Trying to leard dcc

[AlanP]

I just installed a TCS model LL8 decoder into my Life-Like Proto 2000 SD45 engine. This is my first experience with dcc. I bought this decoder because it said it was plug & play, no need to change out bulbs or add resistors inline with bulbs. Engine ran backwards, so I changed the value in CV29 to change direction, that was easy. I am still unable to figure out how to get the lights to come on though. Do I need to change any other CV values to make the lights work? I have a MRC Prodigy Advance 2 wireless system that I am trying to use. Any tips or advice would be greatly appriciated.

Thanks

[Stourbridge Lion]

AlanP - Welcome to Trains.com!

[cudaken]

 Reason it wants to run backwards is you have the motor wires on backwards to the decoder.

 On turning on the head light, have you tried F-0 on the throttle? On my Digitrax DT 400 it has a light bulb icon next to the button.

   from me as well.

            Cuda Ken

[MisterBeasley]

Welcome aboard! 

Was this a plug-in decoder?  Is it possible that you plugged it in backwards?  That would explain the reverse motion of the locomotive, and likely the inoperative lights as well.

[AlanP]

I turned the plug around and now I had the reverse light and the engine didn't run backwards. Still no front lights though, so I changed the white wires to another terminal. The forward light were barely glowing, so I unhooked one of them, now the 1 reverse light works and 1 of the front lights work! Not enough voltage to run both front headlights. Still trying to figure this one out.

Thanks for the help. I'm making progress!!!

AlanP

[RailfanS]

Hi Alan,

Welcome to the forums. To start with, does your locomotive have light bulbs or LED's? Older P2K (Proto 2000) loco's used 1.5v bulbs, while I'm pretty sure the newer ones have LED's. TCS makes 2 versions of the LLC8 decoder because of this, see here:

 http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Products/Decoders/HO-Scale/LL-Series/LL8/LL8.html

If you purchased the light bulb version of the decoder (LL8) and your loco has LED's the 1.5V's the decoder puts out won't be enough to run the led's, which is probably why the light's are dim or not working. Also, as this is a plug and play decoder you shouldn't have to unhook or reattach wires. I would recommend returning the wires to their original locations if possible.

Hope this helps,

Jamie 

[AlanP]

I purchased this engine about 7 or 8 years ago, but never ran it. It has incadesant bulbs in it, I can see the elements. That is why I bought the LL8 decoder instead of the LL8-LED decoder. I wish the decoder had a diagram showing what the different pins went to, then I wouldn't be switching wires around trying to make the lights work. I e-mailed TCS a few days ago, but don't really expect them to reply. My nearest hobby store that deals in dcc is 200 miles away. They told me on the phone to ship the engine to them and they would probably have it back to me in about 2 months. Kind of a long wait I thought.......    Is there some way to change CV values to increase voltage to the  front bulbs or wire them in with a different function button for the bottom light?

Thanks again, I'm learning.

Alan

[MisterBeasley]

Some decoders follow prototype practices and run the rear light dim while the engine is going forward, or both dim when idling.  Others only turn on the light in the direction the engine is going, leaving the other one off.

[rrinker]

 This should be the only diagram you need:

 

This is the pinout for the 8 pin plug. This is where the wires SHOULD be on the little board with all the wires. Ignore the text, this is looking up at the socket in this case. If you look on the sheet that came witht he decoder, it labels the 8 pins on the decoder side. Bottom line, along the edge closest to the edge of the decoder should be, from bottom to the top, Orange, Yellow, nothing, and Black. On the other side, Red should be across from Orange, Blue across from Yellow, White across from the pin with no wire, and Grey across from Black. Unless you got a factory dud from Life Like, this is the way it should be wired. Make sure none of the goofy plastic caps have come loose and that the wires are secured and the loose ends aren't touching each other or anythong on the decoder when plugged in.

 Try it back with the old DC board and verify that the headlights actually still work.

                          --Randy