WS Plaster Cloth--do you use more than one layer?

[Anonymous]

I'm in the process of building the Subterrain Scenery Kit as an introduction to the WS Subterrain Foam system.  I'm at the point where I need to cover the newspaper rolls with plaster cloth.  Following their directions, and "covering as many holes as possible," still leaves plenty of holes (the soggy newspaper underneath didn't help to provide a good support to fill the holes).  Is it normal to use more than one layer of plaster cloth (after the initial layer has completely dried) to achieve satisfactory result?

 

[ARTHILL]

If you need the stiffness and plan to paint the cloth as final scenery, two layers are necesary.

I use my version of ground goop on top of the plaster cloth and so one layer is enough.

I do admit that I use mostly styrofoam for sceney now.

[railroadyoshi]

When I used plaster cloth, I pretty much double layered it, although I had intended to double only about 50% of it where necessary. The second layer will still not cover all the holes. To fill these and to fill indents in the shape (due to cardboard strip support) I added another layer of a product called Sculptamold. This material is a lot like paper mache, except that it is much easier to use.

Looking at your photo, it appears that the cloth might have been dipped a bit too long. One needs only dip the cloth in the water very lightly and really no more than a second (from the first dream plan build video). Otherwise, it becomes runny and plaster runs off, leaving less material on the cloth. Another option is to spray after laying the cloth on the surface, although this works better for shallower slopes. This would cause less loss and fewer holes.

That said, In the end like Arthill I think I prefer foam construction. If you are making small hills, I think that foam is a better option as it is less time consuming and for the most part less expensive. For very large hills, as long as they are not extremely steep, the plaster coat method using cloth is definitely a better choice as foam can become very expensive. Sorry to go off topic there; just offering an opinion. Both ways work well in the end.

Hope this helps, 

[MisterBeasley]

I agree with Art on this one.  I use Gypsolite as my final coat before painting in most places.  It is plenty to cover over the holes in the plaster cloth.  Even if you don't want to use this, though, I think that the holes will not be a problem after you paint and turf the area.

Give it a try.  Pick a small area, paint it some yucky color of green (I use "foliage") and then add glue and turf.  If you like the result, fine.  If not, get some Gypsolite or mix up some ground goop and bury your mistake, just like the doctors do.

[loathar]

Those fabric softener dryer sheets dipped in plaster work well too. Much cheaper than WS plaster cloth. I use a couple layers for extra strength.

[Anonymous]

I used plaster and Viva paper towels.  I cut the paper towels to the size of strips I needed and dipped them in the plaster.  I used mostly foam board but there were some areas that I used this on.  In all I spent $20 total.

 

Jeremy

[Greg H.]

Those fabric softener dryer sheets dipped in plaster work well too. Much cheaper than WS plaster cloth. I use a couple layers for extra strength.

Before of after you use them in the drier - they are not all than cheap either, but, they are of a reasionably strong material.

[loathar]

Those fabric softener dryer sheets dipped in plaster work well too. Much cheaper than WS plaster cloth. I use a couple layers for extra strength.

Before of after you use them in the drier - they are not all than cheap either, but, they are of a reasionably strong material.

I get the generic ones. Box of 100 for $2. Use them for my laundry and then save them which makes them free for train purposes. They pile up pretty fast if your doing laundry for 2 or more people. I hate the way paper towels rip and tear. These are great!

[fiatfan]

I use wadded up neswpaper to form the general terrrain and cover it with a single layer of plaster cloth. After I lay the palster cloth over the newspaper and I spray the cloth and smooth it out by hand.  Then I use patching plaster to form the finish llayer.  Very light weight yet sturdy enough to mount trees, etc.  I'm modeling a SW theme so there aren't too many trees.

Tom 

[dave9999]

I use wadded up neswpaper to form the general terrrain and cover it with a single layer of plaster cloth. After I lay the palster cloth over the newspaper and I spray the cloth and smooth it out by hand.  Then I use patching plaster to form the finish llayer.  Very light weight yet sturdy enough to mount trees, etc.  I'm modeling a SW theme so there aren't too many trees.

Tom 

I use this method myself, especially in tight spots. I lay the strips of plaster cloth where I need it and mist it with a spray bottle. Dipping the cloth seems to wash away much of the plaster. 

As for more than one layer, I overlap the strips about half way... sometimes less if not in a really visible location. 

Good luck, Dave   

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the replies so far!  By the way, what's patching plaster?  Is it some fancy ready-to-use plaster compound?

I think what I'm going to try is to mix a thin batch of plaster (say, the consistency of milk or slightly thicker) and see if I can handbrush it on the offending spots.  True, the dried surface won't be as sturdy as say two layers of plaster cloth or plaster-impregnated paper towel/fabric softner, but even the single layer seems pretty sturdy.

Thanks again. 

[ARTHILL]

Two problems with mixed plaster

1. You cannot wash the tools in the sink without plgging the trap

2. It cures so fast it is hard to keep up

Therefore I have been using premixed lite weight drywall seam cement. It mixes well with paint for color, it can be thined with water, I add sawdust for texture sometimes and it takes several hours to dry. When used thick, it can be carved up to a day later (nice for rock walls.)

It also can be washed in the sink.

[Anonymous]

Two problems with mixed plaster

1. You cannot wash the tools in the sink without plgging the trap

2. It cures so fast it is hard to keep up

Right.  I've done a fair amount of work with plaster (HirstArts molds, in case anyone's heard of them) so I'm careful not to flush down the remainder down the drain.  I usually let the mixture dry then toss that in the trash.

My gyptum plaster of choice is actually Excalibur dental plaster, which is much harder than plaster of paris, doesn't rub off, and handles much better.   

[fiatfan]

After I use the plaster (which has a base color added so there are not white spots) I rinse the tools in a plastic bucket.  Then, after the plaster settles to the bottom, I carefully pour off the water and allow the remaining plaster to dry.  When it's dry, I break it up for talus.

Hope this helps.

Tom 

[ereimer]

After I use the plaster (which has a base color added so there are not white spots) I rinse the tools in a plastic bucket.  Then, after the plaster settles to the bottom, I carefully pour off the water and allow the remaining plaster to dry.  When it's dry, I break it up for talus.

Hope this helps.

Tom 

great idea !

one really shouldn't dump any plaster down the drain , or clean tools in the sink . eventually you're going to gum up your pipes and have an expensive plumber bill 

[jimsrpo]

Back to the original question!!!

I use two layers of the plaster gauze crisscrossing them for strength.  Then, I brush a coat of plaster over the hardened gauze for additional strength in areas where it may be "leaned on."  I like a brand of plaster called "Structolite" from my local Home Depot.  It sets very slowly (hours) so working time is never a problem, has a dark color when set so white spots never appear, and it has an interesting granular texture.

Jim

[Anonymous]

Here's a little more information about Excalibur dental plaster, from the HirstArts website:

http://hirstarts.com/casting/dental.html

[skerber]

Sometimes I use more than one layer--only when I need more strength.  Overall, I just usually make sure I go back and forth with my finger to cover as many of those small holes as possible--using the plaster in the cloth.  Then I paint a base coat of brown (my setting is central/eastern KY) and apply ground cover.

[Greg H.]

Ok, so why does anyone bother to use plaster, then spend the time painting it?

I'm mean, they make liquid concrete stain, that you just add to the mix, when it's mixing up, and it dyes the concrete a different color from a redish brown to tan to black and 3-4 colors in between.

Why not just add the stain to the water your using with the plaster, and change the color of the plaster ( even if your spraying the water onto the plaster cloth )?    Last time I looked, the dye was running about $3-5 for a quart and since it's concentrated, a little would go a very long way.

[MisterBeasley]

For my Gypsolite surfaces, I mix in some brown acrylic paint before I apply it.  The Gypsolite is naturally a very light gray, and the paint turns it to a light tan.  However, I believe in "irregularity" of the surface, so after the Gypsolite hardens, I go over parts of it with a thin green wash, ending up with a "camouflage" pattern.  Sometimes I use a darker gray on parts, too.  Then, when I turf the surface with 2 or 3 different shades of turf, I completely avoid the "golf course" look and instead get something wild and wooley.