I have a small 1' x 6' switching layout. I purchased the NCE Power Cab system. Only going to run one small switch loco on it. I will wire each track with drops. I want to run a bus wire to attach the drops to. I am doing all this for the practice/experience to prepare for work at the club and future larger layout at home.
I don't believe I would need a booster. A booster would be used if I have long runs and running multiple trains. Is this the correct understanding?
The bus wires would connect directly to the NCE power unit? Is this correct?
Are there any wiring thread discussions someone can direct me to? Any diagrams?
Thanks,
-Ron
rcatoI don't believe I would need a booster. A booster would be used if I have long runs and running multiple trains. Is this the correct understanding?
Running only one loco at a time, you won't need an additional booster. (Remember that the PowerCab command station has a 1.7A booster included)
You only really need to add another booster if you are running sufficient trains to exceed the current rating of the command station. Run length is not really a determining factor, since with good wiring practice (a power bus and drops like you are advocating) even a lower power system will be fine as long as you are only running a small number of locos.
rcatoThe bus wires would connect directly to the NCE power unit? Is this correct?
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
Ron,
For powering one small switcher on a 1 x 6 layout, yes - you shouldn't need a booster. The only reason you might consider one is if you were running several locomotives at once, or wanting to divide your layout up into power districts.
The wall transformer that comes with your Power Cab powers the PCP panel and is plugged into the back of it. Your Power Cab is then plugged into the LEFT connector socket of the PCP panel in order to receive power. Since your Power Cab is a command station, booster, and throttle all rolled-up-into-one, when you unplug your Power Cab from the PCP panel, the whole layout will shut down.
Your bus wires will come directly off the back of the PCP panel via a small connector. (This is outlined in your Power Cab manual.) You can, however, choose whether or not you run bus wires or just track feeders from your PCP.
You essentially can power your layout with only a pair of wires or feeders. However, if you are wanting to use your layout as "practice" for your club or future layout, you can run your bus wire (12ga - 16ga) down the middle of your module and run feeders (18g - 22g) to your track. Try and keep feeders as short as possible (i.e. 12" or <) and every 3' or so of track.
Ron, may I suggest you try just the two wires initially so that you can just concentrate on learning and enjoying DCC at a leisurely pace; rather than trying to get everything "right" all at once.
Hope that helps...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
For a small layout and only one or two engines, you do not need a booster. The NCE Power Cab has sufficient power to run several newer engines, even if they have sound.
I agree that I may not need a booster at this time. I will try just running two wires to the track before I set a bunch of drops.
Another question, regarding programing. Since it is just me, a small layout, and one loco - is it true that I can just pick a yard lead track to program my loco on?
Thanks for the responses to my early question. Can't wait to set this up and start running my layout.
-Ron Catoire
rcatoSince it is just me, a small layout, and one loco - is it true that I can just pick a yard lead track to program my loco on?
With the "portability" of the Power Cab, you can actually program it on or off the layout if you want. Course you would need another PCP panel to do that. I actually use a 3' piece of 1 x 4 with a piece of flex-track on top as my programming track.
Anyway, to answer your question. Since it's just one loco, you could use your entire layout as your programming track. However, if you think you'll eventually add another locomotive, then - yes, a siding or a specific section of track will suffice for a programming track. You'll also need to gap or insulate the track so that you aren't inadvertently programming other locomotives on your layout.
Ron, keep us posted when you get things up and running.
So Good. I appreciate all the comments and help. Okay, on my 1 x 6 switching layout I have installed the NCE Power System. By the way, I did have my Power cab upgraded to radio so I can use it as wireless at my club's layout. I worked fantastically well.
Listening to your comments and the recommendation by NCE I went with 16 gauge wiring. I decided to use a couple of drops so I could practice soldering wire to some track. These drops will be 20 gauge no more than 8" long. The power bus is only 6 feet long.
What I found was 20 gauge solid wire for the drops BUT it was labeled Bell Wire. I suppose for doorbells. Is this wire okay? It's copper.
Thanks.
That's fine. The wire I use is #20 that's marked as "thermostat wire".
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Alright then. Thanks Randy. Like your website. Off to lay track and drop those feeders to see if I can power my first set of tracks. This is an exciting leap for this new fella.
Thanks all.
-RC
Sweet. Good report to share. It works!. I will try to share some pics when I have all the track laid.
-New Guy
Thanks for the report. We'll look forward to the updates and pics.
Tom,
I enjoyed the your site, especially the intructional series. I will use the removable bumper idea for my own layouts. Excellent.
I have my track laid, rail joiners in and soldered. I began with just attaching two wires to a track length but the engine will not run through the turnouts to the other tracks i have. Once example is when I cross over and through the switch to move the loco through the turnout to a yard lead or another yard track or spur the track powers down. When I throw the switch back I get power again.
I am going to put drops on each track now. Do I need to wire the the turnouts? I am using PECO, small and medium radius Insulfrog turnouts.
The layout is a familiar one to all Model Railroader fans because I made it from a layout article. I will scan it and send along with some pictures of my set up which might help.
Wiring is the most challenging for me.
I've read Mr. DCC many times as well as other articles.
Not sure how you all can help.
It worked for a moment. Now I am having power issues.
I will send some pictures and a scan of the track plan (which most of you will be familiar with).
I found the issue. One of the drop wires came loose so when I threw the switch there was no power to that rail.
Had some stalling issue but after cleaning the track and the loco wheels seems to run better.
I have some pictures. Will upload soon.
rcatoIt worked for a moment. Now I am having power issues. I will send some pictures and a scan of the track plan (which most of you will be familiar with). -Ron
Ron.
I am just completing the wiring for my own 3'X6' N Scale Figure 8 over and under layout with a small yard. Like you, I am using the NCE Pro Cab system. I am using some standard 4 strand Bell Telephone wire that I got free from the repair man when they had to run a temporary line from my house to the next door neighbour when their line got cut. I use this 22 Gauge wire as drops every 3 to 4 feet. Where it comes through underneath, I am soldering it to some 18 Gauge thermostat wire and covering the splice with shrink tube. The thermostat wire is then connected to the 14 Gauge stranded copper buss line down the front side of the layout with I D C's (insulation displacement connectors, no soldering here). After each drop is connected, it is checked for continuity with a multimeter. This may seem like a little overkill to some, but as the telephone wire was free and I already had the roll of thermostat wire from when I was a HVAC serviceman, I figured, why not.
The only problem that I had was that I could not get the 14 Gauge wire to go into the DCC connection (too tight a fit) so I spliced in a 3" piece of thermostat wire and all is well. All my wiring is colour coded for red and black so that it makes for easy trouble shooting down the road if needed.
As was mentioned previously, you will not need a booster unless you plan on having several more loco's running all at once.
Good Luck with your layout.
Blue Flamer.
As other have said, a booster is not necessary on your layout. I have an L-shaped 42' x 25' layout with an NCE 5 amp system and I don't need a booster. I have a lot of motive power on the tracks, lights, sound, the whole nine yards, but no booster required. I have a RRampMeter attached to my layout and I never even come close to the 5 amp max.
Alton Junction
Assuming you have located the plug for your Power Cab near the center of your switching layout, you should be OK with what you have. What the NCE Smart Booster gives you, however, is not just more power but walk-around memory, without the Smart Booster your train will stop when you unplug. For me this feature is essential.