Living the dream.
Actually, I had to go look for the book. It's called "HO Primer, Model Railroading for All", by Linn Westcott.
His perferred method is the 2 toggles, like what you show, and using the Atlas Twin #210.
Mike.
My You Tube
It's up to you Kevin. I had the 220 hooked up to 3 #215 selectors, and used common rail, with 2 cabs.
I installed it as per Atlas instructions, and had no problems. I think the instructions were on the back of the package, plus I had a book by, I think, Linn Wescott, describing and showing examples of wiring methods, use toggles, and a section on setting up Atlas components.
SeeYou190Can you help me understand the Atlas 220 switch.
Here's an instruction pdf from Atlas.
http://download.atlasrr.com/pdf/Item220Instructions.pdf
To keep the flow of the train smooth, I remember I had to be watching, and ready at the switch. Nothing was automatic like todays DCC auto reverse controlers are.
Kevin,
Great article. I will keep it simple but ultimately move to some form of automation.
Dave K.
I started out in HO in 1951 as a 14yr old. I pretty much self taught myself how to wire my layout. I used blocks back then and still do. All blocks have a DPDT center off toggle switch with a home run from the track to the switch.When I started my current layout in 1989 I went with block control, I guess after using block control for 38 years I was comfortable with throwing switches.When I cutover to dual mode DC or DCC I made an attempt at following the DCC Guru way but it dinged all my signaling so I rewired it back to original DC block control. The DCC operation works as well as the DC block operation.I purchased an MRC Prodigy Advance² DCC System, I had used MRC power DC packs for 50 years without a single problem.The DCC system has worked perfect on my block wiring since day one.All that to get around to saying if it was my layout I would go with the DPDT toggles, simplest way, KISS!Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
In the late 80's, I built this:
The "Y" needed a reversing switch, so I used the Atlas #220:
My original 4'x8' layout had two reverse loops, one within the main oval, and one which could be switched to track outside the oval, which was then elevated and crossed the oval on a truss bridge and a wooden trestle, then returned to the other side of the oval, at ground-level.Each reversing loop was electrically-isolated (both rails) from the rest of the layout, and there was a double throw switch which controlled direction within both of those loops, as only one would be in use at any time.
Before the train entered either loop, the direction switch for the loop needed to be aligned for the proper direction. While the loco was within the isolated loop, another switch, which controlled direction for the rest of the layout, would be re-positioned to allow the train to continue without need of stopping.Here's a rough sketch done from memory (click on photo to enlarge)...
The layout, built by my father, was Atlas brass flextrack on fibre ties, with all but one turnout also Atlas, buit from kits. The non-Atlas turnout was a scratchbuilt #8, again done by my father.All turnouts were remotely controlled by use of choke wires, which rotated an under-table mechanism to move the points (I wish that I had taken photos of that mechanism, as it was very easy to use, and included rotating targets on the switchstands.All locos and rolling stock had Kadee K-type couplers, and there were multiple uncoupling ramps, also remotely activated from the control panel.
Wayne