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Wiring spurs off a passing siding

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Wiring spurs off a passing siding
Posted by jacon12 on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 12:30 PM

In my diagram below the mainline is at the top, tracks 1 and 2.  I have those tracks wired as shown but I'm not sure how the other (numbered) tracks should be wired.  If someone could supply the answer OR send me to a website with the information, I'd appreciate it!

The turnouts are Peco Insulfrog and I would like to have the siding and spurs 'live' at all times.

Thanks!

Jarrell

 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
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Posted by ndbprr on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 1:08 PM
Assuming this is Dc (and it is probably the same for DCC) I would put insulated rail joiners between the the two sets of turnouts that control the access to the passing siding.  You may also want to do the same thing on the main between the turnouts so that can be a separate block.  Then you want to place your leads to the right of your #10 on your sketch for the pasing siding.  That way one set picks up the passing track and the spurs with no shorts devleoping when they are thrown.
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Posted by Texas Zepher on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 2:02 PM

 jacon12 wrote:
In my diagram below
This is not showing to me, it says "password protected image"

the mainline is at the top, tracks 1 and 2.  I have those tracks wired as shown but I'm not sure how the other (numbered) tracks should be wired.
Even though I can't see the diagram the answer to this depends on what type of turnouts are being used and what behavior is desired on the tracks.  Do you want trains on the side tracks to be dead when there is a train using the main?  Do you want them powered all the time?  Do you want them to short just before they broadside a train on the main.....

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Posted by jacon12 on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 2:10 PM

Sorry about that photo, Tex.  I've corrected it and added information about the turnouts etc to the original message above.

Thanks for any info!

Jarrell

 

 

 Texas Zepher wrote:

 jacon12 wrote:
In my diagram below
This is not showing to me, it says "password protected image"

the mainline is at the top, tracks 1 and 2.  I have those tracks wired as shown but I'm not sure how the other (numbered) tracks should be wired.
Even though I can't see the diagram the answer to this depends on what type of turnouts are being used and what behavior is desired on the tracks.  Do you want trains on the side tracks to be dead when there is a train using the main?  Do you want them powered all the time?  Do you want them to short just before they broadside a train on the main.....

 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
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Posted by selector on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 2:32 PM
I would place insulating gaps at the very ends of every one of those turnouts, and then run a set of feeds up to the individual lengths of track between them/after them.  There is no reversing that I can see, so just keep the right wires to all the right tracks and you should be fine.  Your turnouts are likely to route the power anyway...but..
  • Member since
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Posted by jacon12 on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 4:24 PM

 Thanks for the reply, Selector.  I felt that using the right (side) wires to the right (side) tracks was the way to go but I'm not sure about those 'innner' turnouts, the ones that come off the passing track, i.e. not connected to the mainline.

Jarrell 

 

 selector wrote:
I would place insulating gaps at the very ends of every one of those turnouts, and then run a set of feeds up to the individual lengths of track between them/after them.  There is no reversing that I can see, so just keep the right wires to all the right tracks and you should be fine.  Your turnouts are likely to route the power anyway...but..

 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
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Posted by selector on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 4:55 PM

It's all the same, Jarrell.  Think of it from the point of view of two fellas standing on the running boards of a steamer, the ones on either side of the boiler.  In this case, they are mindful of electrical mines and are watching that the drivers on each of their sides are not going to encounter them.

The mines comprise rails that have the opposite "polarity", or the wrong wire going to them compared to the wires that power the rails currently occupied by the engine.  At no time should the engine encounter such an opposing rail if it is being powered for movement.  As soon as even one of the powered axle wheels contacts a rail that doesn't match the other wheels' orientation on that side of the engine, zappp..phzzzt!  So, since the engine can't bend like a noodle, it keeps its wheels always oriented to the power it should get up each side of it.  That is all you have to keep straight as you wire.  Lay a length of rail stock over a series of turnouts and wire whatever is under each rail with the same side of the bus, or same side of the feeders.  It doesn't matter whether you have a turnout with the points coming at you or one of the two routes after the frog.  Just don't let the powered axles meet two different types of polarity.

BTW, that is the problem with the Peco turnouts.  They leave a mine for the engine to encounter right at the point where the frog rails meet to form their V-shaped point.  Even though they have isolated the frog with the tiny black plastic spacer, the width of the engine's wheels allows some longer engines' middle blind drivers, or extra wide ones, to actually cover the gap between the two separated frog rails, which completes an unintended circuit betwen two rails that are meant to not touch each other...but effectively do with the help of that darned wide driver tire.  That is why some folks cut a gap in one of the rails just outward of that plastic spacer to deaden a longer section and to prevent the bridging.  Or, they paint 1/2" of one both rails outward of the spacer to keep the drivers off the metal until the gap is so wide between the rapidly diverging rails that the drivers can't cross it.

I hope that is helpful.

Pretend to stand in the middle of your main line, and orient yourself with the right and left rails.  As you diverge anywhere, you can still turn that many degrees and still call one side the left and right rails.  So, wire accordingly.  Just make sure your right rails always get the same power side of the bus or terminal, or colour of feeders if you are keeping them straight that way.

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Posted by jacon12 on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 6:57 PM

 I think I got it. 

Thanks,

Jarrell 

 

 

 selector wrote:

It's all the same, Jarrell.  Think of it from the point of view of two fellas standing on the running boards of a steamer, the ones on either side of the boiler.  In this case, they are mindful of electrical mines and are watching that the drivers on each of their sides are not going to encounter them.

The mines comprise rails that have the opposite "polarity", or the wrong wire going to them compared to the wires that power the rails currently occupied by the engine.  At no time should the engine encounter such an opposing rail if it is being powered for movement.  As soon as even one of the powered axle wheels contacts a rail that doesn't match the other wheels' orientation on that side of the engine, zappp..phzzzt!  So, since the engine can't bend like a noodle, it keeps its wheels always oriented to the power it should get up each side of it.  That is all you have to keep straight as you wire.  Lay a length of rail stock over a series of turnouts and wire whatever is under each rail with the same side of the bus, or same side of the feeders.  It doesn't matter whether you have a turnout with the points coming at you or one of the two routes after the frog.  Just don't let the powered axles meet two different types of polarity.

BTW, that is the problem with the Peco turnouts.  They leave a mine for the engine to encounter right at the point where the frog rails meet to form their V-shaped point.  Even though they have isolated the frog with the tiny black plastic spacer, the width of the engine's wheels allows some longer engines' middle blind drivers, or extra wide ones, to actually cover the gap between the two separated frog rails, which completes an unintended circuit betwen two rails that are meant to not touch each other...but effectively do with the help of that darned wide driver tire.  That is why some folks cut a gap in one of the rails just outward of that plastic spacer to deaden a longer section and to prevent the bridging.  Or, they paint 1/2" of one both rails outward of the spacer to keep the drivers off the metal until the gap is so wide between the rapidly diverging rails that the drivers can't cross it.

I hope that is helpful.

Pretend to stand in the middle of your main line, and orient yourself with the right and left rails.  As you diverge anywhere, you can still turn that many degrees and still call one side the left and right rails.  So, wire accordingly.  Just make sure your right rails always get the same power side of the bus or terminal, or colour of feeders if you are keeping them straight that way.

 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
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Posted by Don Gibson on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 8:11 PM

INSULFROGS are non-polarized, but frog rails aren't. Beware.

1. Feed all turnouts from the points.  2. Passing track (10?) becomes a 'crossover' so insulate BOTH rails BETWEEN turnouts and treat it like a REVERSING TRACK - separate DPDT switch. (

Peco Spurs will 'route' with throw (good).  - but to keep spurs "live at all times"  substitute Walthers, MICRO-Engineering, or Atlas turnouts, here.

The turnouts are Peco Insulfrog and I would like to have the siding and spurs 'live' at all times *
.   OK, but why?

Renumber your turnouts, show insulated joiners, and add arrows for wires RED & BLACK.

Don Gibson .............. ________ _______ I I__()____||__| ||||| I / I ((|__|----------| | |||||||||| I ______ I // o--O O O O-----o o OO-------OO ###########################
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Posted by Texas Zepher on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 10:28 PM

To leave all the tracks powered all the time. 

Red wire to 1, 7, 9, 11, 13
Black wire to 2, 8, 10  and the rail on the main line right above #9 (otherwise this section will be dead if both turnouts are set for the siding).

should do it. 

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