does anyone know of a parts kit or other locomotive model that has an inset front break wheel so I could correct a SDP 40 Shell that does not have the inset at all?
If you're talking about the Athearn SDP40 shell, it has the proper nose inset handbrake setup as-is. And, it's not a wheel; it's a ratchet style.
So, I don't understand your problem.
Ed
I'm not entirely familiar with the company but I see reference to Cannon quite frequently by diesel detailers.
http://store.blueoxtrains.com/cannon-1105-ho-scale-detail-part-emd-116-short-hood-kit-sp-up-sd40-2/
Take a look here. I assume you mean HO?
http://www.cannonandco.net/about-us.html
Good Luck, Ed
if you look up pictures of KCS 2600, (the proto i plan to model) you will see the inset im talking about about. the athearn shell i have is of santa fe 93 (a totally made up loco) and it does not have the nose of the proto. so im trying to correct it.
I doubt even Cannon has that. You'll probably have to make the hood contour yourself.
Edit: they do have the inset brake wheel, but to match the top of the short hood, you'd have to do that yourself. Part 1107.
Also see here: http://www.cannonandco.net/models.html
It's an SDP45, but same concept.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Is it very different from this?
http://store.blueoxtrains.com/cannon-1107-ho-scale-detail-part-emd-88-optional-recessed-brake-wheel-sides/
M636C
Just exactly which wheel is broken??
Charlie
Yodarian if you look up pictures of KCS 2600, (the proto i plan to model) you will see the inset im talking about about. the athearn shell i have is of santa fe 93 (a totally made up loco) and it does not have the nose of the proto. so im trying to correct it.
It would have been convenient if you had said that earlier in this topic, even in the title.
If you are attempting to model KCS 2600, you are NOT modeling an SDP40. You are modeling an SD22ECO.
Athearn makes the part you think you want, but it is for a scale-width body. Your base-shell has a wide non-scale width body.
So, you are going to have to build the notch yourself. I have done it twice on the same shell. It is not difficult. Randy has supplied a photo of the notch, above. The brake wheel and stand can be modeled using this:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/755-68
7j43kIf you are attempting to model KCS 2600, you are NOT modeling an SDP40. You are modeling an SD22ECO.
KCS 2600 started as SDP40 8531 built for the N de M. It transitioned through FNM, TFM and Kansas City Southern de Mexico before it was rebuilt into its current configuration. It still looks a lot like an SDP40 externally.
Here's KCS 2600 showing the nose and handbrake.
Here's the Athearn SDP40 nose, for which the extra foot of width is readily apparent. Also note the incorrect handrail configuration (including the shape of the engineer's side railing along the short hood), plus errors in the battery boxes, pilot and other issues.
Commercial parts to modify the nose may be difficult to incorporate because they're designed to work with hoods of scale width and otherwise correct contours. I've messed around in the past with Cannon details and they aren't necessarily the easiest things to work into the out of scale older Athearn hoods, and current Athearn parts for correct width hoods are likely to be similar. You may be better off building the recess out of sheet styrene. See my next post.
Rob Spangler
7j43kIf you're talking about the Athearn SDP40 shell, it has the proper nose inset handbrake setup as-is. And, it's not a wheel; it's a ratchet style. So, I don't understand your problem.
Great Northern's six SDP40s were built with ratchet handbrakes. From the photos I can find, the 14 built for N de M all seem to have left the factory with a larger notch for a brakewheel like this (which matches the current configuration of the KCS SD22ECO rebuilds):
This appears to be the same arrangment as other contemporary units like the SP's SDP45s.
Here's TFM 1319, ex N de M 8531, the unit that eventually became KCS 2600 (shown here as an SDP40 prior to rebuilding). I couldn't find any photos of the 8531 in original paint, but I'm reasonably certain it wasn't built with a ratchet handbrake like the GN units.
This image from Cannon's site http://www.cannonandco.net/models.html shows an in-progress SDP45 build from noted diesel modeler Elizabeth Allen, and appears to have the same handbrake setup as the N de M SDP40s. Maybe this gives an idea for modifying the Athearn nose.
The brake wheel and stand can be modeled using this: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/755-68
I doubt that will work too well, plus it comes with the wrong brakewheel. You may be able to get the housing by cutting it from http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/191-1107 or something similar like a Cannon or other nose or long hood with the correct housing cast in. At least you'll also get the correct brakewheel. That looks like what Ms. Allen was doing with her project too.
This view of Ms. Allen's finished model shows what looks to me like a Cannon brakewheel.
once again.....i wish to thank everyone for the help...Im so glad i found these forums. but the next question is, are there any models out there that i can cut a proper nose off to splice onto this shell?
Yodarian ...are there any models out there that i can cut a proper nose off to splice onto this shell?
...are there any models out there that i can cut a proper nose off to splice onto this shell?
No. There are not.
The shell you have is a wide-body Athearn. There are no wide-body shells that have what you need.
An alternative would be to get Athearn part number G63407. That would be the exact part you would need for a NOT wide-bodied shell. If you're in the mood, and you can get the Athearn part, you could install it. Personally, I think it looks pretty dorky to have a narrow nose on a wide body. But then a wide body is dorked up, anyway.
what are you refering to a wide body.....the short hood is just as wide as the long hood....this is not a COWL body loco?
Yodarian what are you refering to a wide body.....the short hood is just as wide as the long hood....this is not a COWL body loco?
The particular shell you are using has a body dimension about a foot wider than scale. This goes way back to when Athearn did its GP9 in the '50's. The motor they wanted to use was too wide to fit in a scale width hood. So they made the hood too wide. They did this for quite a few years, up until they did their SD40-2 shell. All the succeeding Athearn shells are a proper scale width.
And, yes, the short hood is just as wide as the long hood. They're both too wide.
Some people care. Some people don't. But putting scale parts on a wide body can be difficult/irritating.
If I wanted to make a model of the loco you are interested in, I would very likely get a current Athearn SD40. It has a proper width body. And I would use parts from your shell to model the "P" back end--the rear steps, for example. If I couldn't get the Athearn nose I spoke of earlier (which should "drop right in"), I'd do the nose modification as described earlier.
Also, I am sending aural (auroral ????) emanations towards Athearn to do an SDP40 version of their SD40. I got them to do the SDP45, so I'm pretty confident.
Yodarian...are there any models out there that i can cut a proper nose off to splice onto this shell?
Unfortunatley no. Athearn was the only manufacturer of the wide-body shells with noses like this, and no other manufacturer of locos or details makes parts intended to be compatible with the hood contours. Athearn itself stopped supporting these products some years ago as they moved toward more accurate locomotive models.
You have to decide what your goal is for this model. Do you want something that makes use of the loco you already have, or do you want a really nice model of an SDP40? If the latter, using the Athearn shell complicates things, as the tooling is so old and poorly executed the finished product will be severely compromised no matter what. You'd be farther ahead kitbashing a Genesis SDP45 or building your own shell from Cannon parts.
If you'll be satisfied with the limitations inherent in the Athearn shell, you can add some details and make a few modifications, while setting limits about what you can reasonably accomplish. Since the available hood conversion parts are intended for use with scale width shells, they won't fit the model you have well, if at all. If you remove the original short hood, you'd have to contend with the fact the new parts aren't designed to fit around the incorrect shapes of the stock battery boxes or cab, and then deal with the resulting gaps and other problems that arise. I can say from experience that attempting to fit a Cannon nose or cab to this model would not be easy. I'd strongly recommend trying to build things like the handbrake recess yourself or live with the inaccuracies of the stock shell. Normal parts for details that aren't dependent on the width of the shell, like fans, horns, or grilles, would be fine. Such a project could be a good way to polish your diesel detailing skills.
Older Athearn models like that SDP40 were made a scale 6" too wide - both hoods. The original reason was to fit the motor they had at the time. Newer motors are smaller, the new Athearn models have correct scale width hood. ALone it's not super noticeable unless you look at places like the walkways, espcially the steps up tot he front door on the fireman's side, where the steps are way too narrow compared to photos. If you have any newer models, or some other make, like a Proto 2000 GP or SD, set it alongside that Athearn and the difference is quite noticeable.
The Cannon parts are all scale size, so you'd have to build a whole body shell up, short hood, long hood, and cab, plus new walkways all around.
That Cannon 1107 short hood side with the inset brakewheel could work, but you'd have to adapt the contour to the roof of the short hood yourself (still beats building a whole loco).
The Cannon 1107 is sorta like the SDP brake. But not. Whether it's easier to adapt it or scratch the opening is an interesting question. But it's not a drop in.
thanks again for all the info. can not express how much i enjoy reading these forums and geting advice from more knowledgable people.