Hi Everyone, first of all excited to be here. I recently bought a dcc sound train and I really like it. Since that I have been thinking about converting a dc train to dcc sound.
Can someone please help me identify this train so I can upgrade to DCC with Sound? I bought this on kijiji and the box says (difficult to read) SD40-2. I want to make sure it is that so I can buy the right decoder for it.
The SoundTraxx site suggests to use a TSU-21PNEM8 | 885809 for SD40-2 but for 2018+ versions. My train is definitely not 2018+ model. Can I use the TSU-PNP8 | 885813 instead? I see this one used on older models and I can find one for $60 USD.
Do you recommend something else than this decoder?
Thank you in advance.
https://imgur.com/a/AyQYKVS
https://imgur.com/a/Pt5KbKX
The locomotive in your picture is an Athearn Blue Box SD40-2. I have four of them running nicely off MRC 1730 decoders.Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Turned 84 in July, aging is definitely not for wimps.
I would think that you could name your own poison here.
You have the TSC WOW, ESU's decoders,Zimo plus the Soundtraxx.
I never have had much luck with the MRC's ,but ymmv
we want to see the pics
The TCS site is useful for it's installation pictures. This is not a sound decoder, but it shows you what you have to do. However you also have to find space for a speaker.
https://tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/1061
I have no experience with Soundtraxx or MRC.
If you go ESU (Loksound) they come as a generic decoder and nearly all dealers will install the sound package that goes with your particular engine.
Judging by the corrosion on the metal strips, you would do well by googling Athearn Blue Box Tune Up to improve electrical pickup.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Mo AnwarDo you recommend something else than this decoder?
Hi Mo Anwar,
I'm partial to ESU decoders (Loksound). I understand that TCS decoders are excellent too.
This would be a suitable decoder. You would not use the 8 pin plug. It would be cut off and all the wires would be soldered to their various connections:
https://tonystrains.com/product/esu-58420-loksound-v5-dcc-8-pin-sound-decoder-factory-sound-file-no-programming
As was suggested, you might want to look at the TCS installation information because there are a couple of things that will need to be done to your locomotive before installing the decoder, specifically isolating the motor electrically and removing one of the connector bars.
The installation method shown in the TCS tutorial is the basic method. Better, more reliable results can be achieved by soldering the black and red wires directly to the axle pickups in both trucks. That eliminates mechanical connections which can cause problems over time. You will need some extra decoder wire to connect the front and back trucks. Tony's can supply that.
If I can suggest, you might want to decide on a particular decoder brand and stay with that brand for future installations. My reasoning is simple. Decoders function slightly differently from one maker to the next. If you have a variety of brands you will have to remember which commands do what with which decoder. For example, the start up command(s) for one brand may differ from another brand. If all your decoders come from one source, they will all operate the same way. I.e. F8 will do exactly the same thing on each of your locomotives. Also, all your locomotives will work the same way when you are doing any programming. I have a mishmash of various brands but I am slowly converting them all to Loksound.
Another thing I would suggest is converting your incandescent headlight bulb to an LED. The Athearn bulbs are notorious for burning out. Depending on which decoder you decide on, you may or may not have to put a resistor in series with the LED. 1000 ohms is often what is used.
Cheers,
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Hi there. Three thoughts:
- I installed a sound decoder for the same type of engine. One of the challenges is that the loco is quite long, and that wires tend to sag down on the flywheels and shafts. Using silicone, I applied two strips of thin plastic sheets on the motor, extending over the flywheels, to prevent the wires from touching. I also used silicone to "glue" the speaker on the underside of the shell.
-You may have to change the wheelsets to get better performance. I can't tell from the pictures, but if they have an "aluminum" appearance, it is the old generation that gets dirty very fast. I changed mine (adds to the cost, unfortunately), but only 8 wheels (4 axles) were changed. Athearn sells polished wheels replacements. You don't need to do this right away - you will soon find out if your conditions require it.
- Decoders from different makes come in different sizes, capacity and price range. For that reason, I have many makes serving on my layout. In all cases, you should keep the instructions, write down the loco info on it (make, number, road, CV information), and store if for future references. In some cases, I needed to download and print them. It is well worth the effort.
This loco is very robust - it will take rough handling and will run for years without problem. In my opinion, renovating these engines is well worth the effort for these reasons. But I always keep an eye on costs...
Simon
Tsunami TSU2200 small factor decoder is the best to fit and you'll also have space for a keep-alive. I did that on one my SD40 loco and happy with the choice.
Keep in mind for a hardwire "blue box" installation, you have to remove the motor and insulate it from the frame.