I truly do appreciate everyone's suggestions in this problem of mine.
But I think I resolved it. I posted my woes in the Sprog BBS, and received an answer of "Did you try power cycling it?"
D'oh! Helpdesk 101!
I power cycled the Sprog itself after programming a loco. You can see the fruits of my labor here:
DIact17RQzo
That's why I said about using clip leads. And, it seems strange that if there is a short that the headlight would even light up.
At this point though, it could be anything, because this simply does not make the least bit of sense as described.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
One possibility that has not been suggested is, a short in the True Track terminal section where you connect the wires from the power input. Any way you can remove and/or replace this track section and put in a plain or replacement terminal track? Or remove it and use jumper wires to the rest of the loop and see what happens?
The only differences are the track, and the gauge of wire that the leads use. The EZ Track leads are heavier gauge.
The headlight is semi-controllable. Meaning that it responds to the light function but regardless of direction, it's only the front headlight.
I don't have clip leads handy, but I can rig something up. I have tried other terminal rail joiners too with no such luck.
SO, if you take exactly that, and simple change the connection at the SPROG to the Atlas track, no other changes whatsoever, it just doesn't work?
There has GOT to be something else changing. Simple loops of track don't do anything to DCC that would make the headlight work but nothign else. Is the headligh controlable, or is it just on? Get some clip leads, bypass the Atlas terminal track and run clip leads fromt eh SPROG to the rails.
Randy,
I just tried an oval of the True Track, no luck.
But to prove I'm not crazy, here's video of three TCS-equipped locos running on the EZ-Track:
BQHI0YZxLA
What about just a few straight sections of the Atlas track, no turnouts, nothign else? Does t work then, or not?
All True Track really is is Snap-Track with a palstic base, in fact you cna remove the base and it IS SNap-Track. As such, the turnouts are all live, no gaps or additional feeders are needed. But really, only two things can happen - open circuit, or a short. If there was a shor,t the headlight wouldn;t come on. If there was an open circuit, the headlight wouldn't come on.
Are you SURE the settings in JMRI are identical? Is this the same computer or just the same SPROG on two different computers? The Atlas track is about as simple as it gets, there ar eno funky combination rail joiners/roadbed clips, there are just ordinary standard metal joiners on each track section plus completely seperate plastic clips that are part of the roadbed.
Update:
Ive received a new Sprog 3 with a different 3amp power supply.
I assembled the True Track starter layout. Started Decoder Pro with Sprog in Programming mode. I was able to read and write to each of my T1-equipped GP9Ms, as well as run them (individually) from WiThrottle.
When I launch Panel Pro with Sprog in Operations mode, once again the only thing that functions is the front headlight.
I hooked the Sprog up to an oval of EZ Track, and everything ran fine. I was able to run both locomotives in Operations mode as well as build and break advanced consists. Im completely baffled.
Yup, that is exactly the situation. The only variable that I can't eliminate is that the EZ Command requires a wire with a headphone-jack style connector to connect to the base station. Even then, I still used the Atlas terminal connectors, connected to the EZ Command's lead. For the DC pack, same setup as the Sprog (using just the Atlas connectors.
Thanks,
Tim
That really doesn;t make a lick of sense that DC and EZ Command work on the Atlas track but the SPROG does not. Is EVERYTHIGN else identical? ie, take the track feed wires off the terminals of the SPROG and connect it to the DC power pack, and everything works? have to eliminate all variables. If that works, then I REALLY have to see this that the SPROG doesn't work connecting to the very same wires that work with a DC power pack. With a loco that runs on the SPROG on Bachmann track, and with a DC power pack on the Atlas track. It's just mind boggling.
Here's what works and what doesn't:
Bachmann EZ Track:
Works: DC, EZ Command, and Sprog3
Atlas True Track:
Works: DC and EZ Command
I did try using just a loop, no turnouts, no sidings with the True Track and the Sprog. Still didn't work.
I tested the EZ Command & True Track with a Tyco Super 630 with a TCS T1 installed that I had just finished wiring for my father. That loco has dirty wheels and it worked, all the way around including the siding. So it's not dirty track. I tested my Walthers GP9M with a TCS T1 on DC, and it ran the entire track without problems, including the siding. I'd have tried with the EZ Command, but I didn't want to have to reprogram the address on it. So I feel strongly in saying its not my locos either.
I have Proto 2000 and Atlas Gold locos with QSI decoders, but I didn't want to try those. Replacing a T1 is way cheaper than replacing a Revolution.
Or try making just a simple oval with the True Track, no turnouts, and see if that works. If so, maybe you have a defective turnout.
So connect the Bachmann to the Atlas track? It's a pretty basic simple track layout and the train should run anywhere on it, not flicker the lights. Does ANY loco run on the Atlas track? It could just be dirty.
Unless the wires are crossing within the terminals of the screw block on the Sprog itself, then no. But at the same time, tested by using another length of wire (16 gauge) from the Sprog to the Atlas terminal wires and the result was the same.
If there's something wrong with the Sprog, why does it work with the EZ Track? :(
Then it shoudl eb fine. Not sure if there is any option in JMRI to monitor what's goign on, but if simply switchign the connection to the Bachmann results in things working fine, then the problem is somewher eint eh SPROG or connection. Or the mode it is operating in. JMRI has all sorts of monitor screens to see commands and settings with Digitrax, not sure how much you cna see with SPROG, but that would be a palce to start, see if it's getting the proper commands and not acting on them, or if the commands are getting garbled. But the whole blinkign of the headling indicates power is being cut off. Sure there isn;t say a stray strand of wire bridging the two track terminals where the wires connect to the SPROG?
I am using the 3 amp power supply that came with the Sprog 3, directly from BBM Group.
It can handle up to 2.5 amps - but what power supply do you have plugged in?
Tried with JMRI's throttle. Still nothing.
I was able to get another loco (still with a TCS T1) to work with my EZ Command on the True Track.
I'm baffled.
Its a Sprog 3, so it's got 2.5amps available on the tracks, or so it says. These locos (and the Sprog for that matter) ran fine with the EZ Track.
Aside from the rails being smaller, the only difference I can come up with is that the EZ Track's plug and cable is 18 gauge and the Atlas terminal rail joiners' wire is 20 gauge.
Thanks for continuing to help.
Try it with a JMRI throttle instead of WiThrottle, just to eliminate one piece of the connection string. If it does the same thing with a local on-screen throttle, then something's wrong either with this loco or the SPROG. How big a power suppyl do you have? Maybe there is too much current draw. But if the other loco runs fine and this one doesn;t, it's almost certainly the loco.
Ok, so I built my setup again. Checked all my connections. Placed only one loco on the track.
Started JMRI in command mode, started the WiThrottle server. Turned teak power off then on (it starts as yellow). The LED nearest the USB port is solid, track/power is blinking.
If I start WiThrottle on my phone, the USB-end LED goes out and the front headlight comes on. I can press the light button on the throttle and the locomotive responds, but, not directionally. It's always the front. The loco does not respond to throttle commands in forward or reverse.
As soon as I minimize WiThrottle on my phone, the USB-side LED comes back on.
Adding a second set of terminal rail joiners on the other side of the loop doesn't solve the issue.
I even removed the switches and inner curve of track, making one very small oval. Still no dice.
I put the passing siding back in, hooked up a DC power pack, and the track works fine.
They all seemed to fit together well. I'll hopefully be able to do more troubleshooting this weekend. And I'll try adding additional feeders.
Youd think Atlas would include all the feeders needed in their "starter" set.
Thanks!
If the headlight LEDs are flickign then the power is being interrupted, either poor connection or short. But if you haven't parked anythign on the turnout it's hard for a loco to short the rails while sitting on a straight piece of track. I'm suspecting simpyl poor connection, probably at the point where yopu parked the first loco - the weight is pushing down on the rail joint and breakign the connection from a loose joiner.Or a missing one. There are I belioeve two joiners with the True Track, one for the plastic roadbed sections and a normal metal one on the rail. Or you might just need more feeders for reliable operation. The joiners should fit snugly, if they are loose you cna lightly crimp them down. This is a common fault with sectional track, the joiners fit too loose to give good electrical continuity around the layout.
Randy, just saw your reply. I am remembering to select the proper locos; I have each programmed for their own road numbers, and can consist them and break consist without issue. The LEDs that flicker are the front and rear headlights on the loco which (in my above example), was parked in the inner loop of the oval.
Im not using any insulating joiners and am using the terminal joiners (with awfully thin feeder wires) that were supplied. Also in the above example, the locos would be furthest away from the feeder wires.
Ok, so let's say 1600 is sitting on the large portion of the oval, the "mainline". 1709 is on the inner portion of the loop, both switches thrown.
The goal was to back 1600 up to 1709, couple & build a consist and pull two box cars out.
I back 1600 to the switch but don't cross onto it. I release it and grab 1709. 1709 will not move, but the LEDs are now flickering. At this point, WiThrottle is no longer responding.
Both of these locomotives have worked find on a plain oval of EZ Track using first an EZ Command and later my Sprog 3/WiThrottle combo.
Wait, are you selecting different addresses for each loco? ANd remember to switch addresses to control the second loco? WHat LEDs are flickering? The ones ont he SPROG? If so, and the loc doesn;t respond, you are more likely than not sending commands to the wrogn address.
The Atlas True Track turnouts are just liek the rest of True Track - Atlas COde 83 Smap Track on a plastic roadbed. You cna even remove the roadbed part, and it's exactly the same as the normal sectional track. SO - no power routing iin the turnouts, they are live all the way through, or should be, unless broken. You didn;t install plastic joiners, did you? If they are shown on the plan for the track pack, it's because they show it for wiring to Atlas electrical components, not DCC. For a basic oval with siding liek that, there is no need for any insualted joiners with DCC. You might need some extra feeders to make sure you have even power all the way around, but the train should run everywhere as is, just possibly some hesitation or slowing at the points furthest from where the feeders connect. Definitely not shorts.
O'Ghoul I had both switches thrown so the loco could enter and exit, yes. I don't think there's anything funny with the locomotives, but I'll double check. I can have one loco on the mainline which will run fine (didn't test crossing the switch) and the loco on the siding won't respond, in fact the LEDs will flicker (in the appropriate direction) if I try to send it a command.
I had both switches thrown so the loco could enter and exit, yes. I don't think there's anything funny with the locomotives, but I'll double check.
I can have one loco on the mainline which will run fine (didn't test crossing the switch) and the loco on the siding won't respond, in fact the LEDs will flicker (in the appropriate direction) if I try to send it a command.
Now I'm confused. Do all of your locos seem to short going through same switch? Forwards and backwards?
If the LEDs light when an engine is sitting on the siding, it's getting power.
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O'Ghoul It's the Starter Set, so it's just an oval with a passing siding. A right and left hand turnout.
It's the Starter Set, so it's just an oval with a passing siding. A right and left hand turnout.
OK. I don't believe that the True Track turnouts are power routing, but just to narrow things down. Does this happen when both turnouts are set to the siding? Does it happen when the engine goes in forward and reverse?
I wonder if there might be something touching within the engine that causes a short when passing through the turnout. This twists the trucks in relation to one another in ways that don't happen when just going around curves.