Hi everyone.
Once again I'm here with a question. Having seen a nice wood trestle in another thread I decided to finally go ahead and build one. Now, the emphasize is on BUILD. Basically i want to do as much as possible. So, if ordering from walthers, what would be a good supply of wood and what do I use to attach them. What glue is the best? Also, are their any complete kits that still need a loot of work. i would like this to be a centerpiece on my next layout and I want the pride of building it my self.
Magnus
Also, do anyone know a source for plans on how to build one?
What radius is this http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/345-2016
Lillen wrote: Also, do anyone know a source for plans on how to build one?What radius is this http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/345-2016 Magnus
According to their website it can be built to any radius even straight or S curved
http://www.jvmodels.biz/ho_scale_models.htm
TerryinTexas
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http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
Thanks for the link and the info. That's great, a lot of bridge and a lot of work for not that much money. Have anyone here tried building one? How much do you have to do your self?
Magnus:
I built my "Long Bridge Trestle" completely from scratch, except for a jig for the spacing (which I purchased), a jig I made from a hard curing type of clay for consistency with assembly of the bents, a lot of strip-wood and glue!
I'll try to put together a "HOW" with a picture or two...But for the most part, it's all in your imagination unless you are trying to build a scale model of a prototype.
I'm sure I made a few mistakes and could have done a better job (bolt castings and the like) but OTOH it was a first attempt, its WAY back against the backdrop and it turned out pretty darn good.
loathar wrote:One tip I was told is to pre stain all the wood. Stain doesn't like to stick to glue after it's assembled.
Oh So True
I learned the hard way
Get your self a stain pen and prestain all the wood before you cut and glue
These are easy to use no muss no fuss when done just replace the cap !
Sold at all the DIY and hardware stores
Magnus,
I built two trestles from scratch, just to see how they'd look, before I built one to actually put on a layout.
I model in N scale, but the principles are the same regardless of scale.
I made a drawing of the bent structure on a sheet of styrene, then laid a piece of the wood to be used for the pilings in place and used small styrene strips, glued down as guides.
Here are two templates I made, with the finished bent sections.
The holes you see in the template are there to prevent gluing the wood to the template, I discovered the need for the holes after my first attempt. For glue, I used gap filling AC (Super glue).
As mentioned in earlier posts, stain or paint the wood before construction to get a good finish. It also helps seal the wood and prevents the AC from soaking into it. When assembling, small amounts of glue work better than large amounts. I tested the strength of one two bent section of the trestle. It supported two ten pound test weights. For your HO trestle, you could drill the bracing for insertion of Grandt Line bolts, to give it a more authenic appearance.
A good source of information is Bridges & Trestles, Model Railroad Handbook No. 33, from Kalmbach. It has everything you ever wanted to know about the subject and some things you might not.
Here is the doulble track trestle I built for my neighbor's N scale layout.
Micro Engineering makes flex track with the correct tie spacing with guard beams and guard rails for the trestle. The track also comes with platforms and water barrels. I didn't use these on the trestle I built, because there's no steam power on my neighbor's layout.
Here's a view taken from a slightly higher angle with no train on the trestle.
I hope this gives you some helpful ideas.
I used Basswood for my trestle. I can't remember what size wood, but it was really easy to build. Somebody mentioned the book "Bridges and Trestles". I photocopied the plans from that book and then adjusted them to my height. As long as you get your measurements right it should turn out nicely. My trestle is straight, but with a little more work I don't think it would be too hard make a curved one.
Smitty
I scratch built mine - time consuming but easy. I bought Kalmbacks's bridge and trestle book and took dimensions from there. I made my own jig with sticks and a piece of plywood. I have a wood shop, so I cut my own lumber from an old walnut board. The color was wonderful as is. I glued it together with dark colored wood glue. I build it upside down on the work bench using a template I laid out on foam core. That kept the top even and level. The problem with kits is they are always the wrong size.
Thanks for all the advice. I checked out my library and found the Kalmbach book about trestles. As said here, it doesn't seem to hard to build one from scratch. Do anyone know if walthers carry appropriate wood and what wood that would be? I would also apreciate some dimensions that I ought to use.
There are some magnificent trestles in this thread. I checked out UKguys thread from a few years back and that one blew me away.
So what dimensions? If you have a link that would be perfect to avoind confusement.
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OzarkBelt wrote:I once built a small diorama with a trestle from bamboo skewers. looked pretty good. Just a suggestion.
Whats next, popsicle sticks!
On a serious note, aren't they to weak?
Lillen wrote: OzarkBelt wrote:I once built a small diorama with a trestle from bamboo skewers. looked pretty good. Just a suggestion. Whats next, popsicle sticks! On a serious note, aren't they to weak? Magnus
I don't know, i didn't run anytrains on it...
though, i imagine it would have held because it was a scale 25' span.
How did it look? Did it look real?
Lillen wrote:How did it look? Did it look real? Magnus
Lillen wrote: So what dimensions? If you have a link that would be perfect to avoind confusement.Magnus
If you are following the trestle book, each set of plans will tell you what dimension lumber you will need for that style. I got all my numbers from the drawings in the book. If you want perfect accuracy, you need to get them all. I only used about 4 different sizes. Here is a site with nice stuff, though I have not tried thier strip wood. http://www.rustystumps.com/
reklein wrote:Lillen check the company MIDWEST for dimensioned basswood.You can get wood around 1/8" square by the bundle. That translates to a little less than a foot in HO. The walnut Art is using is perfect in color,no stain needed but hard to come by or expensive. I think Midwest handles that too.
Thanks, I checked it out. Here is the result: http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?category=&scale=&manu=midwest&item=&keywords=lumber&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search
If you would choose a few samples, say four different kinds, which ones would that be? Which one should I use as the main?
Would these be good:
The .125x.125 stock is good. Also keep in mind you'll need stock for the members that run lengthwise just under the ties,I forgot what they're called, but they're much heavier maybe 5/32x1/4". You may also want tie material or else order a length or two of Model Engineering bridge flex track. Nice stuff.Here's a pic.
I used dowel here as the bents (trestle frames) are driven piling.
Lillen wrote: OzarkBelt wrote:I once built a small diorama with a trestle from bamboo skewers. looked pretty good. Just a suggestion. Whats next, popsicle sticks! On a serious note, aren't they too weak?Bamboo is one of the hardest wood there is--it's 5 x stronger than red oak (bamboo is really grass) Magnus
On a serious note, aren't they too weak?
Bamboo is one of the hardest wood there is--it's 5 x stronger than red oak (bamboo is really grass)
I built one, but it ain't all that great.
From above:
No one made a curved bridge, so I built this. A 9" straight won't fit. (If i build a module for my engine service facility, I might)
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
Well I bought some stuff today. A couple of 120 cm long pieces of wood, some barbecue sticks and matches with out the sulfur thingy. I will try my hand at this. It won't be perfect but I willl learn. My bigest concern is that the main timbers will be to big, the smallest dimension I could find was 8mm*15mm but that will have to do. What ever I learn will be worth the somewhat small cost.
I will post a picture as soon as I get something done.
OzarkBelt wrote:good for you. looking forward to seeing your pics. hope our suggestions were/are helpful.
You where all very helpful. You have inspired me and given me valuable advice. Thank you all of you.