ChesterJoe,
To The Forums......being a new member, You will be moderated for about five posts, so Your posts will not show up immediately....so keep that in mind.
The Tyco switches are very similar to the Atlas Snap Switch, with plastic insulated frogs that relied on the points and hinge points to carry power from the stock rails to the rails after the frog. In time those hinge points lose contact due to corrosion/oxidation....sometimes cleaning with a electrical cleaner will work for awhile, sometimes not. Enclosed is a pic' of an Atlas Snap Switch which should look almost exactly like Yours. Hopefully You know how to solder, because that is what You will need to do to correct Your power loss.......do not rely on rail joiners for power pick-up...they also lose contact over time....DC/DCC it doesn't matter...it will work for both:
Good Luck!
Frank
Just to be totally clear about Frank's drawing: use a wire to connect the "plus points". use another wire to connect the "minus points".
The easiest (but NOT the best) way to do that is to get some Atlas 842's:
You can connect the wires under the table and you're done.
Again: there are better ways, but none easier.
Ed
If LION recalls correctly the Tyco switches were steel and not Nickle-Silver, ergo lots of electrical problems.
Next, If you had a loop with a siding then having a switch that cut power to the siding would be a good thing and not a bad thing.
LION uses Atlas Switches with power on both legs and he gaps them so that the route controls the power. Him likes that better, but then LION *likes* complicated.
ROAR
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