I have recently switched from an MRC Prodigy Advance system to a Digitrax Super Chief Xtra. I am enjoying the Digitrax system but there is one thing that drives me crazy, there is no on/off switch on the throttle! You have to remove the battery. It may just be me, but I think that's crazy.
Has anyone out there outfitted any kind of switch on one of these? I'm thinking that you could use a small switch to cut the power right near the battery and I'm darn tempted to try it. But if someone has tried this, either successfully or not, I'd like to hear about it.
Lots of people have posted on the forums about installing switches. Just wait a little and there will be more postings about this from other forum members.
I have gotten so used to removing or inserting the battery that is way easy. Insert battery, slip on cover. Slip off cover and remove battery. It takes as long to do it as to read about it.
Do a search and you will find postings on adding a switch. I believe that Mike of Fifer Hobby has about it on the store web site.
Ken G Price My N-Scale Layout
Digitrax Super Empire Builder Radio System. South Valley Texas Railroad. SVTRR
N-Scale out west. 1996-1998 or so! UP, SP, Missouri Pacific, C&NW.
I have installed mini toggle switches on both my DT402D The biggest issue is finding somewhere to put the switch. I just ran the wires up to the top panel where there was just about room to fit a very small toggle. It voids your warranty BTW. Also, drop an email to Digitrax to mention your frustration at this omission. Perhaps one day they will add one in?
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
That sounds like the ticket Simon. Any photos you can share?
I did not take any photos but essentially used the setup as described in this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caF7wUADsd4&feature=related I added some Kapton tape to insulate around the switch in case there were any shorts on the board.
I don't seem to mind removing the battery after each session and then replacing it next time. Which is kind of funny 'cause that seems like something that would drive me nuts too. I do, however, forsee wearing out the battery cover clip in time...
I can't seem to find a proper shut down sequence though. I always have to go through a convoluted and different start up sequence and always get the "track/idle" flashing that doesn't always get resolved with the power y/n entries. Could be me.
I assume you have a radio system? If not, you don;t need batteries in the throttles.
Power up is pretty straightforward, mine always seems to work with the same sequence. Mainly, turn on power to the system, then press Power, Y/+/On, and Exit.
Shut down, I just push Power, N/-/Off and then turn off the AC power.
If you have multipel boosters, liek I do, either power it all at the same time, I use soem X10 modules to accomplish that, or else power up the command station first, then all the boosters, THEN use the throttle. I don;t ever change any of the switches on the front fo the command station/booster once everythign is set up the first time.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I have installed mini SPST toggles on both of my Digitrax throttles and both throttles that my club owns. I put them in the side of the throttle where there is enough room. Sometimes though I turn off the switch by accident and have to plug the throttle back in to regain control. But it does solve the problem of someone reversing the battery by mistake and causing a meltdown.
Be careful with the battery cover as Digitrax does not sell replacement covers. You have to get them from another company.
The cases are a standard off the shelf item from Serpac, and can be purchased from many electronic suppliers. I know I've found them in the Mouser catalog. WHole cases only, no seperate battery covers. Although for personal use you could probably make a mold and cast a few replacements.
Somethign else I didn't mention. Yes, if you keep power to the UP5/UR panels, you can lug the throttles in when not in use and this will keep them from draining the battery. However, I am VERY strongly against leaving ANYTHING in the train room powered up when not actually there. I shut everythign down, all power to the layout, and all power to my workbench. That way, if anythign accidently gets left on, it won't be powered.
I have had the batteries go dead after leaving them in. That isn't half as bad as when I went to an op session at a friends layout. Needless to say. I learned that you do not put an extra battery,loose, in your pocket! It just happened that I had put my keys in the same pocket. The hot leg that I got was the focal point of numerous jokes, the rest of the day! Anyway, I take the batteries out when not in use. It's not that big of a job.
Phil, CEO, Eastern Sierra Pacific Railroad. We know where you are going, before you do!
This is the first post I've seen on this subject and feel kind of like someone just opened Pandora's box. I was in the world of bliss, not realizing how I just took for granted the notion that "I should just take the battery out and put it back in". I saw it done that way for years at other's Digitrax layouts and so when I got mine, I just thought it natural. But an on/off switch does make sense and if it weren't for warranty issues I would add one. I get tired of keeping up with batteries and covers laying around waiting to get lost. We could certainly reverse insert the batteries and reattach the covers, but that just adds to the work.
This should have been added on the new DT402 throttles--they are very costly and a switch isn't that much $$.
Thanks,
Richard
After 4 years I had a battery covers clip break. I bought one to replace it and three extra battery covers just for the time one may break again. They are not all that expensive. That was almost two years ago.
I never turn off track power before I turn off the command station. The one time my DT400R throttle had to be sent back to Digitrax if I had done this I could not have used my UT4R throttle. Which would have meant no train running of any kind until I received the DT400R back. .
Lake After 4 years I had a battery covers clip break. I bought one to replace it and three extra battery covers just for the time one may break again. They are not all that expensive. That was almost two years ago. I never turn off track power before I turn off the command station. The one time my DT400R throttle had to be sent back to Digitrax if I had done this I could not have used my UT4R throttle. Which would have meant no train running of any kind until I received the DT400R back. .
That happened to us and so we ended up buying a DT402D, ouch.
Thus I have more than oen throttle capable of controllign the system, not to mentio the PR3 which I can connect up via my computer and control the layot from there. Granted, I'd probably not have a DT402 had I not gotten a good deal on a full SUper Empire Builder Xtra set when all I really needed was a DB150 for a booster, but now I have a DT400 and a DT402 - I keep thinkign of sendign the DT400 in for upgrade to a DT402D to use at the club, I just can't jsutify the radio for home as my room is small enough that I can reach almost everywhere with just one UP5, when I get the fascia in ont he far side and put a second UP5 there, I can defintiely reach all track with the two plug in positions.
Then there's the DT100 I picked up for cheap on eBay, it can turn the track power on and off too - if I can every rememebr how. It's a great "runnign trains" throttle for someone like be who ahtes the potentiometer controls on the UT4 (or my Zephyr console - yet another way I can control track power, although the Zephyr is now mounted unde rthe layotu and not readily accessible), at least when I can rememebr how to get a trains elected int eh first palce - the DT100 is really the reason behind all the "OMG Digitrax is SOO hard to use" statements you see, but this has been replaced and discontinued 15 years ago. It's far from intuitive, especially when trying to select 4 digit addresses (most system even only supported 2 digit addressing when the DT10 was new production), and I have an annoyign tendency to try to click the knob to reverse (DT100 does not have click encoders liek the DT300 and the DT400/402), but once a train is selected there's a nice large readout of loco address, and the buttons are real buttons, not membranes, and the basic functiosn for the lights, bell, and horn are all there. No, No F25 sound the grade crossing sequence, but who needs it.