Hello All,
ndbprrMy original post us about wiring a decoder.
Thank you for your clarification.
Digitrax sells a set of 9 colors of 30 ga wire in 10-foot lengths per color.
Decoder Wire
A handy way to store this wire is sewing machine bobbins. These are available at most Walmart and Target in the sewing department.
They are small spools about an inch in diameter available in clear plastic or metal. I prefer the clear plastic ones.
A 10-foot piece of 30 ga wire will fit on each spool. They have holes in the sides so you can tuck the end of the wire in them so the wire won't unspool.
You will also need a quality soldering station and solder.
I recommend the Hakko FX-888D soldering station.
The soldering tip is grounded so it won't damage the electrical components in the decoder.
Yes, it's pricy but it's an investment well worth the cost. I got mine at Tequipment.
For solder Kester brand is recommended by several decoder manufacturers. Part #2463370007.
I got mine at Kimco. Again, it's more expensive than other solders but a single 1-lb roll will last a lifetime.
You will also need shrinkwrap tubing to insulate the soldered wire joints. This comes in many sizes and colors.
Rather than getting a boxed assortment, I recommend: 3/64", 1/16" and 3/32" in black and red.
Inexpensive embossing tools (heat shrink guns) are readily available to set the heat shrink tubing.
Just like anything else the expense of quality tools will outstrip the cost of the parts being installed.
But once you have made the investment in good tools they should last a lifetime of use.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Assuming this is your original post, the online shops that sell decoders, streamlined backshop, tonys trains, litchfield station and Yankee dabler all sell a pack of color coded 30ga wire. 30 ga is the right size and sticking to the proper colors is immensely helpful.
One of the forum electrical gurus recommend this soldering station
You've been here a while. It's Randy's recommendation
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Unless you have a lot of room #22 is too big. I use #30 for my decoders. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
My original post us about wiring a decoder.
I’ve always wired my track that way. When I was wiring my first HO track way back in 1951 my Dad ask me why I didn’t hide the wires by soldering them to the bottom instead of the side? Made sense so I went with his suggestion.He was a 027 guy through and through and hated my “tiny junk”. He said it would never stay on the track. In 1951 I hand laid all my track because that was all there was back then. Rails were 3 for a dime and Atlas fiber ties were on a 25’ roll and I had to make cuts in the fiber tie strip to form a curve.I proved to him that I could hand lay my track and never had derails. He never apologized but never said anything negative after he saw it running. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Yes, I solder the wire with it coming from the center of the track. If it’s a bit long it is easily clipped flush with the outside of the rail. When the track is anchored in place I drill a 1/16” hole between the rails and pull the wire flush, the wire will be covered with ballast.
[/quote]Interesting, thanks, Mel. On my new layout, I installed the track, then wired the feeders to the outside of the rails, bending the wire 90 degrees and tucking into the rails.
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain RR_Mel I solder the #20 feeders to the under side of the rails in the gap between the ties, not seen after ballasting. Mel, do you do that before installing the track? Rich
RR_Mel I solder the #20 feeders to the under side of the rails in the gap between the ties, not seen after ballasting.
I solder the #20 feeders to the under side of the rails in the gap between the ties, not seen after ballasting.
Mel, do you do that before installing the track?
Yes, I solder the wire with it coming from the center of the track. If it’s a bit long it is easily clipped flush with the outside of the rail. When the track is anchored in place I drill a 1/16” hole between the rails and pull the wire flush, the wire will be covered with ballast. For drilling the hole I use a 1/16 bit with a long shank, 6” long and will go through the road base, plywood and even a 2” x 4” framing if needed. When I’m wiring accessories and the 6” bit is too short I have a longer bit, 12”.Many years ago I bought a set if 12” long drill bits 1/16” to 3/8”, they came in a wooded case, that tells you how old they are. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Look for Alarm Wire, 22 gauge, solid copper. It's everywhere, and can be purchased by the foot/yard at the local hardware stores. Strip off the plastic outer sheath insulator, and then you have four color coded wires to use. These would be from a bus or some other terminal to individual rails.
If you are talking about a main distribution bus, and the amperage totals less than 15 amps, use 14 gauge household wall wiring, the kind that goes to light switches and wall sockets.
I solder the #20 feeders to the under side of the rails in the gap between the ties, not seen after ballasting. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
ndbprr...dcc hook ups?
Are you talking about track feeders from the bus, the wire for the bus, or are you talking about wiring decoders?
The more specific you can be helps the folks on these forums to accurately answer your questions(s).
I used 22 gauge stranded wire for feeders on my prior layout, and it worked out just fine.
On my new layout, 20 gauge solid wire was recommended, so I used it. My only issue with 20 gauge solid wire is that it is a little too large if you solder it up against the outside of the rail.
I use #20 solid bell wire from a big box store. Solid is easier to work with. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Is 22 gauge stranded wire the choice for dcc hook ups? If not what is. Thanks