The meaning is the same thing we have been trying to tell you this whole time. Start small and work up. The loco project you are describing is really neat, but it is very involved. Unlike working plastic, a drivetrain must have the proper components, properly aligned and balanced, and be wired correctly. Understanding gears, lubrication, and soldering are crucial.
If you are really interested in building a loco like this, start small. Buy an old athearn engine and repower it with a kit from A-Line. You'll learn about removing the drivetrain components, motor mounting, and wiring.
As I said above, check out DarthSantaFe's channel, he's done some cool stuff that might give you an idea on what building a drivetrain is like.
https://www.youtube.com/user/DarthSantaFe
Modeling whatever I can make out of that stash of kits that takes up half my apartment's spare bedroom.
tstage
What pray tell is the meaning of this post, I'm not quite getting it.
Steve
If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Mechanically you are doing a lot of work here. Athearn and Bachmann made 4 axle trucks for the DD40 and DDA40X respectively. Why not seek out a pair of those and save some work?
As far as the drivetrain, take a look at DarthSantaFe's youtube channel, or search his posts here. He's built quite a few locos himself, and his work could be a reference for you.
So if I buy the GP30s off eBay I need to build a chassis first. (Length of the body is directly affected by the length of four, two axle trucks and two, four axle trucks) I was thinking I could get two, three axle trucks cut an axle of each then connect the two is that even remotely plausible? Then the motor rides on a frame atop the four axle truck and the two axle trucks are connected via a swing plate attached to the central frame; I build two of these. I would have to rig the driveshaft to run all three trucks. Then the center frame attaches to the main frame on a pivot allowing each articulated B+D+B set to track the turns better. The decoder can ride inside the shell and it controls both motors. Suggestions are greatly needed.
cascadenorthernrr It went relatively well only problem was glueing the metal plate so I did end up using super glue, I enjoyed it otherwise and it only took me about an hour and a half!
It went relatively well only problem was glueing the metal plate so I did end up using super glue, I enjoyed it otherwise and it only took me about an hour and a half!
Some guys claim they can put together an Accurail kit in 10 min. I prefer to take my time in order to trim and assemble the parts carefully, as well as switch out the couplers and plastic wheels for Kadee #58s and Proto 2000 33" metal wheels. In reality, I think I spend closer to 30 min. on an Accurail boxcar.
That said, it's not a race...and it's better to take your time and make sure you do things right the first time. You're off to a good start, Steven.
Tom
That sounds like a lot of work! But I'll try it.
Since you want to kitbash stuff, now take car like that and scrape off the grabirons and ladders and replace them with wire or seperate detail parts. Then replace the plastic roofwalk with an etched metal one. Then repaint the detail parts to match the rest of the car.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
As Tom said above, I also use a silicone caulk to secure the weight plate. You'll figure out all kinds of stuff as you go.
Mike.
My You Tube
OK, I can see them. Great! Now your on your way!
I seen today on Ebay, there is a seller that has 5 GP30 shells up for bid. I don't have a link to it, but you'll find them. Bidding is over in 6 days.
Well, how did it go for you, Steven? Did you enjoy putting it together? It looks good from the pics.
I like the Accurail kits. They're fairly straightforward to put together and the overall detailing is good for the price. My favorites are the 6- and 8-panel wood boxcars. I think they're quite handsome.
Did you end up using CA to adhere the metal plate to the boxcar chassis? CA works okay but it may pop up over time. FWIW: I've found that DAP Auto/Marine 100 RTV Silicone Sealant works great for that sort of application because it's thick, remains flexible after it cures, and holds VERY well. It's especially adept at irregular surfaces because those metal plates aren't always flat. You can find it at your local hardware store in the adhesive section.
Good call on the Kadee couplers. They're more reliable than the Accumate couplers, which are decent for plastic but not as good as the metal Kadees.
Congrats on puttting together the Accurail kit, Steven!
I re uploaded the pictures should be fixed now.
Steven,
Unfortunately the photos you posted are not viewable via Google because you need to have permission to access them. You'll need to upload them to a photo hosting site like Photobucket or RailImages.com for others to view them.
Or, you could just post them on your website and link to them from there. That would be the simplist way to do it since you already have the space.
Here are some pictures of the project.
Only thing I changed is the couplers I installed Kadee couplers instead of the Accumate ones that came with it.
When You are finished with the Accurail car..try Your hand at this kit, they state that a 10yr old can build it...when finished It would make a very nice mantel piece and over the yrs. You can look at it and say to Yourself, this was My second learning kit. Aside from that You'll learn what makes up a steam Locomotive....it is in 1/87 scale......when correctly built it will roll on HO scale track:
https://www.hobbylinc.com/revell-germany-big-boy-locomotive-plastic-model-locomotive-kit-1:87-scale-02165
Price won't break the bank.
Take Care!
Frank
I'm not sure, they're closed now anyway.
Any LHS (local hobby store) should carry it. What about the place where you picked up your Accurail kit from?
You can pick up MEK at your local hardware or home improvement store (e.g. Home Depot or Lowe's) but the smallest size is usually a 1 qt. can. Cheaper, for sure, but a bigger spill if you accidentally knock it over.
Which store would most likely carry Testors?
Most superglues (cyanoacrylate or CA) tend to attack styrene and turn it whitish in color. (IIRC, this is primarily due to the accelerant in the CA, which helps it to cure quickly when exposed to the air.) There are "styrene-safe" CAs on the market but you have to hunt for them.
The best adhesives for styrene are the liquid type (e.g Testors) that are essentially MEK (methylethylketone):
These melt or soften the exterior of the plastic surfaces so that they "meld" together for a strong bond. Because they are thinner and more watery they tend to "wick" or flow and disappear into a joint very easily, which makes assembly go more quickly.
The liquid adhesives like Testors come with a brush built into the bottle cap. However, I prefer applying the adhesive with a 5-0 or 10-0 artist brush; the latter for smaller and more delicate applications - like grab iron and hand rail holes.
Ok so I actually do not have any kits (they were kits at one time but not any more) therefore I proceeded to my local hobby shop and purchased a accurail UP box car. Now can I use super glue gel to put it together?
And some progress pics while your building would be great! I'd like to see this come together.
Mike
Be sure to post a picture of one when your finished...
Ok then! I have a few old Athearn kits someplace I'll find them and work on them.
Actually, I believe someone(s) have been telling you to "do something" rather than wasting all of your time dreaming. Dreaming and vision are essential to future plans...but a every journey starts with a single step.
I'll ask again: Have you put together a kit yet? If you haven't, Accurail would be a good and inexpensive one to start with. And older Athearn BB (blue box) would be even less expensive. Once you have one of those assembled you can then try your hand at a more challenging kit, or find ways to detail the one you assembled.
I thought someone around here said to try my hand at cutting up old Athearn shells to get pratice with cutting plastic? Even then I can still chop up the shells to build the shell for the big loco even if I do not build the frame. I just looked at ebay the four GP30s and the DD40 will only run me about a hundred dollars. Walthers said I could get a shell for a SD70ACe for $25.
BMMECNYCI thought you were doing an SD70Ace?
He not really going to build any of it. He's just dreaming and what if'ing to have something to talk about. If he hasn't built a single model yet it will take him years to get a suitable shell kitbashed and double that for the metal working and mechanical skills to build a mechanism.
Those pictures are generally intended for modelers to use, I would say hacking them up falls within fair use because people have been using them to plan kitbashes and paint schemes for years.
Pretty sure that the forum admin will delete the unauthorized images.
Alton Junction
cascadenorthernrr BEHOLD FRANKENDIESEL!!!!
BEHOLD FRANKENDIESEL!!!!
I thought you were doing an SD70Ace? Also you may want to take a look into copyright infringement. Those drawings say that you need written permission for use other than personal. Im not a lawyer, but I dont think that publishing on a forum group of hacked up copyrighted images passes the litmus test for "personal use". Just sayin.