Some 4x8 Questions

[Anonymous]

I LIVE IN WAYNE COUNTY OHIO AND IM LOOKING FOR SOMEONE TO HELP ME BUILD A 4X8 LAYOUT ANY HELPERS? EMAIL ME AT [e-mail]

[Anonymous]

I LIVE IN WAYNE COUNTY OHIO AND IM LOOKING FOR SOMEONE TO HELP ME BUILD A 4X8 LAYOUT ANY HELPERS? EMAIL ME AT [e-mail]

[BR60103]

Chris:
I did a 2 foot square piece of scenery for a non-rail show last year and I spent most of a month on it, without operating track and using buildings that I pinched from my main layout. You could probably do something faster, as a lot of time is waiting for glue to dry. If you were less fastidious with the scenery it would speed it up.

[BR60103]

Chris:
I did a 2 foot square piece of scenery for a non-rail show last year and I spent most of a month on it, without operating track and using buildings that I pinched from my main layout. You could probably do something faster, as a lot of time is waiting for glue to dry. If you were less fastidious with the scenery it would speed it up.

[Anonymous]

For Chris:

If you are looking for something that takes 15-20 hours, I might suggest a diarama, rather than an entire layout. *** scene that takes up about 1 foot by 2-3 feet max, and work on that. You'll be surprised how quickly the time goes, especially on structures. I have been working on some "craftsman" type kits - very detailed, almost scratchbuilding, and they are taking 5-6 hours each.

Andrew

[Anonymous]

For Chris:

If you are looking for something that takes 15-20 hours, I might suggest a diarama, rather than an entire layout. *** scene that takes up about 1 foot by 2-3 feet max, and work on that. You'll be surprised how quickly the time goes, especially on structures. I have been working on some "craftsman" type kits - very detailed, almost scratchbuilding, and they are taking 5-6 hours each.

Andrew

[Anonymous]

Chris,

Randy made some good points I cannot find much to add to it. You mentioned a time frame of 15-20 hours. I would not worry about that too much.. you see, it can easily take a hour to carefully assemble a Accurail Frieght car kit, check the coupler heights, ensure that the wheels track true to gauge, that the car has all the parts properly installed and that it fits your overall "Theme" Researching a locomotive, and track etc is very good too.

Try to use "code" 83 track. Atlas makes a durable line that is not too expensive. Remember to use 22 inch radius if you can, many of today's locomotives will not accept shorter radii very well.

Ignore the rivalry between the DCC Knights and the Throttle Barons. Technology changes as we age and some of us find it "IF it aint broke dont fix it" I will admit that it is very exciting and wonderful new things that we can do with DCC. but bottom dollar is what I can spend a month in the store.

One more item, go slowly and test fit the track and test each switch and connection as you go. It is much easier to fix a problem BEFORE you pernamently fasten the rail to the table. Do not be frusterated by minor setbacks and kinks. It is all part of the fun to find and isolate and finally fix problems.

Have Fun, and let us know what grade you earned.

Lee

[Anonymous]

Chris,

Randy made some good points I cannot find much to add to it. You mentioned a time frame of 15-20 hours. I would not worry about that too much.. you see, it can easily take a hour to carefully assemble a Accurail Frieght car kit, check the coupler heights, ensure that the wheels track true to gauge, that the car has all the parts properly installed and that it fits your overall "Theme" Researching a locomotive, and track etc is very good too.

Try to use "code" 83 track. Atlas makes a durable line that is not too expensive. Remember to use 22 inch radius if you can, many of today's locomotives will not accept shorter radii very well.

Ignore the rivalry between the DCC Knights and the Throttle Barons. Technology changes as we age and some of us find it "IF it aint broke dont fix it" I will admit that it is very exciting and wonderful new things that we can do with DCC. but bottom dollar is what I can spend a month in the store.

One more item, go slowly and test fit the track and test each switch and connection as you go. It is much easier to fix a problem BEFORE you pernamently fasten the rail to the table. Do not be frusterated by minor setbacks and kinks. It is all part of the fun to find and isolate and finally fix problems.

Have Fun, and let us know what grade you earned.

Lee

[Anonymous]

Thanks For the info.

Chris

[Anonymous]

Thanks For the info.

Chris

[randybc2003]

To Chris:
Consult your local hoby shop; stay away from "discount stores". Go for a small number of quality, if economical pieces. For a first pike, try a "Atlas Flat-top". Atlas books cover simple, introductry stuff. Stick with Nickle-silver track, etc, and stay away from brass. Your hoby shop should have a number of "Build This Simple Railroad" books, that cover all aspects. Develop a trackplan that includes spurs facing both directions, a switch-back, and at least one run-around track. Two runarounds long enough to hold 3 to 5 cars will permit running two trains similtanously against each other. Block control is cheaper than DCC but can be set up to look forward to it. Build simple car and structure kits. Develope a theme you are familiar with. (If you live in farm country, display granger facilities. Latch on with a friend, and have fun.

[randybc2003]

To Chris:
Consult your local hoby shop; stay away from "discount stores". Go for a small number of quality, if economical pieces. For a first pike, try a "Atlas Flat-top". Atlas books cover simple, introductry stuff. Stick with Nickle-silver track, etc, and stay away from brass. Your hoby shop should have a number of "Build This Simple Railroad" books, that cover all aspects. Develop a trackplan that includes spurs facing both directions, a switch-back, and at least one run-around track. Two runarounds long enough to hold 3 to 5 cars will permit running two trains similtanously against each other. Block control is cheaper than DCC but can be set up to look forward to it. Build simple car and structure kits. Develope a theme you are familiar with. (If you live in farm country, display granger facilities. Latch on with a friend, and have fun.

[Anonymous]

I am looking at building a similar size layout for my Senior Project at school. It must take 15-20 hours and I would like to keep costs low. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Chris

[Anonymous]

I am looking at building a similar size layout for my Senior Project at school. It must take 15-20 hours and I would like to keep costs low. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Chris

[DSchmitt]

Get at least one basic book on model railroad wiring and look at the examples in it.
Its generally best to allow for at least two locos to be able to run independently (even if one locol will jut be sitting on a dead spur or siding most of the time).
DCC is probably the wave of the future, but you can start with block wiring and switch to DCC later. (Many DCC ready locos are available now). Since the layout is divided down the middle, and if you intend to do switching, go with walk around throttle and ground throws.

I'm in N Scale and have never used DCC because of the space needed for the decoders. My feeling is that DCC would be more usefull for switching rather than for most main line running because the real railroads try to keep their trains separated in blocks anyway.

A N scaller I know converted his existing RR to DCC then converted back, not because there was anything wrong with DCC, but because the DCC did not enhance operation for the way he perferred to operate his layout..

Don

[DSchmitt]

Get at least one basic book on model railroad wiring and look at the examples in it.
Its generally best to allow for at least two locos to be able to run independently (even if one locol will jut be sitting on a dead spur or siding most of the time).
DCC is probably the wave of the future, but you can start with block wiring and switch to DCC later. (Many DCC ready locos are available now). Since the layout is divided down the middle, and if you intend to do switching, go with walk around throttle and ground throws.

I'm in N Scale and have never used DCC because of the space needed for the decoders. My feeling is that DCC would be more usefull for switching rather than for most main line running because the real railroads try to keep their trains separated in blocks anyway.

A N scaller I know converted his existing RR to DCC then converted back, not because there was anything wrong with DCC, but because the DCC did not enhance operation for the way he perferred to operate his layout..

Don

[Anonymous]

sonds like your just starting out so...
1. start with a simple DC system like the tech 4's from MRC and try one or two motorized swites.
2.start with one loco and if you want more well you go buy you some more.

It seems hard at first when you start building but as you go along it will ge easyer.
Hope this helps.

[Anonymous]

sonds like your just starting out so...
1. start with a simple DC system like the tech 4's from MRC and try one or two motorized swites.
2.start with one loco and if you want more well you go buy you some more.

It seems hard at first when you start building but as you go along it will ge easyer.
Hope this helps.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by billkamery

"DCC is the norm now and will gain more and more market share in the future as the conservative members of the hobby finally give up and accept change."
Pure evangelism, wishful thinking and rationalization for the expense.

Sorry you feel so threatened by the new technology, but although you don't like it, DCC is growing in popularity all the time as prices drop and more and more DCC becomes plug-and-play simplified.

And it works very well for a small layout, because you can do all sorts of moves with multiple locomotives without having to flip block switches literally every few seconds.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by billkamery

"DCC is the norm now and will gain more and more market share in the future as the conservative members of the hobby finally give up and accept change."
Pure evangelism, wishful thinking and rationalization for the expense.

Sorry you feel so threatened by the new technology, but although you don't like it, DCC is growing in popularity all the time as prices drop and more and more DCC becomes plug-and-play simplified.

And it works very well for a small layout, because you can do all sorts of moves with multiple locomotives without having to flip block switches literally every few seconds.

[Anonymous]

Dan,
Put the power pack or DCC unit on a small shelf under the layout where it can be reached easily. Some people have used drawer slides to mount the power pack so it can be pulled out when you are operating the layout. Use Caboose Industries manual throws where they can be easily reached. Use under table where they are hard to reach and mount a small pushbutton control on the facia.

You can start without any blocks and cut gaps if you change your mind later. As I recall, this was a fairly simple loop with sidings and running 2 trains would be a problem. You could make the yard a separate block and keep a second engine there but you would have the issue of getting them switched around to run the second one.

[Anonymous]

Dan,
Put the power pack or DCC unit on a small shelf under the layout where it can be reached easily. Some people have used drawer slides to mount the power pack so it can be pulled out when you are operating the layout. Use Caboose Industries manual throws where they can be easily reached. Use under table where they are hard to reach and mount a small pushbutton control on the facia.

You can start without any blocks and cut gaps if you change your mind later. As I recall, this was a fairly simple loop with sidings and running 2 trains would be a problem. You could make the yard a separate block and keep a second engine there but you would have the issue of getting them switched around to run the second one.

[BRAKIE]

First DCC is NOT the norm as many DCC flag wavers will have you to believe..I use DCC and recommend it as a CHOICE and not a "must have".
I would use Caboose Industries ground throws and for DC the MRC Control Master 20 for walk around..For DCC I would recommend a set capable of walk around and not a fix throttle like the starters sets..This will also save you from having to upgrade at a later date when you build a bigger layout. For DC block control I would use the Atlas controller with selectors for ease of wiring.

[BRAKIE]

First DCC is NOT the norm as many DCC flag wavers will have you to believe..I use DCC and recommend it as a CHOICE and not a "must have".
I would use Caboose Industries ground throws and for DC the MRC Control Master 20 for walk around..For DCC I would recommend a set capable of walk around and not a fix throttle like the starters sets..This will also save you from having to upgrade at a later date when you build a bigger layout. For DC block control I would use the Atlas controller with selectors for ease of wiring.

[Anonymous]

"Pure evangelism, wishful thinking and rationalization for the expense".... I seen the same thing written in a 60's magazine about 2 rail HO being the future. I seen the same in a 1940's book about diesels taking over for steam. I had an uncle who said that almost word for word about JFK's speach about going to the moon. I see a day when even department stores train sets will come with DCC and a new DCC system will be $25 and decoders will be standard on even toy locomotives. Kind of like how RC cars killed off slot cars and how RC cars are found in Dollar stores for under $10 now. How computers cost 4000 and now are 400. VCR were 1000, now 39. DVD were 1000 and never will be desired over VCRs... Now 50 dollars and everyone basically has one. Records vs CDs, pocket calculators vs fingers, cell phones v bell south, computers vs a whole list of office products, telephone vs telegraph, car vs horse, trains vs canals, the list is endless.

[Anonymous]

"Pure evangelism, wishful thinking and rationalization for the expense".... I seen the same thing written in a 60's magazine about 2 rail HO being the future. I seen the same in a 1940's book about diesels taking over for steam. I had an uncle who said that almost word for word about JFK's speach about going to the moon. I see a day when even department stores train sets will come with DCC and a new DCC system will be $25 and decoders will be standard on even toy locomotives. Kind of like how RC cars killed off slot cars and how RC cars are found in Dollar stores for under $10 now. How computers cost 4000 and now are 400. VCR were 1000, now 39. DVD were 1000 and never will be desired over VCRs... Now 50 dollars and everyone basically has one. Records vs CDs, pocket calculators vs fingers, cell phones v bell south, computers vs a whole list of office products, telephone vs telegraph, car vs horse, trains vs canals, the list is endless.

[Anonymous]

"DCC is the norm now and will gain more and more market share in the future as the conservative members of the hobby finally give up and accept change."
Pure evangelism, wishful thinking and rationalization for the expense.

[Anonymous]

"DCC is the norm now and will gain more and more market share in the future as the conservative members of the hobby finally give up and accept change."
Pure evangelism, wishful thinking and rationalization for the expense.

[Anonymous]

I would use dcc, ground throws, and undertable switches both. This will make wiring a snap. If you use a prodogy you can install computer ethernet cables (cheap) and plug in as you go around the layout. DCC is the norm now and will gain more and more market share in the future as the conservative members of the hobby finally give up and accept change. Ground throws are great on mains where they are easy to get to, are cheap, and they are almost indestructable. For areas where you need to reach in, esp around brittle buildings and wonderfully landscaped terrain, an under-table switch machine is a must. Atlas machines are cheap and reliable, but others (which cost more) are slower and or last longer. Avoid on table switch machines. They look worse the longer you look at them.