Just enable compatibility mode, problem solved.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Just enable compatibility mode, problem solved. --Randy
railwayop,
If you are using Internet Explorer 9 (IE9), at the top of the page, click on Tools, then click Compatibility View.
Rich
Alton Junction
Poor Guy still hasn't figured it out
Springfield PA
Well he has the wiring solution in hand, but he has other priorities in his life other than lurking on the forum. What's up with that? LOL
richhotrain Well he has the wiring solution in hand, but he has other priorities in his life other than lurking on the forum. What's up with that? LOL Rich
Hi everyone!
Well, here I try again...this is the umteenth time - write a reply, select tags, check email, hit post and it shows up empty or I get a message telling me there is an error...try again - I feel like an endless loop - SO SORRY for the empty messages/replies - I even sent a message to Trains Inquiry to ask what the heck is happening! Didn't know about that compatiblity View so I will try that too!
Anyway, what I have been trying to ask is I high tailed it to the store - the guy in the electronic store told me that a 1 amp diode was "too powerful" then he walked off and I walked out - I was trying online at some electronic stores to see if could find anything less than 1 amp, even Walthers, and nothing - from the insert with the signal incad bulbs that 12-16 volts ac or dc and 0.030 A
Is what I was trying and am trying to desperately figure out now is: will a 1 amp diode work with the 12-16V and 0.030A for these incad bulbs????
THNAKS for you patience and help
Good to hear from you. Apparently, the Compatability feature of IE was your problem. Do you, in fact, have IE9?
Yes, the 1A diode will work just fine. The guy at the electronics store must be an idiot.
If you have a Radio Shack store near you, Radio Shack carries a variety of 1 amp diodes, any of which will work. Try the item number 1N4001, 1N4003, or 1N4004. All three are 1 amp diodes. They cost $1.19 each.
That was probably at Radio Shack, for the guy to be that much of an idiot. The amp rating on a diode is the maximum it can handle, so a 1 amp diode is not 'too powerful' - there's no such thing. The 1N4001 would be perfect, 1 amp current, 50 volts maximum reverse voltage, plenty to handle the 12-14 volts feeding the signal.
rrinker That was probably at Radio Shack, for the guy to be that much of an idiot. --Randy
That was probably at Radio Shack, for the guy to be that much of an idiot.
LOL
I thought the same thing.
I never ask those guys for advice. I just buy what I need and run.
Send me a PM with your mailing address and I will stick a diode in an envelope and mail it to you.
richhotrain railwayop, Send me a PM with your mailing address and I will stick a diode in an envelope and mail it to you. Rich
Hi:
Thanks so much for the offer - I went back to the Source aka Radio Shack and got the 1 amp diodes so THANK YOU so much for that really kind offer - very much appreciated!
And yes, it was an idiot at the store and next time I won't bother I'll ask here first! (was actually trying as noted earlier but couldnt get any message/reply to show up - am using XP with IE8 and with the Comp View suggestion I'll try that when get on the laptop as that's where I was getting the no show messages and will check that off) - thanks for that tip wasn't aware of it either
Anyway, back to the signal - I soldered the diode on the red and green leads as per Rich's great schematic and nearly had a major convulsion when they stayed red/green then remembered that DC was to be used ... now I am the idiot!!! When I pushed the slider I stopped in the center off position and everything went dark!!! Talk about anxiety plus then realized I didnt shove the slider far enough AND IT WORKED WONDERFULLY INCREDIBLY PERFECTLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Zow what a happy signal camper I am!!!!
AGAIN THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED WITH THIS ISSUE!!!!!!!! Am going to go diode nuts now and fix a few others I have that havent really enjoyed and will put some pixs up when I get that done
THANKS TO EVERYONE!!!!!!!! Everyone's help has been SUPER and so much appreciated
(now I got to call the dealership as the car engine light wont go out and guess that is the next thing to deal with!!!! if it isnt one thing its ten)
railwayop THANKS TO EVERYONE!!!!!!!! Everyone's help has been SUPER and so much appreciated (now I got to call the dealership as the car engine light wont go out and guess that is the next thing to deal with!!!! if it isnt one thing its ten)
Congrats !
Always good to get something working.
Hey, Randy, could railwayop install a diode on that car engine light?
Rat Shack is just a cell phone store these days. The last person who worked there that knew anything about electronics quit, hmm, about 24 years ago (when I quit working there while in college ).
No need for a high-tech solution to the car light, a piece of black electrical tape works very well
Most common cause is not screwing the gas cap back on tight. But it will go out after a few on/off cycles of driving the car. Next is probably a bad O2 sensor. Autozone stores around here will hook up a scanner and tell you what the error is for free, depending on what it is it might be an easy DIY fix or at least you have some knowledge going to the mechanic.
Hi Randy
"Rat Shack" PERFECT!!! You'll likely remember their Trash 80s then!!!
I called the shop and known service guy for long time and he said to drive it today (we've had some heavy downpours (thankfully) of late - so I did. I went out to start her up around 1430 and the light is OUT! So may have just been some moisture - won't press my luck any more tonight and try it again in morning and hope its still off then should be okay - suggested might indicate the cataytic converter might be "messed" - love their choice of words! These darn things ALWAYS happen when planning a get away for a few days.
Haven't got my head around the diode signal yet - now am seriously thinking I need to rewire ALL my board in this much better way you guys helped me solve! Sure appreciated the help, suggestions, feedback
Have also set my laptop with win7 and IE9 to compatiblity view and hopefully this will send when sent!
Later - take care
Robbie
I still have mine. At the time, it was one of the most advanced system available, far more sophisticated than the Apple II. I learned BASIC on the original Model 1, but I was about 11 at the time and couldn;t afford one, luckily the mall was in walking distance of my house so I could go to Radio Shack any time I wanted. They didn't mind since they had no clue what to do with it. The one I finally had, and still have, was the Model 4P, a suitcase type transportable. I used that my first two years in college until I finally got an IBM compatible MSDOS machine (no Windows in those days).
It's sort of pointless to dig out the old machine though since there are emulators for allt he classic computers that run on a modern Windows computer and give the complete experience of the old classic machine with no worries that a 25+ year old part will wear out.
Hamltnblue railwayop: Is there a way to rewire the Model Power (#1684) 2 aspect signal so it shows red and green when the 3-way slider switch is down and only red (no green) when the switch is up? And if so, how? Does the signal use bulbs or LED's? If it's LED's you can re-wire the existing switch and add a diode. If it's bulbs you can use a double pole double throw switch to do the job Radio shack has a variety of them available and they cost 3 to 4 bucks
railwayop: Is there a way to rewire the Model Power (#1684) 2 aspect signal so it shows red and green when the 3-way slider switch is down and only red (no green) when the switch is up? And if so, how?
Is there a way to rewire the Model Power (#1684) 2 aspect signal so it shows red and green when the 3-way slider switch is down and only red (no green) when the switch is up? And if so, how?
Does the signal use bulbs or LED's?
If it's LED's you can re-wire the existing switch and add a diode.
If it's bulbs you can use a double pole double throw switch to do the job
Radio shack has a variety of them available and they cost 3 to 4 bucks
Could use wire up a DPDT switch to accomplish this without the use of a diode?
Yes, a DPDT would also work. Power in to both center terminals, then on one end the red light hooked to one side, on the other end the red on one side and the green on the other. But a diode is cheaper than a DPDT switch.
rrinker Yes, a DPDT would also work. Power in to both center terminals, then on one end the red light hooked to one side, on the other end the red on one side and the green on the other. But a diode is cheaper than a DPDT switch. --Randy
Oh man, gotta try that too now!!!
I uploaded 4 pixs to the Galleries and labeled them "The Meet - Signala 1/2/3 (night pix so lights show up) and Daylight (so you can see the actual scene)" - sent 09 Tuesday about 0920 and message said be about 24 hours - wanted to show everyone the GREAT AND EASY SOLUTION results the MR Forum helped me with (just hope they use them!)
PS - the engine light went out and has stayed off so I am not going top panic anymore unless it returns because its raining again!)
There are a couple of ways to wire with a DPDT, but the best suggestion I saw was to wire the red to be on all the time and only switch the green. It was the biggest duh moment on the thread.
Hamltnblue There are a couple of ways to wire with a DPDT, but the best suggestion I saw was to wire the red to be on all the time and only switch the green. It was the biggest duh moment on the thread.
Yeah but what if he wants approach lighting so NO lights are on when there isn't a train nearby?
The original post didn't have off as an option. But of course if he did want it, permanant wiring wouldn't work.
Hamltnblue The original post didn't have off as an option. But of course if he did want it, permanant wiring wouldn't work.
But a Center Off DPDT would work.
Red/green on, both lights off, red on.
Well the idea was to make it even simpler, red connecte to power permanently, green through a SPST on/off switch. That gets the red or green over red, with no diode and no 'trick' wiring, but does not allow for a dark signal.