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Professional Locomotive Kitbashing Services

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Posted by Bundy74 on Tuesday, February 28, 2017 12:43 PM

richhotrain

 

 
cascadenorthernrr

Is the Rapido "Redundant Line" a real thing or is it just a joke?

 

 

 

I believe that Jason is deadly serious about this project.

 

Rich

 

 
Maybe he'll do an SD40-2 as well Wink

Modeling whatever I can make out of that stash of kits that takes up half my apartment's spare bedroom.

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Posted by richhotrain on Tuesday, February 28, 2017 4:55 AM

cascadenorthernrr

Is the Rapido "Redundant Line" a real thing or is it just a joke?

 

I believe that Jason is deadly serious about this project.

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by NWP SWP on Monday, February 27, 2017 11:20 PM

Is the Rapido "Redundant Line" a real thing or is it just a joke?

Steve

If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!

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Posted by NWP SWP on Monday, February 27, 2017 9:08 PM

I think I will do that.

Steve

If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!

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Posted by dknelson on Monday, February 27, 2017 9:00 PM

With those as future projects, now is the time to start developing your skills with cutting and fitting styrene parts -- kitbashing or kitmingling as it is usually called, primarily in reference to structures, but many of the same principles apply for modifying rolling stock including locomotives.  In many ways styrene is a wonderful and even forgiving material to work with.  

As with any skill it takes practice and before you start chopping up those locomotives, develop the skills you need with swap meet quality structures and rolling stock, even if the project itself is not on your list, just to get the skills.  Even just working with raw plastic itself can develop the skills.  

Dave Nelson

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Posted by NWP SWP on Monday, February 27, 2017 8:42 PM

Another project I may do is a SD70ACe "Draper Taper" unit, a Veranda Turbine style hybrid hood/cowl unit version, and a SD70ACe vintage style cab. These are just some ideas for someday projects.

Steve

If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!

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Posted by NWP SWP on Monday, February 27, 2017 8:18 PM

Could those two cars be used as diesel tenders?

Steve

If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!

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Posted by NWP SWP on Monday, February 27, 2017 7:50 PM

Thanks, I think the bottom car has something to do with CN's LNG/LPG projects.

Steve

If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 27, 2017 7:26 PM

Add a hose that runs between the tender and the locomotive (s).  This is kind of a entirely new topic.  You might also want to read the powerpoint presentation that was linked in your other topic.  There is a good reason why its not allowed as train cargo, and I would not want to be the engineer or conductor of a train with a locomotive equipped with such a tender.   A derailment with one of those tenders might produce the same type of accident that led to your RTR bash of locomotive parts.

 https://www.fra.dot.gov/Page/P0714

No idea what the bottom thing is.

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Posted by NWP SWP on Monday, February 27, 2017 7:01 PM

Now if I wanted to model a LPG/LNG powered unit what changes would need to be made to the unit(s)? I am wanting to make a tender like this.

Image result for canadian national lng tender

Or convert this to a tender.

 

Image result for 33,000 gallon tank car

And lastly what is this used for?

Image result for canadian national lng tender

Steve

If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!

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Posted by NWP SWP on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:52 PM

I see.

Steve

If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:50 PM

There should not be a seam if your cut is perpendicular to the sides. 

Also note that the Athearn Genesis SD70Ace Cab is a removable part....no cuting should be required.

Also an interesting tidbit.  The locomotive that you posted the photo of (BNSF 9159) is shown on page 2 of the owners manual for the Athearn Genesis SD70Ace.

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Posted by NWP SWP on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:44 PM

Ok it can wait I'm just going to tinker with some old Athearn dummies for the time being to learn how to splice shells. By the by how do I hide the connection between the two shell parts?

Steve

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:40 PM

cascadenorthernrr

Well since you insisted I can wait till you get the NYC heritage unit that way I'm not inconveniencing as much. I really appreciate it. It's no hurry anyway because the Athearn CN units I want aren't out till July.

 

The NYC heritage arrives in July as well.

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Posted by NWP SWP on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:37 PM

Well since you insisted I can wait till you get the NYC heritage unit that way I'm not inconveniencing as much. I really appreciate it. It's no hurry anyway because the Athearn CN units I want aren't out till July.

Steve

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:35 PM

cascadenorthernrr
I contacted Athearn to see if they have any broken damaged models I could tinker with to get it just right.

Best of luck with that, you might get lucky and they give you one or two, but generally most manufacturers like to keep the spare parts on hand to repair locomotives that get sent back to them.  

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:33 PM

Or if you are not in a hurry on this, I have NYC heritage unit on order that should be here at some point.  It will have to be opened anyway because I ordered it without a decoder so that I can put TCS Wow Sound in it.

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:30 PM

cascadenorthernrr
Ohh no you don't have to do that.

Four 2-56 screws is all that holds the thing on. 

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:27 PM

Something else to consider, you may wish to move the dynamic brake blister to the opposite end of the locomotive, to get the heat generated as far away from the air intake as possible (cant remember where I read that). 

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Posted by NWP SWP on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:27 PM

Ohh no you don't have to do that. I contacted Athearn to see if they have any broken damaged models I could tinker with to get it just right. And its a train simulation not a video game, but it doesn't really matter.

Steve

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:23 PM

BMMECNYC
 
cascadenorthernrr

But since this entire thing is "fantasy" the MATEs could be coupled to the Bs.

 

 

 

You can do whatever you want.  The actual models are all powered from the track.   I will bring your attention to something i mentioned earlier, and that is there may or may not be able to lower the hood to look like the video game trains, due to the internal structure of the locomotive chassis.  This may require milling the chassis down to a height that will give you the look you want.  You can only mill the chasis down so far before you run into the drive train of the locomotive itself. 

 

If you would like I can disassemble mine and take photos of the internal components.

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:23 PM

cascadenorthernrr

But since this entire thing is "fantasy" the MATEs could be coupled to the Bs.

 

You can do whatever you want.  The actual models are all powered from the track.   I will bring your attention to something i mentioned earlier, and that is there may or may not be able to lower the hood to look like the video game trains, due to the internal structure of the locomotive chassis.  This may require milling the chassis down to a height that will give you the look you want.  You can only mill the chasis down so far before you run into the drive train of the locomotive itself. 

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Posted by NWP SWP on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:15 PM

But since this entire thing is "fantasy" the MATEs could be coupled to the Bs.

Steve

If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:14 PM

BMMECNYC
 
cascadenorthernrr

I saw that but I am wanting to do the cabless units.

 

 

 

And those in all cases are directly connected to a cab equipped unit.

 

That having been said, do what you wish.  It is your railroad.

 

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Posted by NWP SWP on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:14 PM

Ohh ok.

Steve

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:10 PM

cascadenorthernrr

I saw that but I am wanting to do the cabless units.

 

And those in all cases are directly connected to a cab equipped unit.

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Posted by NWP SWP on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:09 PM

I see, so its like they are one unit? If so could the slug be connected to the b-unit and the MU controls of the B operate the slug and B together?

Steve

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Posted by NWP SWP on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:07 PM

I saw that but I am wanting to do the cabless units.

Steve

If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:07 PM

cascadenorthernrr

So how is the speed of the slug/MATE controlled?

 

It is electrically wired to the throttle that the engineer on the train operates, and is directly connected to its mother.

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 27, 2017 6:06 PM

BMMECNYC

The Norfolk Southern Road slugs give me an idea.  They have cabs on them, and look like a regular locomotive, but have no prime mover in them.  So what you can do here is SD70Ace-SD70B-RC70-RC70-SD70B-SD70Ace.

The beauty of this is you dont really need to do anything to the road slugs, just renumber them/replace the SD70Ace with your remote cab equipped slug option. 

That leaves just two less extensive RTR-bash projects the cabless boosters. 

Another quick thought:  An SD70Ace is 75 scale feet long, or just about 10.3" in length.  6 units would yield an impressive 62" (ish) long locomotive consist.   

 

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