Ken
The + side should be the same as the + probe side, but the resistor goes on the negative or anode led lead. The negative side of the led has a flat spot on the outside and a "flag" end the inside of the led.
Ray
southeastroads Ken The + side should be the same as the + probe side, but the resistor goes on the negative or anode led lead. The negative side of the led has a flat spot on the outside and a "flag" end the inside of the led. Ray
Polarity does matter, but which leg the resistor goes on doesn't.
For future reference, the negative side is the cathode, the positive side is the anode.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
rrinker Plenty of light in those stars, for sure. How warm does it get under there with those on? Depending on layout location, the extra heat of incandescent vs LED or flourescent may or may not be an issue. --Randy
Plenty of light in those stars, for sure. How warm does it get under there with those on? Depending on layout location, the extra heat of incandescent vs LED or flourescent may or may not be an issue.
--Randy
I think the iPhone makes them look brighter than they actually are. They don't get hot/warm at all. Some nights they're on for hours and you can still touch/rest your hand on them with very little to no heat. I don't know if you can tell, but I didn't use plywood on the benchwork, just caulked the 2" foam board on the 1" x 3"'s. The backs of the lights are taped directly to the foam board and it's not melting (or even smell like it's melting).
Inspired by Addiction
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this looks like a good place for this info. i use this to figure my circuits out.
works nicly when working on r/c lighting for my rigs and on the layout.
http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz
later
g
FB page of my layout *new*
https://www.facebook.com/ghglines
.
thread to my layout
http://www.warcrc.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10505
pics
http://s237.photobucket.com/user/rockcrawling/library/#/user/rockcrawling/library/ho%20scale%20trains?sort=3&page=1&_suid=1388183416990004180295067414064
Thanks everyone, after I get done with the "honey do's" I am going to go solder some resistors the some leds.
I am almost affraid to ask but what do you do to use the incandescent Christmas lights?
Bis Thanks everyone, after I get done with the "honey do's" I am going to go solder some resistors the some leds. I am almost affraid to ask but what do you do to use the incandescent Christmas lights?
I DO NOT USE THEM. The are very very hard to solder to the leads, and besides they have a built in shunt to short them out in the event of filament failure so that the rest of the lights would stay on. As soon as anything troubles it you will have a dead short in your circuit, and I would defy toy to find it!
Now once upon a time, when I was just a young cub, I did do just that, but there were the old 12 volt conical shaped lamps (The kind that disappeared once the C7s came out.) They were wired in series of eight lamps and so could be plugged into 120 volts. If one went out, they all went out, but you only had eight to test and not 300! In any event the LIONLING use them sockets and all with 12 volts and they were just fine for lighting up the old plasticville houses that one used in those days. Such lamps are almost certainly no longer available.
Do not even dream of using those things, for they run on anything from 2 volts to 6 volts and you do not know which by looking at them.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
If you want to work at what I call the component level, read and store the below links in Favorites.
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_Workshop/index.htm
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_HF/index.htm
I have three of the Harbor Freight meters.
All the LED's I have ever bought are 20 ma max so I assume any from sets are the same. I use a 1 k potentiometer and 12 vdc to check them out. Start at 1k on the pot. Big if, if one blows out with the pot at 1k, not a big deal as there are more in the set but that has never happened.
I also have 2.5 k and 5 k pots but have never needed them.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I think we will pass on the incandescents, sounds like a real pain
I think I still have a few of the old plasticville buildings :)
just if you were wondering, "daylight" view
fun with LEDs
UV LED and pen
Looks GOOD.
Does any model supplier sell the LED's with the resister already in place and rated for correct current? That would speed me up and cut down on many beginner mistakes.
The Cedar Branch & Western--The Hillbilly Line!
dragenrider Does any model supplier sell the LED's with the resister already in place and rated for correct current? That would speed me up and cut down on many beginner mistakes.
Yeah, try Evan Designs http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/ledlights1.html
Do you folks leave the led's in the plastic holders and lenses that they come in or do you remove them?
If you remove them, is there an easy way? I have had to use a Dremel tool to cut the holder on the few I have played with.
Thanks
I always remove them.
The lamps come out by pulling straight out from the socket. Once you have the familiar looking Christmas bulb in your hand, remove the plastic do dad (if there is one) by twisting it. Bend the two contact wires back away from the lamp. The LED should pull straight out without difficulty.
LION keeps a jeweler's screwdriver at hand for bending the wires straingt, it saves wear and tear on the finger nails.
Thanks Lion
I pushed,pulled,proded and everything else. I finally had to get the Dremel out and slit green holder to remove the clear lense. I just thought that it might not be as harsh a light with the lense left on.
I have yet to put any in buildings. I am still building the structures.
Just a heads up so no one else gets surprised like I did:
I picked up a box at Target that was labeled as "white" (as opposed to warm white) with color lenses. After pulling off a few of the lenses, I discovered that the bulbs are colored! Disappointing because I wanted the white bulbs. I'd assumed that the lenses were the only thing colored, but apparently not. Kinda makes me curious why the box was labeled white though...
Hope I can find a box somewhere. Target was cleaned out tonight!
Um, yes, I knew that. I think I mentioned it. Colored plastic thingies have colored LEDs under them.
I was surprised, the same as you when I first found them (although I do have a use for blue LEDs).
But you must stop and think about this for a second and it will become obvious.
All Electronics sells colored LEDs, for as little as 10c each, where as the white ones are 90c each. If it is the chemistry that goes into making white LEDs that much more costly, then it only stands to reason that the makers of these sets will use the least expensive LEDs they can in them.
The box was labeled "White" because the cord was white instead of green.
That's exactly it. Color LEDs like red, green, and blue are easy, it just depends on the chemistry. White LEDs are almost all actually a UV emitting LED with phosphors to produce the white glow, more complicated and expensive to make.
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
BroadwayLion The box was labeled "White" because the cord was white instead of green.
Nope, green cord.
The red, green, yellows, and maybe blues will be useful somewhere. Not sure what I'll ever use a purple LED for. Unless I crack it open and some other color falls out.