I recently bought a Bachmann E-Z command decoder to put in my athearn RTR GP50. The loco has 8 holes and the decoder has 8 pins. Unlike the other decoders and videos I have seen, this decoder does not seem to fit in the place where the jumper board was. Is this the correct decoder or do I need a new one? How would I install this one? What other decoder would you reccomend?
Pictures of my dilemma:
http://imgur.com/gallery/YnFrU
http://imgur.com/gallery/f1RQY
http://imgur.com/gallery/2okEm
One of the problems with installing a decoder is finding a space to locate it. For a hood diesel, often you can find space at the back end of the long hood or inside the cab. Attach it to the shell with double sided tape.
One VERY important item with decoder installs on Athearn RTR and Blue Box locos. Have you pulled the motor and cut the tab on the bottom that is the power pickup to the frame for the bottom motor brush? If you have not done this, you will fry the decoder.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Those decoders are low end Lenz and many replacxe them when they come in a Bachamann loco. I have.
A Digitrax or TCS decoder will be smaller.
The Digitrax DZ126 is much smaller. I have used it. A much better decoder.
Google both companies. The decoder specs with sizes are online.
They come with or witout the eight pin plug.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
BNModeler,
I would look at TCS decoders - e.g. their DP2X. It should plug right into the 8-pin NMRA socket and you won't have to hassle with a harness. If you need the harness because space is a premium, their M1 decoder should fit the bill. (Note: You'll need to differentiate what kind of harness you need and the orientation of the 8-pin plug) I would also verify the above by emailing TCS.
While TCS decoders are a bit more expensive than the low-end Lenz you just purchased, they have EXCELLENT motor-control and are my defacto decoder for motor-only DCC installations.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
That's the same 8 pin plug and 8 pin socket - they should go together just fine.
However, there are better decoders, often for less money than what bachmann charges for that one - unless you got it super cheap.
Another good choice would be the TCS T1A, no harness. You see that white thing sticking up from the loco on that stalk of wires? That's a 9 pin DCC plug which will plug right in to the TCS T1.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Here is a comparison of decoder sizes if it is a concern.
Bachmann
25 x 16 x 5 mm
TCS T1
24.28mm x 16.63mm x 5.25mm
Digitrax DZ126PS
11.56mm x 9.37mm x 3.2mm
TCS MI
14.4mm x 9.12mm x 3.43mm
You can also cut the 9 pin connector out for more room for the Bachmann if that is all you have.
Choices. Some are happy with the EZ Command. Some not.
I would not install the Bachmann decoder in any locomotive
RR Baron
Thank you for the reccomendations. I have been doing some reasearch and I'd like a 9 pin decoder because it seems a whole lot easier. Would these be quality decoders that would work with my GP50? If so, should I get a 2 Function or A four Function?
https://www.amazon.com/Decoder-Wire-Harness-4-Function-1-3A/dp/B00AEQ17V6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1484184795&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=TCS+1024+T4X
https://www.amazon.com/HO-Decoder-T1A-2-Function-1-3A/dp/B00AEQ1982/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484184844&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=ho+decoder+tcs+t1a
RR BaronI would not install the Bachmann decoder in any locomotive
Same here! I use Loksound products and they are fantastic.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
BNModeler7 Thank you for the reccomendations. I have been doing some reasearch and I'd like a 9 pin decoder because it seems a whole lot easier. Would these be quality decoders that would work with my GP50? If so, should I get a 2 Function or A four Function? https://www.amazon.com/Decoder-Wire-Harness-4-Function-1-3A/dp/B00AEQ17V6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1484184795&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=TCS+1024+T4X https://www.amazon.com/HO-Decoder-T1A-2-Function-1-3A/dp/B00AEQ1982/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484184844&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=ho+decoder+tcs+t1a
Unless you need to add extra lights to your model, you don't need the top one, it has 4 functions. If you plan to add ditch lights, then that's the one you want. For plain headlights, the bottom one, the T1A, is just fine.
Hello all,
In looking at the photos you posted I noticed; in the third photo, on the PCB attached to the chassis, there is an 8-pin NMRA compliant plug; with the dummy plug removed (the black receptacle).
Also, I observed in the same photo, that there is also a 9-pin plug (the white receptacle).
The decoder that you pictured plugs into the black receptacle; 8-pin NMRA plug. The orange wire on the PCB plug on the decoder mates with #1 socket on the receptacle on the PCB. This should be noted on the PCB attached to the chassis.
The 9-pin plug is not used.
From there you can use Kapton tape or double-sided tape to attach the decoder to the gear tower. Then program away.
You can use a Digitrax 9-pin decoder rather than the Bachmann 8-pin NMRA decoder.
To do this you will need to replace the dummy plug in the 8-pin NMRA plug. Again, aligning the #1 pin to the #1 socket.
The Digitrax decoders come with a 9-pin to 8-pin harness. You will not need this harness. Just plug the decoder into the 9-pin socket and program away.
I have used aftermarket Bachmann decoders in some of my motive power. They can be cheap but do not support many CVs.
I have also had great luck with Digitrax DH126p. These decoders support many more CVs and as I said before, will plug directly into the 9-pin socket.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Hello,
I got the Decoder in the mail today. I have installed it into the lococmotive. Do I have to do anything else or can I run it now?
BNModeler7 Hello, I got the Decoder in the mail today. I have installed it into the lococmotive. Do I have to do anything else or can I run it now?
Is the motor isolated from the frame? What you have is a hot frame locomotive. You need to pull the motor out (either 4 screws on the bottom of the fuel tank or just rubber mounts press fit into the fuel tank). Verify that there is no tab under the motor touching the frame. Depending on the vintage of locomotive this tab may or may not be present.
From the appearance of the lighting board, you have a wire going to the lower motor contact. This is a good sign that there is not connection to the frame; however, I would check anyway.
If the tab is present your decoder will be cooked on initial application of power.
There should not be anything installed in the 8pin socket if you are using a 9pin decoder. The plug that goes in the 8pin socket is for DC use only (in effect it will do exactly the same thing as having the motor connected to the frame of the locomotive with the tab.
For future reference any locomotive that has those metal tabs coming out of the locomotive trucks has a hot frame.
Edit:
Also most people will recommend that you remove those plastic clips one at a time and solder the wires to the tabs. Saves headaches later. They do not provide a good connection.
is this the tab?
The RTR design (at least the ones thathave the board clipped on top for the decoder socket) are different from Blue Box in that the frame is hot but the motor is isolated. There is nothing wrong with that and it generally will not cause any problems, unless all metal couplers are used and two units are coupled back to front.
What's a potential problem and a decoder waiting to blow up is the type of loco where the pickups are isolated from the frame, but one side of the motor is connected to the frame - like the Proto 200 S1. Derail once and get a wheel touching the frame and poof goes the decoder.
Is this the tab you are speaking of or is this something different?
http://imgur.com/gallery/UUu5w
That's where it would BE - the RTR locos (at least oens that have the circuit board on top) don't have the tab. The old Blue Box locos, on that clip there would be a punched out section bent down to rub the frame when the motor was installed.
You can see the tabs there. To put a decoder in one of those locos, you must get rid of the tabs - the easiest thing to do is swap the top and bottom clip, as the top clip does nto have the tabs. And still put a layer of insulating tape under the motor to make sure it can't touch the frame. A wire gets soldered on to conenct to the decoder - on your RTR loco it's that black wire goiing up on the left side of the motor. End result is a motor that looks like yours, just with no pc board to clip on the top with a handy decoder socket.