Bought my first kit to build... Got some questions...

[Anonymous]

I visited one of the other local hobby shops and picked up a Smalltown USA kit. The Hardware Store. Cheap, basic and nothing special about it. I also picked up some glue recommended by the man behind the counter. A little bottle called PlastiZap.

 But before I glue it together, I believe I want to prep the plastic and paint it first. With that said, I have some questions.

1. Is there a website on how to paint and detail buildings?

2. Besides a hobby knife and the glue, what supplies will I need to get into this? What are the basic must haves I will use on every kit I build. I just don't want to pick something up that I will not use at all.

3. Any suggestions?

 

I also picked up the 2008 WALTHERS catalog. The shop I visited was called Just 4 fun in the Frandor mall in Lansing. It's rather small, not much in the way of selection for trains, but the stuff they did have was a bit better quality of the store I visited the other day, where I picked up my few peices of track and roadbed... Anyways, I was happy, they deal with walthers, they will be able to order stuff when I need it. I know I can order stuff online, and most likely will, but If I m not in a big yank for it, Ill let the LHS make a profit...

 

Ken

[chadw]

Two other tools you will defitely want are a file and a square.  The kit parts will often have flash left over from the molding process that will stop the parts from fitting correctly.  The easiest way to remove the flash is with a file.  Sandpaper works too just as long as you use a sanding block.  The square just keeps everything well, square.  It will keep your walls from leaning or having the walls of the building skewed since then the roof wont fit.  Good luck while building your kit and post any questions you have here since I'm sure someone will have the answer.

[Autobus Prime]

1. Is there a website on how to paint and detail buildings?

AC:

You can do no better than to go out and look at the real thing.  For earlier eras, see your library.  There is also a very good website for mid-20th century steam era here:

railroad.union.rpi.edu

It does cost money.  I suggest paying $8 for one month and trying it out.

(I don't like subscription fees, either, but RPI apparently insisted, since the site was paid for out of the student-activities fund...I'm sure if it was up to the club it would be free.)

[modelmaker51]

railroad.union.rpi.edu doesn't seem to work.

[fiatfan]

railroad.union.rpi.edu doesn't seem to work.

I made the link active.

railroad.union.rpi.edu

 

Tom 

[twcenterprises]

When I build my DPM and Smalltown kits, I build them first, then paint them.  I spray the brick color, then brush paint the trim color.  I'm not sure on the Smalltown kits, but on the DPM's you need to sand/file the (front) edges of the side walls, and both ends of the back wall, square.  The front wall should not need any sanding/filing on either end.  The edges are bevelled to allow them to come out of the plastic mold.  Also, you should sand/file square the bottoms of all 4 walls.

Do a search on DPM, as there was a thread in the last 2 or 3 days, and several of us described how we assemble and paint our kits. 

Brad 

[HHPATH56]

Hi again Ken,

As to tools, I use an off-set pair or "rail cutters" from the LHS. I prefer to use "Model Master" glue for styrene models. It comes in a black trangular can with a 1" needle nosed spout,from LHS.  I keeps a fine toothed file and fine grade sandpaper handy to smooth out the places where you cut out the "sprues".  Most models have sides that you glue together,on a plastic base.  It is always a good idea to do any weathering before installing the window casements. Either apply stained chalk, or very dilute India ink. You can always add more weathering color, but it is difficult to remove, if you overdo it!  Coat the parts with a non-reflective clear spray, before applying the windows to the building.  After glueing the windows and doors in place, I prefer to use "waxed paper, or frosted plastic" instead of the clear plastic windows, that are provided with the kit, so that they are transluscent, but no glaringly transparent, if you install lighting. For stores, it is a good idea to use the clear plastic in the store windows, with a backdrop of tiny pictures of items for sale in the store. Many modelers, actually place furniture inside, and proportional sized wallpaper, and figures. I like to use a thin rubber band to hold the walls square, while the glue dries. Be sure to cover the glue bottle lid. The glue dries very rapidly. Model Master provides a fine metal wire to reopen the spout, if it becomes clogged. The MR Nov. issue pg.80 has a wonderful article on weathering ,"Clever tecniques to model rumdown structures"  Keep any spare parts in a box, for later "kitbashing". You will be surprised at how many extra parts they often include in a kit. I have a box full of odd parts, that prove to be very useful. Weather the roof pieces before installing them. It is often useful to glue a piece of plastic to keep the two edges of the roof sections, inline and tight.  

[MisterBeasley]

I paint my structures before I glue them together.  I use Hydrocal for my brick mortar, so I need to lay each side flat as I apply it.  With the walls unassembled, I can do them all at once.

If the walls are thin plastic, you might want to spray them black on the inside if you plan to put lights in the building.  (Even if you don't plan to, paint them anyway.  You might change your mind.  It's easy before you put the kit together, but a lot harder after.)  If you think you might detail the inside, think about that before assembly, too, and put the interior wall covering on.

[KlickyMobster]

Check out the NOvember 06 issue of model railroader.  On pages 44-46 they show how they painted, built, and weathered a backdrop kit.  Most of the techniques can be used for all structures.