline boxcars?  Are these RTR cars?  Because I built all of mine from kits, and they all have options for making the doors operational.  All of mine weigh about 3oz--under the NMRA standards, and by replacing their metal wheelsets with the heavier Intermountains, I've been able to run them anywhere in a train that I choose.  One thing I found with the Branchline wheelsets, is that very often one or more of the sets is out of gauge.  Their 'weight' is simply two large 1-1/2 oz lug-nuts that are secured at either end on the inside of the car.  At least on my kits.   

I'm surprised that the RTR's would come with non-operational doors. 

Tom

[Blind Bruce]

Well fellas, yes, they are RTR's and are definitely sealed doors. I can see the underbody details from the side so, here is what I have done , good or bad.

I drilled a 1/8" hole through the center of the car directly under the rear axle of one of the trucks. I cut 1" lengths of 1/8" solid core solder and dropped them into the car. I shook the pieces to distribute them evenly and voila! The one I did runs great over my most troublesome track. You cannot tell I modified it even if you turn the car over.

Shall I do the others?

[claycts]

Well fellas, yes, they are RTR's and are definitely sealed doors. I can see the underbody details from the side so, here is what I have done , good or bad.

I drilled a 1/8" hole through the center of the car directly under the rear axle of one of the trucks. I cut 1" lengths of 1/8" solid core solder and dropped them into the car. I shook the pieces to distribute them evenly and voila! The one I did runs great over my most troublesome track. You cannot tell I modified it even if you turn the car over.

Shall I do the others?

If you are happy then do it if you think it is the answer. I have about 30 of the Branch lines in kit and RTR and all I did was change the wheels and they going anyplace I send them.

FYI, some of the PLASTIC wheels are NOT round or the center hole is not in the center. That is the BEST reason to change wheel sets. Not to mention cleaner track.

[BRAKIE]

I have a few HO boxcars blueprint series by Branchline trains. They each weigh 3 Oz. They are 6 In. long so should weigh 4 Oz. ( 1 Oz. plus 1/2 Oz. per inch)

The doors do not open and the roof and body are glued on. The underbody has a lot of details.

This is a significant weight loss of 25%.

How would you add the extra ounce?

Simply put I wouldn't worry about it..RP20.1 has been outdated for years-unless one is still building the old wooden car kits of the 50s that didn't come with weight.

[Autobus Prime]

Well fellas, yes, they are RTR's and are definitely sealed doors. I can see the underbody details from the side so, here is what I have done , good or bad.

I drilled a 1/8" hole through the center of the car directly under the rear axle of one of the trucks. I cut 1" lengths of 1/8" solid core solder and dropped them into the car. I shook the pieces to distribute them evenly and voila! The one I did runs great over my most troublesome track. You cannot tell I modified it even if you turn the car over.

Shall I do the others?

BB:

Make 2, shake them, and you've got car maracas. Caracas?
We could start a band, and call it "Los Chupacabras". That would be a great name.


I like using pennies for weight. They cost pennies. This only works if you can open the car, of course. The way I see it, Weight is Good, if the engine can handle it, and if it can't, well, get a bigger engine. The NMRA standards may seem too heavy to some, but if they help compensate for less-than-ideal situations in this gremlin-infested world, that's a Good Thing. Gravity is our inexplicable friend; it just wants to help.

[wjstix]

Just a thought - did you try removing the body from the "chassis" (frame/underbody etc.)?? I guess it might be glued together, but it might just snap apart, or it might be held together by the screws that hold on the couplers.

That way you could glue some weights inside the car where it wouldn't be seen.