MR Express - Biggest challenges in tracklaying

[ssgauge]

I handlay my own track and use "hot frogs" in my switches...I like the smooth operation through the frog, especially with solder-based flangeways. I also like to have a prototypical gap between the open point rail and the stock rail, but that of course can lead to electrical shorts when the back of the locomotive driver comes close to or even lightly touches the open point rail. The solution was to paint the back (inside of the locomotive drivers and tender wheels. I used dark brown Floquil water-based paint and it effectively insulates the inside face of the driver and eliminates the shorts.

[valleyfan628]

One challange I had a couple of years ago was keeping rail gaps open. I never bothered with the insulated rail joiners either because I had tried several and I found them worthless for code 83 rail. Many times you don't want one at the joint anyway. I don't recall where I read about the solution I now use but it works flawlessly:

1) Cut your gap with your Dremel tool or track saw.

2) Take a piece of styrene close to the thickness of the gap and cut a strip approximately the width of the rail and at least long enough to reach from the top of the rail to the bottom of the gap.

3) Insert the styrene in the gap and coat with a medium or thick CA adhesive and allow to dry.

4) Trim and file the hardened CA / styrene ensuring the flangeway is clear.

This will result in an insulated joint that should never close or come separated. If you paint your rail like I do, you never even know there is a gap there.


I also have been a track nailer / spiker until I decided to try the caulk adhesive method after I read about it in MR. I've since laid about 80 feet using this method and so far, it's great.

[valleyfan628]

One challange I had a couple of years ago was keeping rail gaps open. I never bothered with the insulated rail joiners either because I had tried several and I found them worthless for code 83 rail. Many times you don't want one at the joint anyway. I don't recall where I read about the solution I now use but it works flawlessly:

1) Cut your gap with your Dremel tool or track saw.

2) Take a piece of styrene close to the thickness of the gap and cut a strip approximately the width of the rail and at least long enough to reach from the top of the rail to the bottom of the gap.

3) Insert the styrene in the gap and coat with a medium or thick CA adhesive and allow to dry.

4) Trim and file the hardened CA / styrene ensuring the flangeway is clear.

This will result in an insulated joint that should never close or come separated. If you paint your rail like I do, you never even know there is a gap there.


I also have been a track nailer / spiker until I decided to try the caulk adhesive method after I read about it in MR. I've since laid about 80 feet using this method and so far, it's great.

[Anonymous]

In the July 24th MR Express, Terry Thompson asked what your biggest challenges in tracklaying are and how you overcome them. Please share your thoughts below, or read MR Express http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/004/438nafcr.asp

[Anonymous]

In the July 24th MR Express, Terry Thompson asked what your biggest challenges in tracklaying are and how you overcome them. Please share your thoughts below, or read MR Express http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/004/438nafcr.asp