Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Signaling for Dummies

12620 views
33 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
  • 16,367 posts
Posted by gmpullman on Sunday, October 2, 2016 4:21 PM

BigDaddy
Now that I look at them, they don't look as crude as I thought they did. 

Ok, now I get it...

Actually, I have some of those from wehonest. They do look pretty decent. I don't use the supplied LEDs but use 1.6mm axial "water clear" ones from LEDswitch:

http://www.led-switch.com/

For the dwarf signals I want something a little more robust to avoid beating it up when cleaning track (or the occasional derailment Whistling)

When it comes to scrounging parts for making signals I cast my net wide. Maybe they aren't perfect for "up-close" use but on my layout I have lots of places in the distance where a "good enough" signal will work. I have some of the Tomar dwarfs that I paid about $14 each for and I can make the wehonest ones for less than a dollar. As you have discovered, the supply-chain from the other manufacturers can be sporadic.

Presently, I am trimming some PRR signal heads from Oregon Rail and making a dwarf signal that, hopefully, will replicate this:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/forlornphotos/8417415373

Regards, Ed

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
  • 16,367 posts
Posted by gmpullman on Sunday, October 2, 2016 10:33 PM

rrinker
they also have a simple signal animation controller to drive them, the time delay type where the signal shows green until the photosensor is blocked, then it goes red, after a time yellow, then after another delay back to green.

Well, there's a little problem with their circuit design. That is, when it is triggered, it begins to time out even if the trigger is still grounded. So if the train is still covering the IR reciever or the reed switch is still made the signal begins to switch back to clear (they have red and yellow reversed on the board).

I bought five of them, one was DOA, another one was missing the chip and a third one both yellow and green LEDs are always lit even after it is triggered. Sometime I'll take the chip out of the dead one and try it in the one that was missing. Might fix it?

Yes, their stuff is cheap but I would stick to just the LEDs. I've never had a problem with the controllers from LogicRail and they are good about answering questions about their product.

Regards, Ed

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: North Dakota
  • 9,592 posts
Posted by BroadwayLion on Monday, October 3, 2016 9:41 AM

 

LION builds own signals of him. Layout needs 100s of signals, cannot afford to buy them. Good thing subways have simple signals

Here is another simple signal, it has kindof fallen appart since I builded it.

 

Here is relay room for layout of LION.

 

ROAR

The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.

Here there be cats.                                LIONS with CAMERAS

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Monday, October 3, 2016 9:59 PM

I use signals from Tomar Ind.  I only have six, guarding and directing traffic into a long siding, used for interchange.

Each one is controled by a rotary switch, powered by a seperate transformer, so I can set the right color to the right track.  Nothing fancy.  It's the only siding I have, and is right in front of the layout.

Mike.

 

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!