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Medicine Cabinet Weathering

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Medicine Cabinet Weathering
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 3:01 PM
So anyway I remember somebody telling me that 90% isopropyl alc. will get rid of soem overweathering I did on a proto 2k loco with tamiya paint. So I found some rubbing alc. (or whatever it was) I believe about 70% in my medicine cabinet and it took to paint off without much damage to the paint underneath. So I get the idea that Im going to build then weather 3 new CN 1937 40' box cars (branchline) I had got earlier that day. After I had built them I had found I had nothing to weather them with...so I look towards the iso 70% and will not go back to pastels and chalks for fading. I applied the stuff with cottonballs then wiped it off and whatta great faded look it achieved. I intend to try it on most of my older rolling stock.

Do you have any amazing around the house solutions? Windex? Chocolate Milk?
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Posted by Jetrock on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 3:12 PM
Try a little iodine for rust effects...just be careful, too much cough syrup can impede one's ability to judge proper levels of weathering!!
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 3:17 PM
iodine eh, I have these model metal alluminum coloured roofing that just wont rust. I used an etchant or soemthing like that from my dads work and it still didnt work...
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Posted by MAbruce on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 3:22 PM
I’ve tried wiping 90 percent Isopropyl alcohol over a car that has already been treated with Testors Dull Coate. It produces a chalked out effect. However, I have not been able to use it with consistent results. Sometimes it chalks out the entire panel, while other times only a small section of the panel. Not sure how to better control the reaction.
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Posted by areibel on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 3:23 PM
Just be careful! 90% isopropyl (the red label stuff at Wally World) is what I use to strip paint off of plastic shells, it does a wonderful job. If you get too crazy with it, it'll take all the paint off.
Some guys add a couple drops of black ink to some alcohol and use it for a wash over wood to darken it down, not sure how it would work on plastic?
Cambridge Springs- Halfway from New York to Chicago on the Erie Lackawanna!
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Posted by dharmon on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 3:24 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Jetrock

Try a little iodine for rust effects...just be careful, too much cough syrup can impede one's ability to judge proper levels of weathering!!



A couple of Oxycontin later and you won't care either..........

Be careful with the alcohol...unknowingly getting it on your fingers may leave fingerprints in the paint where you did not intend them.....so I've heard.....that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 3:27 PM
yes I had a similar problem with the alc. but with 70% you can keep going over it again and again until its perfect each wipe takes away the imperfections of the previouse wipe
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Posted by Jetrock on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 10:06 PM
If you're having a problem with alcohol I'd recommend AA...
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Posted by lupo on Wednesday, February 18, 2004 12:56 AM
a wash with water with some drops of black ink in it makes all moulded-in detail stand out a lot more.
L [censored] O
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 18, 2004 6:28 AM

2% peroxide makes a pretty good weathered wood effect. You can also use alcohol and sepia colored ink to make a brown wash.

Randy
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 18, 2004 7:27 AM
I don't even build Medicine Cabinets in my HO scale residential building, let alone weather them!
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Posted by areibel on Wednesday, February 18, 2004 1:54 PM
What! No HO medicine cabinets?? Where do your people keep their Tylenol, their rubbing alcohol and peroxide bottles (for weathering THEIR models), etc??
Don't laugh, I remember one time on rec.models.railroad someone asking about what to use for HO window screen!
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Posted by Jetrock on Wednesday, February 18, 2004 2:22 PM
Bits of nylon stocking, preferably in a gray color.

A medicine cabinet in HO scale would be pretty simple--a little rectangle of wood or styrene with either some silver paint or a bit of aluminum foil glued to one side.
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 18, 2004 2:31 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by deschane

I don't even build Medicine Cabinets in my HO scale residential building, let alone weather them!

QUOTE: Originally posted by Jetrock

If you're having a problem with alcohol I'd recommend AA...




everyones a comedian
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 18, 2004 4:15 PM
Latest NScale Magazine Bob Hundman was talking about N Scale wire mesh for a screen porch.

QUOTE: Originally posted by areibel

What! No HO medicine cabinets?? Where do your people keep their Tylenol, their rubbing alcohol and peroxide bottles (for weathering THEIR models), etc??
Don't laugh, I remember one time on rec.models.railroad someone asking about what to use for HO window screen!

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Posted by on30francisco on Tuesday, September 21, 2004 10:58 PM
I use isopropyl alcohol (3oz) with a few drops of india ink or black leather dye to weather wood and as a wa***o tone down a paint job. You can mix a little brown leather dye in the mixture for a softer weathered look. The best thing is that this mixture is very inexpensive and easy to work with compared to some commercial weathering products.
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Posted by tatans on Wednesday, September 22, 2004 9:34 PM
70% isopropyl alcohol is all you can buy in Canada, anything above 70% I believe, can only be bought with a permit and is soon to be banned, my pharmacist said its used in the drug trade (illegal) the 70% works fine, it just takes a little longer to remove paint.
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, September 22, 2004 11:30 PM
I've used straight alcohol to weather cars before. I got the idea from th article about renumbering the BN loco in one of the issue. It gives thepaint a real nice faded look.
Andrew
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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Thursday, September 23, 2004 1:55 PM
Great tips guys!

Don't forget though to use latex gloves, especially if you are tinting alcohol with paint. This will keep you safer as the "palm side" of your hands and fingers absorb chemicals rapidly. The gloves will also eliminate the "finger print" problem DHarmon is describing.

Cheers and High Greens![swg][tup]

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


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Posted by CBQ_Guy on Friday, September 24, 2004 1:40 AM
I needed some white chalk for weathering and didn't have any I could find. So I used talcum powder.

Nice smell, too!
"Paul [Kossart] - The CB&Q Guy" [In Illinois] ~ Modeling the CB&Q and its fictional 'Illiniwek River-Subdivision-Branch Line' in the 1960's. ~
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, September 24, 2004 8:02 AM
QUOTE: iodine eh, I have these model metal alluminum coloured roofing that just wont rust. I used an etchant or soemthing like that from my dads work and it still didnt work...


I used the same stuff on my sawmill roofing. If you brush some floquil rust on it after treating it with the etchant, if gives it a real nice, badly weathered look.
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Posted by darth9x9 on Thursday, September 30, 2004 1:32 PM
I use Windex to soften up lettering before using an eraser to remove numbers so they can be renumbered.

BC

Bill Carl (modeling Chessie and predecessors from 1973-1983)
Member of Four County Society of Model Engineers
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Visit the FCSME at www.FCSME.org
Modular railroading at its best!
If it has an X in it, it sucks! And yes, I just had my modeler's license renewed last week!

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