I hate cork road bed

[Anonymous]

You can buy cork rolls (usually used on the floor to absorb noise). They sell this stuff in building centers.
It is cheaper, you get plenty of cork ,they have differnet sizes and they have thin and thick ones.
And, there is no height difference anymore. You simply roll out the cork, cut it off and shape it as you need it.
That's the way i do. Why spend so much money on special road beds ?

[eihndrsn]

I used Peco underlay on my HO portable layout I built in the early 1960's. I flooded it with diluted white glue and then sprinkled fine ballast on and pressed it in, later cleaning off the surplus. The track is still in use although pieces I didn't use and hoarded disintegrated years ago. I have an N scale layout with some sections 26 years old and still on Peco underlay. Newer sections are either on cork or Homasote and fully ballasted as I gained better scenery skill.
Ian

[eihndrsn]

I used Peco underlay on my HO portable layout I built in the early 1960's. I flooded it with diluted white glue and then sprinkled fine ballast on and pressed it in, later cleaning off the surplus. The track is still in use although pieces I didn't use and hoarded disintegrated years ago. I have an N scale layout with some sections 26 years old and still on Peco underlay. Newer sections are either on cork or Homasote and fully ballasted as I gained better scenery skill.
Ian

[BR60103]

and if you have large thin sheets of cork, you can quickly make long narrow thin strips of cork for single track roadbed.

[BR60103]

and if you have large thin sheets of cork, you can quickly make long narrow thin strips of cork for single track roadbed.

[Anonymous]

You can go to Target, stationary stores, office supply, art stores, etc. for large thin sheets of cork (designed for bullitin boards) to make yard areas with.

[Anonymous]

You can go to Target, stationary stores, office supply, art stores, etc. for large thin sheets of cork (designed for bullitin boards) to make yard areas with.

[Anonymous]

I hate loose ballasting , its very messy and if you change your mind about track position you destroy the track trying to get it up again. Ive also tried foam rubber underlay ( from Peco ) which looks pretty horrid and disintegrates after a few years. So I have decided to use Fleischmann Profi Track, which is ready ballasted on my latest layout. This high quality track has a very realistic appearance and if the areas between the tracks are laid with thin cork sheet and then ballasted the difference in height is minimised.

[Anonymous]

I hate loose ballasting , its very messy and if you change your mind about track position you destroy the track trying to get it up again. Ive also tried foam rubber underlay ( from Peco ) which looks pretty horrid and disintegrates after a few years. So I have decided to use Fleischmann Profi Track, which is ready ballasted on my latest layout. This high quality track has a very realistic appearance and if the areas between the tracks are laid with thin cork sheet and then ballasted the difference in height is minimised.

[Anonymous]

I have "N" scale and that figures to be a 20 inch bed, not too far off and folliage works to hide it. I have tried using my band saw, setting up a block of wood each side of the blade (as a rip fence) pulling the cork between the fences and I end up with two pieces just under 1/16 thick that work out great when used as as sidewalk on street scenes (1/16 thick equals a 9 inch curb) just paint it gray and you have a stony walkway.

[Anonymous]

I have "N" scale and that figures to be a 20 inch bed, not too far off and folliage works to hide it. I have tried using my band saw, setting up a block of wood each side of the blade (as a rip fence) pulling the cork between the fences and I end up with two pieces just under 1/16 thick that work out great when used as as sidewalk on street scenes (1/16 thick equals a 9 inch curb) just paint it gray and you have a stony walkway.

[der5997]

Thanks Rick: I'll take a look @ the AMI site. It's very easy to round the edges of that stuff BTW, you 100 grit sandpaper folks. Just press it with a thumb! Also, the thickness is somewhat adjustable as you put it down, streaching it thins it. From Canada's other coast, Nova Scotia. (Courage, mon brave!)

[der5997]

Thanks Rick: I'll take a look @ the AMI site. It's very easy to round the edges of that stuff BTW, you 100 grit sandpaper folks. Just press it with a thumb! Also, the thickness is somewhat adjustable as you put it down, streaching it thins it. From Canada's other coast, Nova Scotia. (Courage, mon brave!)

[Anonymous]

Yep. glue it down and block sand the edges with 100 grit to round off the sharp angle. If you are like me you break it in two. Sanding also removes that rough overhang. I then paint the track with flat brown spray paint before I nail it down. Spray it lightly and wipe tops of rails off with rag or scrape it off after it's dry. I then ballast with play sand from the lumberyard. It's cheap and is same color as the cork. For variety i last sprinkle on some white or gray ballast or sand from hobby lobby used for sand bottle art. One can also use an airbru***o spray a grease line down the center. Remove ramdom ties, color every third tie black or silver gray...

[Anonymous]

Yep. glue it down and block sand the edges with 100 grit to round off the sharp angle. If you are like me you break it in two. Sanding also removes that rough overhang. I then paint the track with flat brown spray paint before I nail it down. Spray it lightly and wipe tops of rails off with rag or scrape it off after it's dry. I then ballast with play sand from the lumberyard. It's cheap and is same color as the cork. For variety i last sprinkle on some white or gray ballast or sand from hobby lobby used for sand bottle art. One can also use an airbru***o spray a grease line down the center. Remove ramdom ties, color every third tie black or silver gray...

[Anonymous]

der,
Go to the AMI web site. I seem to recall they address re-vitalizing the roadbed - heat I think (hair blower) but not 100% sure.

[Anonymous]

der,
Go to the AMI web site. I seem to recall they address re-vitalizing the roadbed - heat I think (hair blower) but not 100% sure.

[Anonymous]

Sand it? That is agood idea!

[Anonymous]

Sand it? That is agood idea!

[Anonymous]

I wouldn't use ash for ballast as it is caustic and may have long term effects on the plastic ties and rail. Here in Missouri roadbeds are anywhere betwee 100 feet deep in a ditch to 20 feet in the air. The track stays level but the ground doesn't. The best trick I found with cork is to sand it with 100 grit paper to round the edges before the track goes down... makes ballasting easier and prettier.

[Anonymous]

I wouldn't use ash for ballast as it is caustic and may have long term effects on the plastic ties and rail. Here in Missouri roadbeds are anywhere betwee 100 feet deep in a ditch to 20 feet in the air. The track stays level but the ground doesn't. The best trick I found with cork is to sand it with 100 grit paper to round the edges before the track goes down... makes ballasting easier and prettier.

[Anonymous]

I just read an article on using insulation foam tape that sounded pretty good too. Yes in my area there is a major variation in overall hight. But you need to start somewhere. I kind of wish I could build senery first.

[Anonymous]

I just read an article on using insulation foam tape that sounded pretty good too. Yes in my area there is a major variation in overall hight. But you need to start somewhere. I kind of wish I could build senery first.

[der5997]

Hello csxrailfanmike: I have a couple of yards laid on foam insulation. I haven't got around to senic treatment for them yet. I was thinking of using wood stove ash sifted over, brushing the surplus from the track itself, misting with "wet" water, and flooding with matte medium to set the whole thing up. I'll cover over the turnouts before applying the ash. What do you think? Am I making trouble for myself?

[der5997]

Hello csxrailfanmike: I have a couple of yards laid on foam insulation. I haven't got around to senic treatment for them yet. I was thinking of using wood stove ash sifted over, brushing the surplus from the track itself, misting with "wet" water, and flooding with matte medium to set the whole thing up. I'll cover over the turnouts before applying the ash. What do you think? Am I making trouble for myself?

[Anonymous]

I build up my scenery around my roadbed in areas to reduce the track height, but in some areas I leave it. I have seen quite a variation in how high the track is here in Georgia. Sometimes I want the track sitting high on my ballast. All the ideas mentioned above about building up the scenery work -- I have used them all on my layout with great effect. You can also use foam insulation to reduce the weight of your scenery and how much filler (ballast, plaster, etc.) you'll need.

[Anonymous]

I build up my scenery around my roadbed in areas to reduce the track height, but in some areas I leave it. I have seen quite a variation in how high the track is here in Georgia. Sometimes I want the track sitting high on my ballast. All the ideas mentioned above about building up the scenery work -- I have used them all on my layout with great effect. You can also use foam insulation to reduce the weight of your scenery and how much filler (ballast, plaster, etc.) you'll need.

[der5997]

I'm in N scale, and using the AMI instant roadbed ( on foam board) for the first time. I must say that I prefer it to cork, especially since you can make it do things that cork just hasn't the "give" for. Tried it? One drawback is its stickiness, which while great for setting track, can be a challenge when replacing in the ties cut off for rail joints, etc. (Hint, don't throw out the silicone paper wrap too quickly!) I haven't put on ballast yet, and am hoping that any dried out sections can be returned to a suitable stickiness with paint thinner. Any thoughts?

[der5997]

I'm in N scale, and using the AMI instant roadbed ( on foam board) for the first time. I must say that I prefer it to cork, especially since you can make it do things that cork just hasn't the "give" for. Tried it? One drawback is its stickiness, which while great for setting track, can be a challenge when replacing in the ties cut off for rail joints, etc. (Hint, don't throw out the silicone paper wrap too quickly!) I haven't put on ballast yet, and am hoping that any dried out sections can be returned to a suitable stickiness with paint thinner. Any thoughts?

[jwfoise]

I would agree about the Woodland Scenics Roadbed, its an excellent product