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Permascene
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Jamie, I'm not at home this weekend and so I can't check my notes. It's also been several months since I erected enough benchwork and track to do any scenery, so you'll have to bear with me on this. If I remember correctly, though, this is the basic formula: <br /> <br />1. Mix your basic ground-color latex paint with water in a 1:1 proportion. i.e., 1/2 cup paint to 1/2 cup water. <br /> <br />2. In a suitable container (I use a tupperware-type bowl) mix Sculptamold and the paint/water mix in a 3:1 proportion. i usually use 1/3 cup of coloring to 1 full cup of sculptamold. Mix thoroughly. <br /> <br />3. I use everything from a small Rubbermaid <br />spatula to a set of small spatulas (available from MicroMark) to work the Sculptamold mix. I just put it right over my basic hardshell or plaster-gauze forms. I also use it to "glue" rock castings and broken castings in place (after which I work the mix all around the castings so they look like real rock outcastings). Don't worry about trying to work it perfectly smooth; it looks much more realistic when it's still a little rough and bumpy - especially after applying ground foam, small twigs, etc. <br /> <br />I even carved a fairly credible stone retaining wall in it after it dried. <br /> <br />It's got a long dryiing time (about 24 hours) so it's easy to work and shape. It's easy to clean up, too. One of the things I like about it best, though, is that I don't have to worry about inadvertant paint drips when I'm working close to trackage like I used to when I was using just straight paint and ground foam for scenery. <br /> <br />Anyway, I think the proportions above are pretty close to correct. I don't remember where I first saw Frary's "formula" for this stuff - it might have been in his scenery book - but I've been using this method for a number of years now and really like it. <br />Mike C.
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