Track cleaning with DCC that lasts (track gleaming)

[rrinker]

Selector: That's how I wired mine, although I also put power to the unsoldered joiners as well. 

Kevin: I might try that, I do have some old silver coins that are worn down like that so they are only worth anything for the value of their silver, not the coin itself. I actually used the back side of my hardened cutters that I use to cut music wire. I don't think it matters much as long as the material is harder than nickel silver.

Carl: I don;t remember any promise of no more track cleaning, but with the gleaming process to close up microabrasions in the rail, dirt doesn't really stick. There may be some dust if the layout is in an unsealed area, or you don't run trains much, but that can be brushed/blown off, it doesn't need crazy liquids or special cleaning tank cars full of them. I know someone did an analysis of the gunk that forms on the rails and claims it has nothing to do with plastic wheels or anything, but find a spot that you haven't dusted for a while, like a high shelf or something, and spray it with some cleaner and then try to wipe it up. You can't tell me using a wet agent on the dust that forms on the rails just sitting there won't generate a similar gunk that you had better totally clean off. My solution was to burnish the rails, use all metal wheels, and run trains frequently. Never needed additional cleaning.

 The ultrafine grit sandpapers are often found in auto parts stores, with the bodywork supplies. And you can't just stop at the lower numbers - that's the problem with other abrasive cleaning methods, they leave the surface pitted, even if you can't see it without a microscope. Those pits and gouges collect dirt. Ultrafine and then a good burnishing (although as I said, I found just the burnishing worked - but that was all brand new track out of the box, not stuff that have been around for years and cleaned with various other methods like Brite Boys and such) close those up. Real track that sees regular traffic is similarly burnished by the steel wheels and at the point of contact is very shiny, even if the sides and base are dirty and rusty, so having the running surface of your model track bright and shiny is realistic.

                                     --Randy

 

[hardcoalcase]

The gleaming process has gotten much easier over the years.

I've been a gleaming fan ever since I first came across it in these Forums some 10 years (?) ago.  The process back then was to use 400 then 600 grit paper (then described as "super or ultra fine"), and finish it off with burnishing with the stainless steel washer.  As fine as #600 seemed to be at the time, it took a lot of burnishing (and elbow grease) to even approach a mirror finish.

Then I found that much finer grit papers were available.  Now my gleaming arsenel includes 1000, 2000, 4000, 6000, and 12,000 grit papers.  On the initial cleaning, I typically do one pass with each grit, cleaning the rail between each pass.  While I still finish up with a quick burnishing, the 12,000 grit produces a mirror finish by itself. 

Periodic cleaning is done by vacuuming the track, then with a loco pushing a masonite block car around for a few laps.  If something more is needed, only the higher grit papers are used.

Jim

 

[carl425]

Weren't we promised 30 years ago that DCC (or any Command Control) would relieve us from track cleaning duty forever?  The argument was the constant high voltage on the track would not be affected by dirt on the track like DC was when running slow at low voltage.

[selector]

CMStPnP

So DCE recommends DCC feeder wires approx every three feet so I am going with that recommendation ...

Far too much unnecessary work.  If you want to ensure every three feet of rails has positive power, simply solder every other joiner and have a feeder inserted into those soldered joiners.  With the solder making a first class joint, you get power moving in two opposite directions away from the joint and on to the next joint if that joint is not soldered.  If you solder that joint, you'll get robust voltage to the rails for another 3', now totaling 6' in each direction from that first soldered and fed joint.

This is what it would look like schematically:

======o=========x=========o=========x===

The x's are soldered joiners with feeders hammered to flat ends and inserted into the joiner....or soldered under the joiner.  As you can see, each fed and soldered joiner sends voltage two ways for a total of 6', and if you solder most joiners, your voltage will travel even further.  

For HO typical codes of N/S rail stock, a pair of 22 gauge feeders will adequately supply robust voltage for about 12 feet.  After that, the voltage degrades enough that you might begin to detect a reduction in performance.

[SeeYou190]

I do the gleaming step with a silver coin instead of a stainless steel washer.

Never need to do rail cleaning.

-Kevin

[rrinker]

 My last layout, all I ever did was the burnishing step. Never had to clean the track again.

                                   --Randy

 

[RR_Mel]

That is far too much elbow grease for an old man like me.  I simply use a CMX track cleaning tank car with ATC-6006 cleaning fluid.  I run it twice around my layout about once a month and after a sand storm.  I’ve never had a single problem since I started using that method, probably 10 or 12 years.


Mel


 
My Model Railroad  
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 

[peahrens]

CMStPnP

Anyone else out there that does this?    Here is the video explaining it..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pW6PrXmbNPU&t=435s

For me, the link above starts the video 7 minutes in.  I will add another link here that for me takes me to the beginning.

https://youtu.be/pW6PrXmbNPU

On the particulars, a few comments.  None meant to mean that there is only one way to approach the subject.

1.  I did the "gleam" method per the many times prior communicated approach.  I have a smallish layout so did not mind the two sandpaper steps included at the beginning.

2.  He mentions using polish as the gleaming final step, but he did not mention doing that again when going through the steps.

3.  On the gleaming burnishing step, use a stainless steel washer.  That step does take some time & effort, but you can feel the roughness disappear so you know when to move on.

4.  For occasional maintenance, I run a CMX car with denatured alcohol, always using a clean pad (a piece of corderoy, which is washable).  I believe many lean towards lacquer thinner as their preference, I just have not bothered to switch.  I would not use acetone myself for that purpose, as I presume it is more volatile and toxic and the denatured alcohol is quite adequate.  While polar, it dries in no time, so I presume any dirt attracted while drying is negligible.  (I read on another thread that mineral spirits is a non-polar solvent.)  Just my  take on that step.  I am not familiar with the CRC 2-26 and have not tried that additional maintenance step.

5. In the video, I did not think showing pouring IPA into a shot glass was prudent.  Of course it is not drinkable, as it is not (un-denatured) ethanol.  Just my reaction.

I am a big fan of gleaming and the CMX car for occasional cleaning.  I think the fact that I have few non-metal wheels on the fleet is also a help.  Plus usually including a John Allen masonite pad cleaning car in one of my freight trains.

[CMStPnP]

So DCE recommends DCC feeder wires approx every three feet so I am going with that recommendation and on the track cleaning which is really the second part of this......

So I am going to switch to this method as the video makes sense to me and I remember a long time ago doing this in the 1980's using a labelle oil based conductor and it did last a while.    Already bought the acetone and specialized tank car (you can buy the brass tank car via Amazon).    Going to give it a try.

Anyone else out there that does this?    Here is the video explaining it.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pW6PrXmbNPU&t=435s