MR Express - Biggest challenges in tracklaying

[CP5415]

My biggest challenge is not being interrupted when I actually get to work on tracklaying.
I love my wife & daughter they are number one on my list, but sometimes....

Gordon

[Anonymous]

I'll have to agree with dknelson, geting started has always been the hardest part for me as well.

[Anonymous]

I'll have to agree with dknelson, geting started has always been the hardest part for me as well.

[snowey]

that "sticky roadbed stuff" is called AMI INSTA-BED.

[snowey]

that "sticky roadbed stuff" is called AMI INSTA-BED.

[Anonymous]

track laying , TRACKLAYING!!!! i hate tracklaying espesillay nailing the stuff but i found that sticky roadbed stuff its perfect chucked all my nails out that day

Codyr

[Anonymous]

track laying , TRACKLAYING!!!! i hate tracklaying espesillay nailing the stuff but i found that sticky roadbed stuff its perfect chucked all my nails out that day

Codyr

[Anonymous]

Any tips on getting started working with flex track? I'm a TOTAL rookie.

[Anonymous]

Any tips on getting started working with flex track? I'm a TOTAL rookie.

[Anonymous]

I speak from research experience toward my second layout: READ ALL THE LITERATURE you can lay hands on.

Read John Armstrong particularly. See his book on prototype features and their application to model RR layouts. Several people comment on curves devouring space they were pained to loose. John will clear away your pain. Read about SQUARES, how calculated and how applied to your dream plans for realistic nailing to the table.

These books go for $18 to 20-odd so aren't cheap. You will get yer money back first time you go from chaulk to cookie-cut plywood. The classics are in your library, too.

Now, hand-laying track??duno. Hand laying TURNOUTS??wow. CURVED turnouts, ah! maybe worth the learning curve....Would any of you lay-it-flawlessly-w-yer-eyes-closed guys/gals talk up the techniques of this, please??!

[Anonymous]

I speak from research experience toward my second layout: READ ALL THE LITERATURE you can lay hands on.

Read John Armstrong particularly. See his book on prototype features and their application to model RR layouts. Several people comment on curves devouring space they were pained to loose. John will clear away your pain. Read about SQUARES, how calculated and how applied to your dream plans for realistic nailing to the table.

These books go for $18 to 20-odd so aren't cheap. You will get yer money back first time you go from chaulk to cookie-cut plywood. The classics are in your library, too.

Now, hand-laying track??duno. Hand laying TURNOUTS??wow. CURVED turnouts, ah! maybe worth the learning curve....Would any of you lay-it-flawlessly-w-yer-eyes-closed guys/gals talk up the techniques of this, please??!

[Anonymous]

Finding/making time to work on my layout!

[Anonymous]

Finding/making time to work on my layout!

[Anonymous]

Good looking and good operating track and turnouts are more important to me than great scenery. I build all my own track and turnouts, I use a lot of manual turnouts and use a divice like the one shone in the Dec. MR. I've added contacts to this, so the power is routed through these as well as the points. As far as getting smooth curves, I solder two lengths of rail together with a joiner in a streight line then bend them into the curve.

[Anonymous]

Good looking and good operating track and turnouts are more important to me than great scenery. I build all my own track and turnouts, I use a lot of manual turnouts and use a divice like the one shone in the Dec. MR. I've added contacts to this, so the power is routed through these as well as the points. As far as getting smooth curves, I solder two lengths of rail together with a joiner in a streight line then bend them into the curve.

[Anonymous]

Fitting Märklin Z scale track lengths together can be a test of patience. For some reason, certain sections don't want to fit together neatly. Ripping out a promising looking, already laid section to try has always worked though. I guess the tiny size magnifies the smallest incompatibility. Getting the long straight run to be straight is also fun and games. I've used a yardstick laid next to the track for a guide as I spike the track. Because Z is so light, I've been able to get away with using foam-filled board as a baseboard, two layers glued together. It's quite rigid. The advantage of this material is that spiking is sufficiently secure to hold track in place but nevertheless easy to remove if need be. I used a small metal spatula slipped under the track when I reconfigured and enlarged my layout last week.
Wiring up electrically operated switches/points is a chore that I would rather do without. I want radio-operated remote-control switches in Z scale - any takers?!

[Anonymous]

Fitting Märklin Z scale track lengths together can be a test of patience. For some reason, certain sections don't want to fit together neatly. Ripping out a promising looking, already laid section to try has always worked though. I guess the tiny size magnifies the smallest incompatibility. Getting the long straight run to be straight is also fun and games. I've used a yardstick laid next to the track for a guide as I spike the track. Because Z is so light, I've been able to get away with using foam-filled board as a baseboard, two layers glued together. It's quite rigid. The advantage of this material is that spiking is sufficiently secure to hold track in place but nevertheless easy to remove if need be. I used a small metal spatula slipped under the track when I reconfigured and enlarged my layout last week.
Wiring up electrically operated switches/points is a chore that I would rather do without. I want radio-operated remote-control switches in Z scale - any takers?!

[fwright]

Hand-laid my track twenty+ years ago in HO using code 70 rail...now getting back in the hobby with a mixture of HO and HOn3.

Question #1: Is spiking code 55 rail practical? Which spikes are small enough?

Question #2: Homasote is/was difficult to find but worked well for hand-laying track (once - if you had to take up the track the top paper surface disappeared and so did the spike holding qualities). Is the extruded insulation foam board (pink or blue) a suitable replacement? Has anybody tried gluing ties to the foam board? Does it hold spikes without curling them (most soft wood roadbeds I have tried curled way too many spikes)?

Question #3: What about cork as a roadbed for hand-laid track? In the 1950's and '60s, the word was don't hand-lay track on cork because the cork would shift, but we nailed the cork down instead of gluing it, and it was twice as thick (1/2 inch instead of 1/4 inch). Would gluing today's thin cork, with ties glued to the cork be rigid enough?

Fred Wright

[fwright]

Hand-laid my track twenty+ years ago in HO using code 70 rail...now getting back in the hobby with a mixture of HO and HOn3.

Question #1: Is spiking code 55 rail practical? Which spikes are small enough?

Question #2: Homasote is/was difficult to find but worked well for hand-laying track (once - if you had to take up the track the top paper surface disappeared and so did the spike holding qualities). Is the extruded insulation foam board (pink or blue) a suitable replacement? Has anybody tried gluing ties to the foam board? Does it hold spikes without curling them (most soft wood roadbeds I have tried curled way too many spikes)?

Question #3: What about cork as a roadbed for hand-laid track? In the 1950's and '60s, the word was don't hand-lay track on cork because the cork would shift, but we nailed the cork down instead of gluing it, and it was twice as thick (1/2 inch instead of 1/4 inch). Would gluing today's thin cork, with ties glued to the cork be rigid enough?

Fred Wright

[eastcoast]

TRYING TO KEEP MY WORK AREA UNCLUTTERED WITH TOOLS
AND THEN WHEN I DO CLEAN UP, CAN'T FIND ANYTHING I PUT AWAY.

[eastcoast]

TRYING TO KEEP MY WORK AREA UNCLUTTERED WITH TOOLS
AND THEN WHEN I DO CLEAN UP, CAN'T FIND ANYTHING I PUT AWAY.

[nslakediv]

jbox1015. put a straight tangent in between s-curve. tangent should be as long as longest piece of rolling stock. no problem.

[nslakediv]

jbox1015. put a straight tangent in between s-curve. tangent should be as long as longest piece of rolling stock. no problem.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tomwatkins

Getting powered switch machines adjusted so that they work reliably. Which of course means to throw completely every time. I decided to go with twin-pole machines instead of switch motors because of cost. Bad Decision. I'm currently converting as many turnouts as possible to manual operation.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tomwatkins

Getting powered switch machines adjusted so that they work reliably. Which of course means to throw completely every time. I decided to go with twin-pole machines instead of switch motors because of cost. Bad Decision. I'm currently converting as many turnouts as possible to manual operation.

[bruce22]

maximizing the number of manually thrown turnouts and watching for vertical rises at rail joints.

[bruce22]

maximizing the number of manually thrown turnouts and watching for vertical rises at rail joints.

[Anonymous]

Getting N scale track perfectly straight is always a challenge, especially when using track nails. I just tried liquid nails for projects and its great - sticky but just enough wiggle and time to work to get the track where you want it.

My other problem is cutting and fitting the little half inch pieces usually necessary when doing intricate track work.

[Anonymous]

Getting N scale track perfectly straight is always a challenge, especially when using track nails. I just tried liquid nails for projects and its great - sticky but just enough wiggle and time to work to get the track where you want it.

My other problem is cutting and fitting the little half inch pieces usually necessary when doing intricate track work.

[willy6]

one of my problems was ballasting on a turnout. all those little rocks getting into the moving parts.i just let the glue dry and take my handy pocket screwdriver and start chipping them out.