i want to strip my buss wire intermediately so I can solder in my feeders along the way. Any good way to do this? I believe there are some special wire strippers I can buy but they are expensive
Just by the correct tool, it will save many headaches. They aren;t that expensive. This right here is what you want:
https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-45-292-Stripmaster-Wire-Stripper/dp/B000NBA8GM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479819953&sr=8-1&keywords=ideal+stripmaster
The Ideal Stripmaster. You can strip sections of wire in the middle of a run, not just the ends. And it handles all sizes from 10 to 22, so it will also strip the ends of your feeder wires to wrap around the bus wire. This one I linked is on sale, under $30. They also have these or an identical Klein version at the big box stores. Worth its weight in gold.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I will second that suggestion. The Stripmaster is the best investment you will make for doing your DCC bus wiring...
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I'll third it!.......LOL.
Take Care!
Frank
This Irwin Vice Grip model is one I acquired and used. Maybe a bit bulkier but $20 vs $27. It performed fine for me and the reviews are good. I'm sure either would be ok.
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-VISE-GRIP-Self-Adjusting-Stripper-2078300/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479826315&sr=1-1&keywords=irwin+wire+stripping+tool
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Thanks y'all, I just purchased the tool from Amazon. i thought it cost about $45. Glad I found a cheaper one and now I don't have to try to strip it using a pocket knife! :s
If you have a Home Depot within reasonable driving distance, and can drive, see them. They have a stripper like that. It's what I use.
Paul, I must say, I've used those kind of strippers before and I just do not like them. They 'self adjust' for the wire size based on having a spring behind the blade. The Ideal ones are a bit more fussy to use but that is because the blade die has a hole sized for each wire type, less chance of nicking one of the conductors. There is a third type of self adjusting one that pulls the wire in parallel to the handles - that type is also not suitable for stripping the middle of a wire run, at least this one can make a worthwhile attempt at it. Just my thoughts having used both types - the extra cost of the Ideal is well worth it.
rrinkerPaul, I must say, I've used those kind of strippers before and I just do not like them. They 'self adjust' for the wire size based on having a spring behind the blade. The Ideal ones are a bit more fussy to use but that is because the blade die has a hole sized for each wire type, less chance of nicking one of the conductors. There is a third type of self adjusting one that pulls the wire in parallel to the handles - that type is also not suitable for stripping the middle of a wire run, at least this one can make a worthwhile attempt at it. Just my thoughts having used both types - the extra cost of the Ideal is well worth it. --Randy
Randy,
This is a great example of the value of the forum, encouragement for folks to ask questions, plus encouragement for others to add value with what they know.
I don't think I asked on the wire strippers before choosing. I relied on the Amazon overall rating of 4-1/2 stars, and at this price point did not scrutinize the few lower ratings that might have clued me in to potential issues. (I probably did not know enough to interpret those anyway.) I was much more careful in choosing suitcase connector pliers because I had enough info on that issue to choose carefully. While I have not had issues with the Irwin stripper, the use has been limited and I would have certainly popped for another $7 for a better tool. I could have asked, is the point.
So, thanks for adding the detail. It will benefit those who have not yet made the purchase.
If you're using suitcase connectors (and wise choice getting the REAL crimpers, despite the cost. Ordinary pliers just don;t cut it), you probbaly don;t need to strip in the middle of the run liek I do - I solder all my feeders to the bus, and I tend to use LOTS of feeders - with Atlas turnouts for example, one turnout has 3 pairs of feeders.
one thing no one has mentioned is to use unshilded wire it cost less than insulated wire , if you have to cross the wires then just get a can of liquid tape other than that just staple to cross members , or if your worried about shorts than whap a bit of a old bleach bottle around wire before you drive staple in .
zstripe I'll third it!.......LOL. Take Care! Frank
I fourth Randy's suggestion, they are the best.
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
rrinkerPaul, I must say, I've used those kind of strippers before and I just do not like them. They 'self adjust' for the wire size based on having a spring behind the blade.
I have the one Paul pointed out and have been using it for 3 years without issue. I'm looking at mine right now and the only spring on the tool is the one that pulls the jaws open. There is no spring behind the blade. Perhaps you are thinking of a different model.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
There has to be something behind the blade to allow it to not just cut right into the wire but instead just cut into the insulation and then stop.
rrinkerThere has to be something behind the blade to allow it to not just cut right into the wire but instead just cut into the insulation and then stop.
When you squeeze the handle, first the jaw on the left comes down to grab the wire, then what you call the blade comes down on the right. Once the jaws both are against the wire, it pulls the insulation off the right side.
The "blade" is not at all sharp. If you look at the insulation after stripping (with magnification), it looks more like it has been broken apart rather than having been cut. I don't think the "blade" actually touches the copper until it has moved beyond the spot where it was initially grabbed.
Since you piqued my curiosity, I just made some test strips on a 14 ga solid copper wire from a piece of Romex and did not see or feel a nick - I don't own a microscope, but I do have a 10X magnifier.
I think it's all in that handle spring. There has to be some sort of relief mechanism, since it can do any size wire and the right side can touch the insulation at an unknown distance from the top jaw on that side. Something in the linkage has to say, effectively, ok, now sliding the jaws apart (to pull off the insulation) is the path of least resistance while squeezing the handles, as opposed to continuing to clamp down on the right. I forgot they weren't sharp. I've even stuck my finger in that type (on purpose - yes I guess I am strange). It's a clever mechanism - stuff like that intrigues me and I like to figure out just how they made it do that.
First thing you have to do is strip the extra "S" off of your bus.
It is a Bus Wire, A bus is a vehicle for carring somethiong, in this case electricty.
A Buss is a kiss (or a brand of fuse) and while it can be electrifying, it does not belong on your railroad.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS