I've read about Ground Goop (Lou Sassi's recipe (from his book "Basic Scenery") is 1C Celluclay, 1C Permascene, 1C latex paint, 1/3C white glue, 1 capful Lysol _and water_ to bring it to "peanut butter" consistency.), and since Permascene is not available any more I know you can substitute more Celluclay or I can use SculptaMold, Vermiculite, or Pearlite if I'm wanting a lumpy, neutral filler.
My question is, have any of you found anything better? If so, what?
Hi,
Like Eric Brooman on his Uthath Belt RR I use for ground layer and shaping a mix of 50/50 modeling plaster and clay.
It's setting time is around 12 hours and i'ts still easily workable after a three or four hour drying.
The avandtage is the ground color.
jktrains wrote:I've used vermiculite in place of permascene with very good results.
I only use it on my plaster cloth mountains, as it's much cheaper, easier, and cleaner to apply the ground foam directly to the foam on areas where ground goop isn't needed.
I don't know if it looks better everywhere, but price is a big issue for me, and I'm very happy with the looks of the ground without the goop.
secondhandmodeler wrote:I believe Art Hill uses a mix of drywall mud, saw dust, paint, and Lysol.
That's what I use...sometime, If it's a thin enough coat and being that the humidity is so low here, I'll leave out the Lysol
Bob Berger, C.O.O. N-ovation & Northwestern R.R. My patio layout....SEE IT HERE
There's no place like ~/ ;)
secondhandmodeler wrote:I believe Art Hill uses a mix of drywall mud, saw dust, paint, and Lysol. I've never tried it, but I think it would work well. Maybe he will chime in later.
DW mud is so slow drying, soft and cracks and shrinks. Durabond 90 is a better product to use as the base. It only has a short working time but is very stable, much harder and resists shrinking and cracking. This hillside was done with the Durabond, Perlite, sawdust and masonry dye. Not as brittle as plaster, yet hard enough to withstand any abuse from the below access and drilling for trees is easy.
The white bagged version of the Durabond (Sheetrock 90 minute) may be readily avaiable to some, it works almost as well. It is slower and somewhat softer.
Many times I'll still perfer veneering plaster such as Unical, Diamond etc. I like the workability of it. I leave Hydrocal for castings.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
What's that? Oh, I get it! Ground goop. Sorry.
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
Dave Vollmer wrote: What's that? Oh, I get it! Ground goop. Sorry.
Ya, but it is too slow in drying and cracks and crumbles. The odor does eventually disipate though.
Dave, How did you manage such detail in N scale? It looks so real I can almost smell it.
HEY! Dave came up with an earth-friendly solution!
Tell ya what Dave, you try it out and if it works out for ya maybe I'll give it a shot.......NOT!
I'm becoming increasingly concerned about Dave V.!! I'm mean, just look at his posts! I really think his new home brew kit is affecting his sanity!
WE NOW RETURN TO OUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED THREAD........
pcarrell wrote: HEY! Dave came up with an earth-friendly solution!Tell ya what Dave, you try it out and if it works out for ya maybe I'll give it a shot.......NOT!
I can picture Dave's new layout video......."How the PRR (Middle Div) was invaded by gigantic dung beatles, and how my new kitbashed N scale loco kicked their butts"
concretelackey wrote: pcarrell wrote: HEY! Dave came up with an earth-friendly solution!Tell ya what Dave, you try it out and if it works out for ya maybe I'll give it a shot.......NOT!I can picture Dave's new layout video......."How the PRR (Middle Div) was invaded by gigantic dung beatles, and how my new kitbashed N scale loco kicked their butts"
Or is it the PPR has gone to poo literally.