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Microswitchs

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  • Member since
    May 2004
  • 7,500 posts
Posted by 7j43k on Thursday, August 5, 2021 3:57 PM

Matt,

My point is that you only need a switch if you wish to be able to turn the power off.  If you DON'T wish to turn the power off, you DON'T install a switch at all.  You just run a wire.

If the OP only wishes to run power to some sections of track that don't have any (as he stated), then he doesn't need a switch, micro or otherwise.  He needs a wire.

 

I look forward to his showing up and clearing the air on this.

 

 

Ed

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Southington, CT
  • 106 posts
Posted by mthobbies on Thursday, August 5, 2021 2:46 PM

7j43k
A microswitch doesn't deliver power anywhere, it interrupts power.

Ed you're right. A Normally Closed micro switch will break the circuit when pressed. But if it is wired Normally Open then it would complete the circuit when pressed.

-Matt

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • 7,500 posts
Posted by 7j43k on Thursday, August 5, 2021 2:43 PM

OP,

A microswitch doesn't deliver power anywhere, it interrupts power.  Wires deliver power.

If you are concerned with delivering power in and around your ("unpowered") movable section, you need flexible wires and/or electrical contacts.

If you are concerned with interrupting power, as in when the section is not in place, THEN you would use microswitches IN ADDITION to the flexible wires and contacts.

 

You might want to clarify your needs and goals.

 

Ed

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Thursday, August 5, 2021 11:18 AM

Many many years ago I had a lift up section that I used a switch to drop power to the track a couple of feet before the big drop.  Any micro switch would work, in my case I needed to drop the power to two tracks so I had the switch pull in a 4PST relay that dropped power to all four rails when the bridge was up.  Never had any thing take the big drop.

They make several versions of micro switches, some no activating lever some with long and some with short levers as well as some with rollers.  Most are 3 to 6 amp rated.


Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951



My Model Railroad    
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
Aging is not for wimps.

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • 7,500 posts
Posted by 7j43k on Thursday, August 5, 2021 11:12 AM

For what you're describing, you don't need any microswitches.  If you want power to the "bridge", connect each rail on that section to the track leading up to the hinge, using a flexible connection.

If you also need an electrical jumper, via the bridge, to power the other side, you will need to add electrical contacts.  I've done that on my layout that has 4 lift-out sections for door and window access.  I used brass strips, positioned on the bottom of the lift-out, and on the top of the lift-out support.  I don't remove them very often.

If I were to have to open and close them more frequently, I think I would change to what's called "wiping" contacts, where the metal slides mostly, instead of just plopping down.  This makes the contacts sort of self-cleaning.

I'm not thinking of any off-the-shelf easy solution for the contacts--I think you'll have to make your own.

 

You CAN get fancier with automatic cutoffs so a train doesn't run through an open bridge, but you didn't ask that.

 

 

Ed

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • 595 posts
Microswitchs
Posted by mreagant on Thursday, August 5, 2021 9:37 AM

I have a swing down section that is unpowered and I need to get power across the section. I've been considering micro switchs to connect each part of the layout to the drop-down. I think I have it figured out, but I'd input about exactly how to do it and what is the best kind to use.

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