I recently installed a Digitrax DH165AO decoder into an Atlas GP38. The engine had one of those Atlas dual mode decoders in it and it would make a buzzing sound whenever I would run it, I got annoyed with it and decided to replace it. After I installed the Digitrax decoder I decided to replace the bulbs that came with the engine with LEDs. I hooked up all the wiring correctly, the engine would move back and forth, but the lights wouldn't turn on. The manual refers to a Lighting ADJ option that requires cutting a > looking thing from the circuit board. It says that doing so will increase the milliamps from 15 to about 30. Does that mean that the forward and reverse lights will be getting full track voltage instead of the regulated 1.5 volts? I just need to double check so that I can add resistors to the LED's.
I installed a Digitrax DH165IP in my BLI AC6000, works great and all but it seems like a dang shame to waste 6 FX3 functions. I'm considering buying a TCS-DP2X decoder since it only has 2 FX3 functions to waste. Before I invest in a new decoder, does anyone make a decoder that only controls the motor?
TIA for the help and knowledge.
TONY
"If we never take the time, how can we ever have the time." - Merovingian (Matrix Reloaded)
davidmbedard wrote:I recommend that you just find a cheap decoder with BEMF and be done with it.
I recommend that you just find a cheap decoder with BEMF and be done with it.
DH123D
DH163D
DH163LO
If you have a switcher or other typa loco that's tight on space you can try these Z Scale decoders. They're robust enough to handle most HO equipment. I use some in some Athearn BB locos.
DZ125
DZ123
DZ143
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
jasperofzeal wrote:I recently installed a Digitrax DH165AO decoder into an Atlas GP38. The engine had one of those Atlas dual mode decoders in it and it would make a buzzing sound whenever I would run it, I got annoyed with it and decided to replace it. After I installed the Digitrax decoder I decided to replace the bulbs that came with the engine with LEDs. I hooked up all the wiring correctly, the engine would move back and forth, but the lights wouldn't turn on. The manual refers to a Lighting ADJ option that requires cutting a > looking thing from the circuit board. It says that doing so will increase the milliamps from 15 to about 30. Does that mean that the forward and reverse lights will be getting full track voltage instead of the regulated 1.5 volts? I just need to double check so that I can add resistors to the LED's.
Re-read those instructions, specifically page 6. You don't need a resistor, except possibly in parallel to reduce the current. By cutting the trace you're increasing the current, not the voltage. But you shouldn't have to do that for LED's. 15ma should work fine. If your LED's don't light, you've probably installed them backwards. Remember, LED's are polarity-sensitive.
jasperofzeal wrote: I installed a Digitrax DH165IP in my BLI AC6000, works great and all but it seems like a dang shame to waste 6 FX3 functions. I'm considering buying a TCS-DP2X decoder since it only has 2 FX3 functions to waste. Before I invest in a new decoder, does anyone make a decoder that only controls the motor?TIA for the help and knowledge.
I have DN143IP's in all my BLI's. Personally, a couple "wasted" functions are the last thing I worry about when selecting a decoder. Do you have another loco where you can use the DH165IP and all it's functions? If not, the whole decoder will be wasted if you replace it. If it were me, I'd leave it alone and just remember to match the decoder better next loco I buy.
Steve
Mike WSOR engineer | HO scale since 1988 | Visit our club www.WCGandyDancers.com
Stevert wrote: Re-read those instructions, specifically page 6. You don't need a resistor, except possibly in parallel to reduce the current. By cutting the trace you're increasing the current, not the voltage. But you shouldn't have to do that for LED's. 15ma should work fine. If your LED's don't light, you've probably installed them backwards. Remember, LED's are polarity-sensitive.
I think I did wire the LEDs backwards. The first time I installed the decoder into the engine I goofed and put it in backwards. I then flipped the decoder and probably then is when I wired the LEDs backwards. You'd think I'd check that first....
Stevert wrote:I have DN143IP's in all my BLI's. Personally, a couple "wasted" functions are the last thing I worry about when selecting a decoder. Do you have another loco where you can use the DH165IP and all it's functions? If not, the whole decoder will be wasted if you replace it. If it were me, I'd leave it alone and just remember to match the decoder better next loco I buy.Steve
I have a loco in the waiting list that will probably need 5 functions for what I plan to do with it. I should probably wait until then and see if a different decoder is in the market that'll better suit my needs.
Thanks to all who responded.
EDIT:
I did have the wired backwards. The lights work now without having to cut the > thing from the circuit board.
Thanks again all.