If your tracks are nicely laid, and you'd rather not pick any of them out of the plan and set them with new gaps, you're pretty much left with cutting gaps. How you do that is up to you, your skill, your experience, and your courage...or maybe your conviction.
I resort to a jeweler's saw with the hairlike filamental blade, but that's when using a jig to hand-lay turnouts where I have to gap the frog to isolate it. If my rails are being laid, I lay them so that there is at least a 1/16" gap...no plastic joiners for me. If they are in place, then I resort to a Dremel cut-off disk, the largest I can get so that it stays cool and won't shatter, and whose large diameter allows me to orient the whole flexible tool so that the spinning disk is at right angles to the bearing surface atop the rail. However, even if you don't have that flexible armoured cable, you can still use a disk, but the cut will have to be angled.
The key is to prevent the disk's side from snagging one of the rail ends and lifting about five inches of rail out of the tiny plastic spikehead details. That's absolutely what you do not want to happen. So, figure out how to hold the disk steady and to make a clean cut, but also maybe clamp those rail ends on either side of the cut.
If you have a Dremel tool the angle head attachment with a cutoff disk works great. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
I used a Dremel, and I didn't fill the gap with anything, and no problems.
Filling the gap with something would be up to you.
Mike.
My You Tube
Put me in the Dremel camp as well. 80% of full speed, and slow and steady. As that old woodworkers saying goes, let the tool do the work. And by all means wear eye protection, as the disks can fly apart Even when being carefu. That's why you must go easy. Plus, I have always nailed two ties on both sides of the cut to fully stabilize the cutting process. You might notice you are cutting at a beveled angle, but no worries. It won't affect the final result. I also dont bother to fill the gap. I have had zero issues with this process. Good luck.
Tophias Put me in the Dremel camp as well. 80% of full speed, and slow and steady. As that old woodworkers saying goes, let the tool do the work. And by all means wear eye protection, as the disks can fly apart Even when being carefu. That's why you must go easy. Plus, I have always nailed two ties on both sides of the cut to fully stabilize the cutting process. You might notice you are cutting at a beveled angle, but no worries. It won't affect the final result. I also dont bother to fill the gap. I have had zero issues with this process. Good luck.
That’s why I bought the Dremel angle attachment, with the angle attachment you can make perfect straight cuts. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Some years ago our club did this on an HO layout using a Dremel diamond wheel from Amazon. It came with a mandrel.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I recall reading several DCC horror stories about having your programming track not properly isolated from your main. In some cases the "pros" suggested a barrier track between the two so that there could never be a case where the wheels of a car or locomotive could physically bridge the gap.
Both my programming locations are completely isolated from the main line. Just a point you may want to look into before making your final plans.
https://dccwiki.com/Programming_Track
Good Luck, Ed
My layout is strictly DC, but when I need gaps to control certain sections of track, I use a cut-off disc mounted on the flex shaft of my motor tool. Depending on the size of the disc, the gap may be vertical or angled - either way will create a suitable gap.I then insert a small piece of dark grey ABS sheet plastic into the gap and secure it with ca. After the glue has set, I use a sharp blade in my X-Acto to trim the top flush with the railheads, and then shave the sides to match the profile of the rails...
Wayne
Good point - not all plastic is white. The grey blends in nicely.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I'd suggest using a lighter color of plastic to fill in the gaps by this method, as it will be less evident looking at the railheads. If the 'sides' are too obvious they can be spot-painted, or if the rail sides are show-painted, colored to match. You almost certainly can't paint the railheads in a way that would last.
Mel (I believe) has also suggested using one of the epoxy compounds to fill the gap, tooling it comparably once the material has fully cured. I don't know how 'conductive' the compositions that are 'metal-bearing' are, but I'd avoid them even though they might be attractively 'silvery' until proven they serve as proper insulators under all conditions.
If there are any concerns whatsoever that your trackwork may have to 'move' with changes in environment or season -- fill your gaps. If you solder your joints -- fill your gaps. If you are concerned with precise rail alignment or smooth transition -- make up a jig to keep the rails aligned either side of the gap, with access in the middle, and ... fill your gaps.
Thank you for all of your replies. I am ready to gap my tracks!
Jack
I've used Demel cut-off discs hundreds of times and if you are not careful, there can be enough heat generated when cutting rail to soften or melt ties. I've taken to putting heat sinks on when I am cutting rail with the cutoff discs. I'd expect the same thing to occur when cutting a gap.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
starman I am installing a programming section on one of my sidings.
Disclaimer: I am not a DCC guy.
Everyone I know who uses DCC does their programming on a test track section away from the layout. I don't know the ins-and-outs, but it is my understanding that having a programming track on the layout is a bad idea.
gmpullmanI recall reading several DCC horror stories about having your programming track not properly isolated from your main.
I just saw Ed's reply on a read-through of this thread.
Having the programming track off of the layout sounds best.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Hello All,
For installed trackage a razor saw will be the least expensive option.
If you have a rotary tool the investment in an angled head will save time.
Once the gaps are cut many suggest filling the gap(s) with some sort of material from epoxy to styrene.
This is especially applicable in environments where track expansion is possible.
One suggestion I have heard of is, after the gaps are cut, use the plastic "C" shaped ties that come on loaves of bread.
I'm not suggesting pilfering your local groceries bread aisle for them but they seem to be everpresent in our kitchen.
Cut the plastic to a rough shape and cement it in place with CA.
After the CA has dried use a hobby knife to trim the plastic and then, with a jewelers file, make smooth.
On the gauge (inside) of the rails, you don't have to make the "plug" conform to the shape of the rails but you do need to make the "plug" flush with the top of the gage side.
Depending on the color of the bread tie used- -red for example- -you don't need to mark the gap.
Or, if you prefer, you can paint the plastic to hide the gap.
Hope this helps.
Post Script: For gaps in my trackage I use plastic insulated rail joiners that have a small protrusion in the middle to prevent the rails from expanding and touching. H.T.H.- -J.J.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Why put use a siding for programming track? You can just use some spare track, attach alligator clips to each one and the other ends to the wires for the control panel. Having an indepenendent track arrangement avoids any progamming issues.
A dremel is a great tool also for ensuring turnouts work properly if there's plastic or metal that prevents a clean electrical connection. I don't have it but swear by a razor saw. While more time consuming, I don't trust myself with power tools except a drill!
kasskaboose Why put use a siding for programming track? You can just use some spare track, attach alligator clips to each one and the other ends to the wires for the control panel. Having an indepenendent track arrangement avoids any progamming issues. ..
..
kasskabooseWhy put (to) use a siding for programming track? You can just use some spare track, attach alligator clips to each one and the other ends to the wires for the control panel. Having an indepenendent (SIC) track arrangement avoids any progamming (SIC) issues.
The OP asked, "How To Do This..."
Respectfully- -not, "Why To Do This..."
On my pike I have both.
I have a separate "service track" on a piece of 1"x4" board; 30-inches long, powered through my desktop with Decoder Pro.
There is also a section of track on the pike that is isolated and automatically shifts from a "normal" section of track to a "programming on 'service' track" with the use of an NCE Auto SW.
The advantage of having both is, you can perform the initial setup with DecoderPro, and its protected environment, then "introduce" the new motive power to the Command Station/Booster on the pike at full voltage.
Hopefully avoiding the release of, "The Magic Blue Smoke" from the newly installed components.