Hi folks,
Our club had a 'running' session last Tuesday and it became pretty clear that tethered throttles are not ideal for a club layout. What is required to change to radio control?
I looked at the Digitrax website and from what I can see, all that is required is a UR92 front panel and radio equipped throttles. Is that all there is to it?
Thanks,
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
hon30critter Is that all there is to it?
Yep! Plug the UR-92 anywhere along the Loconet newtwork. I found that I had to mount mine up toward the ceiling otherwise the signal path was interrupted.
Your layout is in a fairly open area so you may get by OK with just one UR-92. I had to have three. The 2.4 gHz signal seems susceptable to lots of interference.
From what I gather, Digitrax is no longer offering the older simplex devices and everything now is duplex.
I've had radio all along, well since 2002 when I first installed the Digitrax. Still, it has run nearly flawlessly. I upgraded to "Duplex" around 2015. Sent both my throttles back to Digitrax and they converted them for about $30. each.
If you use JMRI you can get another throttle there and you can download "Engine Driver" and use Android phones and devices as throttles, too.
Hope that helps, Ed
Hi Ed,
That helps a lot. Thanks.
"The only stupid question is the one you don't ask". What is the difference between 'simplex' and 'duplex'?
Thanks
Simplex is one-way communication. Duplex two way.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
ANd you don;t have to worry about that since Digitrax no longer sells the simplex system.
Do be sure to use the PS14 power supply with each UR92. It might APPEAR to work just drawing power from the Loconet but it won't perform properly and it may completely die if enough throttles get plugged in and pull the Loconet voltage down.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Hi there, I strongly recommend the Digitrax Wifi device that allows you to use your smartphone. I don't even bother bringing my digitrax throttles to the club anymore...
Simon
I would hate using a touch screen to control trains. Much prefer a real knob.
rrinkerDo be sure to use the PS14 power supply with each UR92.
I found that little detail out the hard way!
When I upgraded everything th Duplex I simply plugged the power supply into my existing, dedicated 12 VDC supply.
The 14 volts specified by Digitrax for the UR92 was a little detail I missed. Reception improved considerably with the extra 2 volts. I also updated the firmware through the Digitrax update downloads.
Cheers, Ed
rrinkerDo be sure to use the PS14 power supply with each UR92. It might APPEAR to work just drawing power from the Loconet but it won't perform properly and it may completely die if enough throttles get plugged in and pull the Loconet voltage down.
Hi Randy,
Thanks for pointing that out.
snjroyI strongly recommend the Digitrax Wifi device that allows you to use your smartphone.
Hi Simon,
I'm pretty sure that most of our club members don't have smart phones. A couple are still using flip phones.
You can have the throtles converted to wireless. Joe
http://www.digitrax.com/support/conversions/
riogrande wrote: "I would hate using a touch screen to control trains. Much prefer a real knob."
I'm the opposite. After using the Roco z21 system (in combination with a Samsung Android tablet which displays two engine controls side-by-side) I could never use one of those wired controllers that has more buttons than an Texas Instruments scientific calculator.
Yet working on the big engines, I preferred "old-style" controls, such as real air gauges (instead of digital displays) and traditional 26-style brake equipment to digital-air brake valves.
But for the models -- give me a touchpad and graphical interface with icons!
ba&prrYou can have the throtles converted to wireless. Joe
Hi Joe,
Yes, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that. The cost is quite reasonable IMHO.
OldEnginemanAfter using the Roco z21 system (in combination with a Samsung Android tablet which displays two engine controls side-by-side) I could never use one of those wired controllers that has more buttons than an Texas Instruments scientific calculator.
OldEngineman,
You raise a very interesting point! Your comparison of the Digitrax throttles to an original Texas Instruments calculator is spot on. I hate Digitrax throttles! I have an NCE Power Cab at home and I am much more comfortable with it.
When I present the possibility of going wireless to the club I will include the Android WiFi option. Personally, I'm not willing to spend the money on a new cell phone or tablet. I'd rather force myself to become comfortable with the Digitrax throttles.
Thanks for your input!
snjroy Hi there, I strongly recommend the Digitrax Wifi device that allows you to use your smartphone. I don't even bother bringing my digitrax throttles to the club anymore... Simon
While I don''t use the digitrax LNWI interface, I do use wifi throttles on my layout. If you google search "simplified WiFi throttle" (can't link it since our Overlords don't like it when we link to that "other" magazine) It has a wonderfull little wifi throttle that uses the same protocol as Engine Driver and Withrottle. The gentlemen that wrote the article has a full list of all the materials you need as well as his code.
It doesn't do all the functions (throwing turnouts, consisting) like a DT-XXX throttle would do but does work great for just running a locomotive and controlling its functions.
What I love about it is that it's completely wireless, no plugging in at all, runs off a standard WiFi router (which I have a dedicated one just for the train layout) and its a duplex system. Theres something to be said for using Wifi, as seems way more stable to me than that almost any system's radio throttles.
Just an option, take it or leave it but so far I love my simple Wifi throttles. Granted I am a bit of a nerd and overengineer alot of things.
Here is a rendition of my version of the simplified wifi throttle. I love having a knob and direction switch to control trains. I made F2 a push button at the top to be able to blow horn with my sound units. each of the other rocker switches is for F0-F6. The top rocker switch is a power switch to be able to turn throttle on and off without having to take out the 9V battery. Another thing is that I get about 9 hours of battery life out of this throttle before I have to recharge the battery. It is super low power and the screen is actually the largest current draw and not the microcontroller. Price is also worth it. Right now they are about $70 or less in parts depending on how complicated you go with it.
Colorado Front Range Railroad: http://www.coloradofrontrangerr.com/
OldEnginemanriogrande wrote: "I would hate using a touch screen to control trains. Much prefer a real knob." I'm the opposite. After using the Roco z21 system (in combination with a Samsung Android tablet which displays two engine controls side-by-side) I could never use one of those wired controllers that has more buttons than an Texas Instruments scientific calculator. ... But for the models -- give me a touchpad and graphical interface with icons!
Wellllllll. As it just so happens, there is such a beast which gives you a graphical interface touch screen but has a throttle knob that lets you control the speed WITHOUT you having to take your eyes off the train to make sure your finger is in the right place on a trouch pad.
http://www.esu.eu/en/products/digital-control/cabcontrol/
Sure, I get the bazillion button aversion, but you don't have to throw out the baby (physical rotary throttle control) with the bath water (bazillion buttons).
I've had issues enough not holding my finger in the right spot of the touch screen on my Android phone that I am sure I wouldn't want a touch screen throttle. No way.
Well, I got the responses from several club members to my suggestion about going wireless and the answer is a firm "NO". All we need to do to eliminate the tangled thottle cables is to install more UT4s. They used the example of one of our local modellers who routinely has eight or nine operators working in a smaller space than our club layout occupies and nobody gets strangled (pardon the exaggeration) by the cords. He has UT4s every 6 - 8 feet.
Thanks for your input. I'm just enough of an sob to buy my own UR92 and my own radio equipped throttle and install them at the club. Then I will be free of the tethers. Others just might follow suit.
I'm sure you mean UP5s. UT4's are the throttles. Be sure to supply power to the UP5's if everyone is goign to plug in. The BEST way is to run a short bus between groups of UP5's and tap off with the 2.1mm connector that plugs in the side. The Digitrax way shown in the instructions works, for some definition of 'works' because running that single wire relies on the Loconet cable for the ground connection of the power source and the whole point of powering the UP5 is because too many throttles plugged in cause too much voltage drop on the thing phone cord.
How many UP5's per power supply? Well, that depends on how many throttles are expected in a given area. Out on the road, between switching areas, you migh tonly ever get one or 2 plugged in in passing as someone folows their train along the main line. In congested switching areas, maybe you get 4 people all plugged in right near each other.
I will bet (and probably win) that if you get a UR92 and upgrade your throttle to wireless, as soon as the others see you using it, they will want to do the same. Besides the cords getting in the way, the other thing about always plugging in is that the plastic phone plugs on the cables were never really designed for constant plugging and unplugging - how often do you actually move a phone around? They will wear out, or the tabs will break off, then someone will have to crimp new ends on the cords for the throttle to work again.
The thing is that you don't need to go all the way with only one solution. The wifi system can operate in parallel with the traditional throttles. The problem with the digitrax wireless throttles is that the batteries don't last very long, and the signal is quite weak. And consisting is way easier to do with the smartphone device. Anyway, to each his own.
rrinkerI'm sure you mean UP5s. UT4's are the throttles.
Yes, your are correct. I am easily confused by the Digitrax nomenclature.
rrinkerBe sure to supply power to the UP5's if everyone is goign to plug in.
We already have the power supply set up. I'm not sure if it is a bus or a single wire. I suspect the later. I will check with our master electrician.
rrinkerHow many UP5's per power supply? Well, that depends on how many throttles are expected in a given area. Out on the road, between switching areas, you migh tonly ever get one or 2 plugged in in passing as someone folows their train along the main line. In congested switching areas, maybe you get 4 people all plugged in right near each other.
How many UP5s per power supply do you recommend assuming that there will be three or four throttles plugged in close together?
Thanks Randy,
SOmewhere it says wht the throttles draw maximum (with the backlight on max brightness, etc). If you run a single power supply bus for the panels, and used something liek a 2.5-3 amp power supply it should be plenty. But if you do use a large power supply, put a fuse at each tap to the plug for the panel (the 2.1mm jacks), you don't want a short (such as the little pins in the socket getting bent on top of one another) putting 3 amps through one fo the panels, it will fry the panel. ANd since any given panel support 2 throttles, there's never any need for current in the amp range to be supplied. Also, the UT4 throttles draw a lot less than the DT40x models, no LCD with backlight (the backlight is the power hog).
I know somewhere there is a wiring diagram on how to do this right (ie, not the way sugested by DIgitrax in the UP5 instruction sheet). But really, it is a 2 wire DC power bus with taps to 2.1mm connectors that match up with the power socket on the side of the UP5. Polarity matters, I THINK the outside barrel is - but don't quote me on that - if you have a handy one of the PS14 power supplies that Digitrax sells, check the output with the meter in volts mode. If I had a UP5 in front of me I could tell you but I'm a long way from home, in Bossier City, LA.