I recently acquired a blue box P2K GP9-II. It wouldn't run under DC at all initially, but after helping the fly wheels turn a bit they freed up and it ran fine for 10 minutes or so. After running at break-in speeds of 20% to 40% power it started to develop a slight wine or perhaps a slight rubbing noise at 20% power or more. The wine increases with power and almost resembles the sound of a trumpeting elephant at 40% power or more.
Any ideas if something may require adjusting or possibly lubrication? Should I stop running this engine unitl I correct this for fear I may be damaging something? Or is this something that could improve after the break-in period? I don't believe it resembles the sound described in this forums threads about the gear issue. Am I wrong? Thanks in advance for any feedback.
sounds like it needs new brushes. don't run it or it will damage the motor. I'm assuming this is an old used blue box diesel.
Artur wrote:sounds like it needs new brushes. don't run it or it will damage the motor.
I forgot to mention that I believe the engine to be unused previously (old perhaps, but appears unused). Could the brushes really be bad? Is that an expensive and/or difficult thing to correct for a novice? Should I attempt to return it?
you can check what condition the brushes are by pulling off the copper strip under the long contact bar there is another one on the bottom side of the engine, but be careful there is a spring and it likes to fly out. the brushes look like pencil lead if they are worn out I can send you new ones. but first diconnect the drive shafts and see how the motor runs.
First, the expression "blue box" refers to old Athearn kits, although admittedly the P2K boxes are sort of blue-gray. Secondly, the problem seems to be the well-documented "cracked axle" issue. Just during the last week, I tested 3 P2K GP9-II's. You pop off the cover that covers the trucks from below. Then you take out an axle and test if you can turn the wheels in the opposite directions. If not (without using excessive force), the axle is good; if you can turn the wheels in opposite directions, the axle is cracked. My result was: 7 out of 12 cracked. Walthers, who now owns Life-Like (and P2K) will send you, under certain conditions (like having a receipt from an authorized Walthers dealer and sending the cracked axles back), replacement axles under warranty. I did not bother to search for my old receipts; instead, you can order them for $3 for two axles (plus S/H); Walthers order# is 922-584408. Replacement axles are also available from other suppliers.
Hope this helps
JW
Walthers waranty only covers original purchaser. I just did the same thing with a second hand GP9. It was brand new the box still had the tape on the flaps. 2 axles were cracked. My first P2K GP9 had the same problem. I switched trucks with an old Athearn blue box F7 and she runs like a Swiss watch. Some P2K locos had motor problems that drew too many amps and blew up some decoders. If you have an ameter check the motor first then check axles. Cracked axles will make a clicking noise and the truck will jump.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
The P2K GP9 Ph2 engines are from the late 90's. If this is 'new in the box', then you need to do some up front work. A little plastic compatible lubrication(oil on the bearings/grease on the gears) is in order. Clean out the old factory grease gunk that has been their for years, and use something like Labelle lube. The motor brushes are good if this is a new unit. A shot of spray tuner cleaner should de-oxidize them. The 'whine' should now be gone.
When you have the gearbox in the trucks apart, check the gears. Remove each axle. If you can 'rotate' the gear while holding the wheel - you have a cracked axle. That is the 'clicking' or 'thumping' you might have heard. If this was a new purchase - get hold of Walthers and they will ship you new axles/gears. As others have mentioned, Walther will sell you the complete axle/gear or the Athearn one will work as well.
I have 10 P2K GP7 or GP7 units and I have gone through about 10-11 gears in the past 10+ years. The replacements have never failed. The engines run great, and the paint jobs are 1st class. I use the DH163L0 decoder in my new ones, and the DH163D 'wired' decoder in my older 'Pre-DCC' engines(GP9 Ph3).
Jim Bernier
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I've had clicking, whining, screeching (take cover!) and non-moving P2K GP9s.
ALL were remedied by replacing the axles.
The noise you are hearing apears to be a caused from something or many things that need cleaned and lubed. That happens sometimes even when loco's just sit around. You also might want to inspect it and make sure nothing is rubbing also.
If you are going to go through the loco and clean and lube it, as the other person posted, check the gears for cracks on the drive wheels. Sometimes they don't appear until they have been run for sometime. If you get it running well and it starts to make a "click, click, click", you might have cracked gears or a gear.
I always like the older P2k's, I have several of them, they were good runners, and some owners had allot of problems with the cracked gears, but I always thought they were nice.
I have heard the BB term before, it does get confused with the Athearn sometimes. The older generation box was not gold at all, more like a brown, green color. Not very nice looking, I have several of these sitting on the shelves and always wondered why LL made them in this funny looking color.
In my case, I'd describe the sound more as a "thump, thump, thump" than a clicking noise, but maybe that's just a function of the layout roadbed.
Just last week I wrote to Walthers and explained that I had several of these units that needed replacement axles. I got an automated reply acknowledging my email, but haven't heard anything else. I'm hoping that since I provided my address, they'll just send the things straight away.
The old P2K FA units seem to have similar problems, as I discovered this weekend. These go back to - what - early 90s? I seem to have rectified the problem with CA.
Cheers.
TA462 - re FA unit geared axles - good idea. I'll do just that.
Cheers
Jim,
What is the "spray tuner" you mention?
Phil
jrbernier wrote: The P2K GP9 Ph2 engines are from the late 90's. If this is 'new in the box', then you need to do some up front work. A little plastic compatible lubrication(oil on the bearings/grease on the gears) is in order. Clean out the old factory grease gunk that has been their for years, and use something like Labelle lube. The motor brushes are good if this is a new unit. A shot of spray tuner cleaner should de-oxidize them. The 'whine' should now be gone. When you have the gearbox in the trucks apart, check the gears. Remove each axle. If you can 'rotate' the gear while holding the wheel - you have a cracked axle. That is the 'clicking' or 'thumping' you might have heard. If this was a new purchase - get hold of Walthers and they will ship you new axles/gears. As others have mentioned, Walther will sell you the complete axle/gear or the Athearn one will work as well. I have 10 P2K GP7 or GP7 units and I have gone through about 10-11 gears in the past 10+ years. The replacements have never failed. The engines run great, and the paint jobs are 1st class. I use the DH163L0 decoder in my new ones, and the DH163D 'wired' decoder in my older 'Pre-DCC' engines(GP9 Ph3).Jim Bernier
Hi Phil,
The best electrical tune-up lubricant and probably most popular is a product made by CRC.
It is called Electrical Grade 2-26. You should be able to find it at any good Automotive parts supplier or at an Electrical supply house or even at Lowes or Home Depot as long as you are Stateside. Home Depot in Canada, at least in my area doesn't stock it. It is good stuff, I wouldn't be without it.
Good Luck and Good Hunting.
Johnboy out......................
from Saskatchewan, in the Great White North..
We have met the enemy, and he is us............ (Pogo)
Sounds like something one of my GP9-I does. It makes a kind of whirring noise when slowing down from high-speed to a stop, and occasionally when accelerating fast or in the top 20% of the voltage. The other one doesn't, and I got both new. But I don't really care since I rarely ever do any of that stuff.
The noise seems to subside when it's used alot, but always comes back for a little bit.
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.