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Walthers Transfer Table - stopped working.

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  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Poland
  • 111 posts
Posted by Arras88 on Friday, May 17, 2024 9:15 AM

Thank you very much for your replies and help. Most likely I found the proper gear here in Poland. One of my modeler friends has a spare part. I will get it next week. 

I looked through the NWSL web page  - an impressive collection of parts. This might help if the part I receive is incorrect.

I think this weekend I will try with CA glue. In case of failure, the spare part is on the way. 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 21,669 posts
Posted by Overmod on Thursday, May 16, 2024 11:59 AM

Usually I use 'driven gear' rather than 'worm wheel' to be slightly clearer.

Note that if you are going to replace this gear rather than simply using thin cyanoacrylate, you'd do better with the correct type of gear.  Walthers has used a simple spur gear.  The 'correct' gear will have skew teeth matching the engaging face of the worm across more of the tooth face.

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Pa.
  • 3,361 posts
Posted by DigitalGriffin on Tuesday, May 14, 2024 4:47 PM

Arras88

 

I wrote it wrong. It's a worm drive. The worm gear is on the motor rod and it is ok. The worm wheel is broken. It is placed on the rod which goes to the bridge. 

The cracked wheel is plastic, white in color, has a diameter of 5.7mm (the converter says 0.2244 inches), and has 10 teeth. 

 

PS I hope I used correct English technical expressions Smile

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Please post inner diameter.  Also post the tooth depth if possible.  To calculate MOD we need to know the diameter of the wheel which is measured from the center to the middle of the teeth.   Or the outside wheel diameter-tooth depth.

BTW: The worm gear is the helical gear attached to the motor shaft.  This is a standard gear attached to the other shaft.

Gearing – NorthWest Short Line (nwsl.com)

Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions

Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Pa.
  • 3,361 posts
Posted by DigitalGriffin on Tuesday, May 14, 2024 4:34 PM

Last I checked NWSL made custom gears to spec.  But just about any watch maker could do it.  You could also 3D print one with  resin printer.

Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions

Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!

  • Member since
    May 2024
  • 2 posts
Posted by user1234 on Monday, May 13, 2024 5:56 PM

I have one of these turntables.  My yard is a piece of plywood, so I cut a hole in it, installed the turntable, added a Roundhouse and track. Replacing it is just not practical.

So I removed the bridged, removed the components in the bridge and put the bridge back in with all the wiring. 

I just use it manually and for all my need, manual suffices and my grandson is quite expert at using it.

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, May 12, 2024 2:46 PM

Those photos remind me of gears used on the Walthers Bascule Bridge and who knows what else.I think there is a chance, however slim, that Walthers may have some available. Give them a call.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Poland
  • 111 posts
Posted by Arras88 on Sunday, May 12, 2024 2:38 PM

 

I wrote it wrong. It's a worm drive. The worm gear is on the motor rod and it is ok. The worm wheel is broken. It is placed on the rod which goes to the bridge. 

The cracked wheel is plastic, white in color, has a diameter of 5.7mm (the converter says 0.2244 inches), and has 10 teeth. 

 

PS I hope I used correct English technical expressions Smile

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, May 12, 2024 8:03 AM

Arras88

I finally disassembled the bridge. I found the cracked gear that spins on the motor's metal rod. This is a reason. Now I am looking for a solution. I am not sure if the glue will help. 

I doubt that spare parts are available anywhere...

Is the gear plastic?
 
What color?
 
Diameter?
 
How many teeth?
 
Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Poland
  • 111 posts
Posted by Arras88 on Sunday, May 12, 2024 3:47 AM

mvlandsw

Look for cracked gears or couplings in the drive train.

Mark

Good guess!

I finally disassembled the bridge. I found the cracked gear that spins on the motor's metal rod. This is a reason. Now I am looking for a solution. I am not sure if the glue will help. 

I doubt that spare parts are available anywhere...

Thank you all for your replies. 

 
  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Pa.
  • 3,361 posts
Posted by DigitalGriffin on Saturday, May 11, 2024 4:10 PM

Have you tried pushing it by hand?  Old greese can sometimes gum up with works

 

Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions

Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • 1,190 posts
Posted by mvlandsw on Saturday, May 11, 2024 1:30 AM

Look for cracked gears or couplings in the drive train.

Mark

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,281 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Monday, May 6, 2024 8:07 PM

Gotta be mechanical.

Rich

 

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • 1,162 posts
Posted by PC101 on Monday, May 6, 2024 7:42 PM

?

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Poland
  • 111 posts
Walthers Transfer Table - stopped working.
Posted by Arras88 on Sunday, May 5, 2024 5:01 AM

Hello, 

Unfortunately, my Transfer Table (Walthers 933-2968) stopped working. It hasn't been used for two or three years. I was focused on building my layout in the second room. I tried to use it yesterday and there is no movement. 

It seems that electrical connections are good. The controller works, and I can operate lights on the deck and in the cab. When I send a command to move the bridge, the humming motor is heard but the bridge is not moving. The same happens with the calibration command - something starts humming (I guess a motor) but the bridge has no movement. 

I guess that it is a mechanical error. Maybe the gears stuck. It has been a few years since it worked last. 

It is hard to diagnose the problem when I have the bridge on my work desk. I can't remove the pit without destroying my layout - like in a turntable, rails are glued on the edges of the pit. Without the pit, I don't know how to power the bridge. The second pit would be useful. 

There are five rails on the pit which are connected to the controller. A DCC decoder seems to be installed in a cab on the deck. It would be helpful to have a wiring diagram. 

 

 

Maybe someone has already had such a problem? Any tips on how to fix this?

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