Building a gate so I don't have to duck underneath???

[gpharo]

I have been debating a duck-under in my layout for a couple of years now.  And last month I finally gave in.  In regards to track design and operation I love what it does for me. I basically have an enclosed rectangle with a space in the middle, but I hate going on my hands and knees to go underneath to reach this area.

I want to use some sort of hinge system/gate instead, however I am not sure on how to do this with maintaining a good electrical current and a smooth track transition for my trains,  (I don't want it to be uneven or have a big gap - derailing nightmare).

Does anyone have any suggestions, ideas or recommend old articles that I could read.

Thanks

[loathar]

You have to use feeder wires to get the power to the track and some type of locating dowel pins so the track lines up every time. MR had an article on this about 2 years ago, but I don't remember which issue.

[tomikawaTT]

The lead article in the most recent MR e-newsletter describes a gate, which, I presume, is what you're looking for.  You might want to give it a glance.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[wedudler]

I've made a lift out bridge and I'm very satisfied with this. It's high, so I can crawl under if there's operation night.

More at my room site.

Wolfgang 

 

[gpharo]

Chuck 

I wasn't sure what to call it, either a duck-under, gate, or bridge.  For some reason, I must have deleted the latest e-newsletter from model railroader. Would be able to forward me a copy to my e-mail.  If you can, I'll send you my e-mail address.

Thanks

 

 

[cowman]

Search these forums and the MR Index of Magazines, I've seen several posts/articles on them over the past few years. I'm keeping one in the back of my mind when/if I ever get into the designated train room.

Have fun,

[selector]

It works very well for swing-down type entrances if you take the trouble and have the foresight to find a way to fasten the platform up and out of the way when you don't want it in place.  The idea is not to let it dangle, so-to-speak, but to continue the arc until it is tucked well up out of the way.  That way, you or someone else won't damage it with elbows, back, or knees.

Secondly, a decent quality set of hinges, or a fairly long hinge, sets the stage for good close alignment when you have it swung up into position.  Two hinges set at least 6" apart, or one long hinge in the 8-12" range will keep it oriented to one axis during the swing up into position.  This is key.

However, also key is how it is held, locked into place, at the swinging, or non-hinged end.  I used two brass barrel locks.  Again, if at least 8" apart, they will keep the moving end algined when locked into place so that your rails meet nicely.  Just remember to ensure that the front face of the bench and the front face of the swing-down are angled (//, viewed in profile), with the bench on the left and the swing-up on the right for clearance on the downard arc.  All you need to do is provide a pair of thin feeder wires from the anchor side of the bench, where the hinge is, in a short filament and up to the closest rail ends.

If you visualize it all a couple of times, it all falls into place...well, swings up, I mean.

[scubaterry]

Go to the top of the page and click on the MRR mag icon.  Then
go to articles/layout construction and you will find an article on a
swing out bridge.

 

Terry in Florida 

[doctorwayne]

The July 2007 issue of RMC has an article on building a swing gate (opens like a door).  The one shown is sceniced and has two levels of track, but the general principle would be the same for one with only one track and no scenery. 

I use a very simple lift-out at the entrance to my layout room.  In the photo below, the 3/4" plywood liftout can be seen on the floor, leaning against the benchwork, and part of the positioner on the layout facia can be seen in the lower right foreground.  I use a 5-prong (to help maintain proper orientation) plug to power the lift-out and it would be easy to add an interlock to prevent locos from moving when the "bridge is out".

 

Wayne

[ndbprr]

The structures is a function of location.  I will have two on my PRR corridor railroad.  One will get a full door with frame flush with the backdrop to allow access to the rest of the basement. An occupancy detector will tell people on the back side of the door when it is safe to open it since the restroom will be on that side.  In the other case Margie yard is 12 tracks wide and the mainline is 6 tracks plus industries on the far side.  That would be too wide for anyone to reach across so I separated the sixth track and the yard with an aisle between the 6th track and the fifth track.  This allows switch crews and the yard operator access to the industries and inside tracks.  That one will have a lift up attached with a hinge at the lift end.  Visiblity will be 15' in either direction and only one track is involved so there will be no reason to do anything other than  cut power a few feet from the edge in the event someone is forgetful.  My opinion of duckunders has gone from disliking them at 35 to hating them at 62.  If you have to you have to but I would change a lot of railroad design before I would ever have another one.