A slug doesn't really work that way. It just siphons off excess power from it's mother unit under a certain speed for more traction. Multiple Unit implies you are controlling multiple locomotives from 1 throttle. A slug doesnt have a throttle.
As an alternative you may want to look at the GE MATE, which is the only factory built slug. A MATE is single or double ended. Instead of siphoning off excess electricity below a certain speed, a MATE turns a a single 4 axle loco into an 8 axle, or 2 4 axle locos into 2 6 axles. There was an article in MR in 1988 or so on making one.
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/locoList.aspx?mid=188
Modeling whatever I can make out of that stash of kits that takes up half my apartment's spare bedroom.
So I could build a SD70MATE?
Steve
If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!
cascadenorthernrr So even with modifications the slug cannot be operated with MU?
So even with modifications the slug cannot be operated with MU?
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Bundy74As an alternative you may want to look at the GE MATE, which is the only factory built slug. A MATE is single or double ended. Instead of siphoning off excess electricity below a certain speed, a MATE turns a a single 4 axle loco into an 8 axle, or 2 4 axle locos into 2 6 axles. There was an article in MR in 1988 or so on making one.
All a MATE is a slug that is wired into a mother unit, still needs the specially modified mother unit(s), that can operate at multiple speeds instead of cutting out. I believe Pan Am (B&M) GP40-Slug-GP40 set up is a home brewed version of this.
Well what I meant was could a slug be operated by a cab that isn't the next unit over? Let me rephrase the question could a MATE be MU'ed.
You could build anything you want. The question is what problem are you trying to solve, and what loco solution is appropriate.
1) A slug is for high-horsepower locos used in low speed situations (i.e. hump yards, locals)https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slug_(railroad)
2) A MATE is for high horsepower locos used on lighter track (GE U36B)
3) A B-Unit is when you need a dedicated trailing unit for extra horsepower on a train. Having one today is not really practical from the manufacturer since the added engineering cost of a B unit versus a cab is not profitable versus lack of flexibility. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B_unit
Understanding what the situation is helps to define what locos you need.
4) MATE/Slug to add tractive effort to diesel locomotive consist when needed.
cascadenorthernrr Well what I meant was could a slug be operated by a cab that isn't the next unit over? Let me rephrase the question could a MATE be MU'ed.
Did you look at this? http://www.nsdash9.com/rosters/700.html
The road slug or MATE (which is a term for a specific brand of slug) has no MU capability. It likely would have pass through capability for the MU communication between locomotives.
So they do not have throttles?
cascadenorthernrr So they do not have throttles?
No they do not. Throttles are for engines which slugs do not have.
Bundy74 cascadenorthernrr So they do not have throttles? No they do not. Throttles are for engines which slugs do not have.
Except these http://www.nsdash9.com/rosters/700.html
The slugs in your pictures do not have throttles.
So how is the speed of the slug/MATE controlled?
BMMECNYC The Norfolk Southern Road slugs give me an idea. They have cabs on them, and look like a regular locomotive, but have no prime mover in them. So what you can do here is SD70Ace-SD70B-RC70-RC70-SD70B-SD70Ace. The beauty of this is you dont really need to do anything to the road slugs, just renumber them/replace the SD70Ace with your remote cab equipped slug option. That leaves just two less extensive RTR-bash projects the cabless boosters. Another quick thought: An SD70Ace is 75 scale feet long, or just about 10.3" in length. 6 units would yield an impressive 62" (ish) long locomotive consist.
The Norfolk Southern Road slugs give me an idea. They have cabs on them, and look like a regular locomotive, but have no prime mover in them. So what you can do here is SD70Ace-SD70B-RC70-RC70-SD70B-SD70Ace.
The beauty of this is you dont really need to do anything to the road slugs, just renumber them/replace the SD70Ace with your remote cab equipped slug option.
That leaves just two less extensive RTR-bash projects the cabless boosters.
Another quick thought: An SD70Ace is 75 scale feet long, or just about 10.3" in length. 6 units would yield an impressive 62" (ish) long locomotive consist.
You may have missed this.
cascadenorthernrr So how is the speed of the slug/MATE controlled?
It is electrically wired to the throttle that the engineer on the train operates, and is directly connected to its mother.
I saw that but I am wanting to do the cabless units.
I see, so its like they are one unit? If so could the slug be connected to the b-unit and the MU controls of the B operate the slug and B together?
cascadenorthernrr I saw that but I am wanting to do the cabless units.
And those in all cases are directly connected to a cab equipped unit.
Ohh ok.
BMMECNYC cascadenorthernrr I saw that but I am wanting to do the cabless units. And those in all cases are directly connected to a cab equipped unit.
That having been said, do what you wish. It is your railroad.
But since this entire thing is "fantasy" the MATEs could be coupled to the Bs.
cascadenorthernrr But since this entire thing is "fantasy" the MATEs could be coupled to the Bs.
You can do whatever you want. The actual models are all powered from the track. I will bring your attention to something i mentioned earlier, and that is there may or may not be able to lower the hood to look like the video game trains, due to the internal structure of the locomotive chassis. This may require milling the chassis down to a height that will give you the look you want. You can only mill the chasis down so far before you run into the drive train of the locomotive itself.
BMMECNYC cascadenorthernrr But since this entire thing is "fantasy" the MATEs could be coupled to the Bs. You can do whatever you want. The actual models are all powered from the track. I will bring your attention to something i mentioned earlier, and that is there may or may not be able to lower the hood to look like the video game trains, due to the internal structure of the locomotive chassis. This may require milling the chassis down to a height that will give you the look you want. You can only mill the chasis down so far before you run into the drive train of the locomotive itself.
If you would like I can disassemble mine and take photos of the internal components.
Ohh no you don't have to do that. I contacted Athearn to see if they have any broken damaged models I could tinker with to get it just right. And its a train simulation not a video game, but it doesn't really matter.
Something else to consider, you may wish to move the dynamic brake blister to the opposite end of the locomotive, to get the heat generated as far away from the air intake as possible (cant remember where I read that).
cascadenorthernrrOhh no you don't have to do that.
Four 2-56 screws is all that holds the thing on.
Or if you are not in a hurry on this, I have NYC heritage unit on order that should be here at some point. It will have to be opened anyway because I ordered it without a decoder so that I can put TCS Wow Sound in it.
cascadenorthernrr I contacted Athearn to see if they have any broken damaged models I could tinker with to get it just right.
Best of luck with that, you might get lucky and they give you one or two, but generally most manufacturers like to keep the spare parts on hand to repair locomotives that get sent back to them.
Well since you insisted I can wait till you get the NYC heritage unit that way I'm not inconveniencing as much. I really appreciate it. It's no hurry anyway because the Athearn CN units I want aren't out till July.
cascadenorthernrr Well since you insisted I can wait till you get the NYC heritage unit that way I'm not inconveniencing as much. I really appreciate it. It's no hurry anyway because the Athearn CN units I want aren't out till July.
The NYC heritage arrives in July as well.
Ok it can wait I'm just going to tinker with some old Athearn dummies for the time being to learn how to splice shells. By the by how do I hide the connection between the two shell parts?