I hate cork road bed

[der5997]

Thanks Rick: I'll take a look @ the AMI site. It's very easy to round the edges of that stuff BTW, you 100 grit sandpaper folks. Just press it with a thumb! Also, the thickness is somewhat adjustable as you put it down, streaching it thins it. From Canada's other coast, Nova Scotia. (Courage, mon brave!)

[der5997]

Thanks Rick: I'll take a look @ the AMI site. It's very easy to round the edges of that stuff BTW, you 100 grit sandpaper folks. Just press it with a thumb! Also, the thickness is somewhat adjustable as you put it down, streaching it thins it. From Canada's other coast, Nova Scotia. (Courage, mon brave!)

[Anonymous]

I have "N" scale and that figures to be a 20 inch bed, not too far off and folliage works to hide it. I have tried using my band saw, setting up a block of wood each side of the blade (as a rip fence) pulling the cork between the fences and I end up with two pieces just under 1/16 thick that work out great when used as as sidewalk on street scenes (1/16 thick equals a 9 inch curb) just paint it gray and you have a stony walkway.

[Anonymous]

I have "N" scale and that figures to be a 20 inch bed, not too far off and folliage works to hide it. I have tried using my band saw, setting up a block of wood each side of the blade (as a rip fence) pulling the cork between the fences and I end up with two pieces just under 1/16 thick that work out great when used as as sidewalk on street scenes (1/16 thick equals a 9 inch curb) just paint it gray and you have a stony walkway.

[Anonymous]

I hate loose ballasting , its very messy and if you change your mind about track position you destroy the track trying to get it up again. Ive also tried foam rubber underlay ( from Peco ) which looks pretty horrid and disintegrates after a few years. So I have decided to use Fleischmann Profi Track, which is ready ballasted on my latest layout. This high quality track has a very realistic appearance and if the areas between the tracks are laid with thin cork sheet and then ballasted the difference in height is minimised.

[Anonymous]

I hate loose ballasting , its very messy and if you change your mind about track position you destroy the track trying to get it up again. Ive also tried foam rubber underlay ( from Peco ) which looks pretty horrid and disintegrates after a few years. So I have decided to use Fleischmann Profi Track, which is ready ballasted on my latest layout. This high quality track has a very realistic appearance and if the areas between the tracks are laid with thin cork sheet and then ballasted the difference in height is minimised.

[Anonymous]

You can go to Target, stationary stores, office supply, art stores, etc. for large thin sheets of cork (designed for bullitin boards) to make yard areas with.

[Anonymous]

You can go to Target, stationary stores, office supply, art stores, etc. for large thin sheets of cork (designed for bullitin boards) to make yard areas with.

[BR60103]

and if you have large thin sheets of cork, you can quickly make long narrow thin strips of cork for single track roadbed.

[BR60103]

and if you have large thin sheets of cork, you can quickly make long narrow thin strips of cork for single track roadbed.

[eihndrsn]

I used Peco underlay on my HO portable layout I built in the early 1960's. I flooded it with diluted white glue and then sprinkled fine ballast on and pressed it in, later cleaning off the surplus. The track is still in use although pieces I didn't use and hoarded disintegrated years ago. I have an N scale layout with some sections 26 years old and still on Peco underlay. Newer sections are either on cork or Homasote and fully ballasted as I gained better scenery skill.
Ian

[eihndrsn]

I used Peco underlay on my HO portable layout I built in the early 1960's. I flooded it with diluted white glue and then sprinkled fine ballast on and pressed it in, later cleaning off the surplus. The track is still in use although pieces I didn't use and hoarded disintegrated years ago. I have an N scale layout with some sections 26 years old and still on Peco underlay. Newer sections are either on cork or Homasote and fully ballasted as I gained better scenery skill.
Ian

[Anonymous]

You can buy cork rolls (usually used on the floor to absorb noise). They sell this stuff in building centers.
It is cheaper, you get plenty of cork ,they have differnet sizes and they have thin and thick ones.
And, there is no height difference anymore. You simply roll out the cork, cut it off and shape it as you need it.
That's the way i do. Why spend so much money on special road beds ?

[Anonymous]

You can buy cork rolls (usually used on the floor to absorb noise). They sell this stuff in building centers.
It is cheaper, you get plenty of cork ,they have differnet sizes and they have thin and thick ones.
And, there is no height difference anymore. You simply roll out the cork, cut it off and shape it as you need it.
That's the way i do. Why spend so much money on special road beds ?

[der5997]

Thanks David Holliday for the large sheets of cork idea for yards. My yards are already down, track directly on the foam insulation board. I was wondering what might be the best medium for ballast between the tracks all over the yard area. (This applies to foam board, sheet cork, or strip cork ) I've used "White Glue" to fix the tracks because repositioning is possible with minimum damage. Just soak a cloth with water and press it onto the track to be moved. Wait a few hours until the glue looks white again, and ease the track off the roadbed. ( I dont nail my track, except on a temporary basis while the glue dries) A flat bladed paint scraper helps. The old glue scrapes off the road bed completely, and can be washed off the track if you are taking it up. Just repositioning requires simply relaying the track on the new alignment, , and regluing. If you want more flexibility under the track, and have deeper pockets, Woodland Scenics Flex Paste (C1205) might do the trick. I haven't tried repositioning already ballasted track, but imagine that if a reconstitutable medium (like white glue) has been used to apply both track and ballast it may be possible without totally destroying the ballasted track.

[der5997]

Thanks David Holliday for the large sheets of cork idea for yards. My yards are already down, track directly on the foam insulation board. I was wondering what might be the best medium for ballast between the tracks all over the yard area. (This applies to foam board, sheet cork, or strip cork ) I've used "White Glue" to fix the tracks because repositioning is possible with minimum damage. Just soak a cloth with water and press it onto the track to be moved. Wait a few hours until the glue looks white again, and ease the track off the roadbed. ( I dont nail my track, except on a temporary basis while the glue dries) A flat bladed paint scraper helps. The old glue scrapes off the road bed completely, and can be washed off the track if you are taking it up. Just repositioning requires simply relaying the track on the new alignment, , and regluing. If you want more flexibility under the track, and have deeper pockets, Woodland Scenics Flex Paste (C1205) might do the trick. I haven't tried repositioning already ballasted track, but imagine that if a reconstitutable medium (like white glue) has been used to apply both track and ballast it may be possible without totally destroying the ballasted track.

[der5997]

Rick Nicholson: Good memory regarding the AMI roadbed and how to get it sticky again. Here's what the AMI site has to say :-
3c Pressing the track down. To distribute the pressure uniformly, use a length of board. To make the ballast line appear higher, press the ties deeper into the Instant Roadbed. Rubber cement will also soften the Instant Roadbed so that it is easier to press the ties of the track deeper. Another method to soften Instant Roadbed is to heat it with a hair dryer or by placing the strip or the whole roll in a warmed oven at the lowest setting.
Seems like domestic bliss is once again about to be endangered! "You're putting what in the oven?!!!"

[der5997]

Rick Nicholson: Good memory regarding the AMI roadbed and how to get it sticky again. Here's what the AMI site has to say :-
3c Pressing the track down. To distribute the pressure uniformly, use a length of board. To make the ballast line appear higher, press the ties deeper into the Instant Roadbed. Rubber cement will also soften the Instant Roadbed so that it is easier to press the ties of the track deeper. Another method to soften Instant Roadbed is to heat it with a hair dryer or by placing the strip or the whole roll in a warmed oven at the lowest setting.
Seems like domestic bliss is once again about to be endangered! "You're putting what in the oven?!!!"

[Anonymous]

Attention... Elmer's white glue is now on sale at WalMart 5 four once bottles for $1. The stuff is $.78 normal.

[Anonymous]

Attention... Elmer's white glue is now on sale at WalMart 5 four once bottles for $1. The stuff is $.78 normal.

[Anonymous]

I'm up to ballasting now. I bought wood lands scenics dry ballast cement wich didn't work. Now its diluted white glue on ballast. Now the problem is getting it perfectly uniform. How do I get this stuff the right shape all around.

I'm so glad this is just a small learning layout.

[Anonymous]

I'm up to ballasting now. I bought wood lands scenics dry ballast cement wich didn't work. Now its diluted white glue on ballast. Now the problem is getting it perfectly uniform. How do I get this stuff the right shape all around.

I'm so glad this is just a small learning layout.

[wp8thsub]

"I'm up to ballasting now... Now the problem is getting it perfectly uniform. How do I get this stuff the right shape all around."

Shaping ballast is easy if you use a soft paint brush. My favorites are artist's "flat" brushes (an important distinction since "flats" have longer bristles than "brights") about 3/8" - 1/2" wide.

For applying glue I've gone almost entirely away from dribbling diluted white or yellow glue on the ballast since the shape can be disturbed so readily. I use a good quality spray bottle intended for spraying house plants and clean it thoroughly after each use. Prior to applying glue wet the ballast with water that has some isopropyl alcohol added to break down the surface tension to allow the water, then the glue, to soak in.

[wp8thsub]

"I'm up to ballasting now... Now the problem is getting it perfectly uniform. How do I get this stuff the right shape all around."

Shaping ballast is easy if you use a soft paint brush. My favorites are artist's "flat" brushes (an important distinction since "flats" have longer bristles than "brights") about 3/8" - 1/2" wide.

For applying glue I've gone almost entirely away from dribbling diluted white or yellow glue on the ballast since the shape can be disturbed so readily. I use a good quality spray bottle intended for spraying house plants and clean it thoroughly after each use. Prior to applying glue wet the ballast with water that has some isopropyl alcohol added to break down the surface tension to allow the water, then the glue, to soak in.

[der5997]

That fine spray thing is the only way to go, I find. The bottle I use is from my wife's hair spray days, "Finesse" Non-Aerosol Hair Spray, 300ml size. Just wash out whatever the old pump spray bottle contained, and experiment. Any spray that is more than a fine mist with water will almost certainly clog up and give large drops when a dilute glue or matte medium is sprayed. I prefer to wet everything down well with the fine mist of the spray pump bottle, then eye-dropper on the dilute glue. Don't let the eye dropper end touch the ballast, and there will be no clumping or changing of the shape of the ballast. Really wet ballast just soaks up the glue without moving, but it has to be really wet.
An advantage to NOT spraying glue is that you dont have to wipe glue off the railhead when you're done, since the rails will only be wet with water.

[der5997]

That fine spray thing is the only way to go, I find. The bottle I use is from my wife's hair spray days, "Finesse" Non-Aerosol Hair Spray, 300ml size. Just wash out whatever the old pump spray bottle contained, and experiment. Any spray that is more than a fine mist with water will almost certainly clog up and give large drops when a dilute glue or matte medium is sprayed. I prefer to wet everything down well with the fine mist of the spray pump bottle, then eye-dropper on the dilute glue. Don't let the eye dropper end touch the ballast, and there will be no clumping or changing of the shape of the ballast. Really wet ballast just soaks up the glue without moving, but it has to be really wet.
An advantage to NOT spraying glue is that you dont have to wipe glue off the railhead when you're done, since the rails will only be wet with water.

[Anonymous]

DER,
You should have been around when I baked rocks from along the BC Rail line on my wife's best cookie sheets. My recommendation - don't go there!

In the thread "First Pics of My Layout", in the first picture if you look carefully, you will see three boxes of AMI read to be used (they are HO but I plan to split them for N use). Actually there are four boxes there, but only three can be seen. So I have 240 feet of AMI ready to go.

[Anonymous]

DER,
You should have been around when I baked rocks from along the BC Rail line on my wife's best cookie sheets. My recommendation - don't go there!

In the thread "First Pics of My Layout", in the first picture if you look carefully, you will see three boxes of AMI read to be used (they are HO but I plan to split them for N use). Actually there are four boxes there, but only three can be seen. So I have 240 feet of AMI ready to go.

[der5997]

rsn48 Rick, I split my AMI roadbed from HO to N by simply cutting with scissors. I was really surprised that this worked, I expected them to gum up. (Again folks, I wouldn't use the best pair from one's closest's sewing box for this, if you aspire to long life!) Ordinary $ store ones will do, just cut through before removing the backing paper, and clean off the blades with rubbing alcohol or similar if necessary. How do you do your splitting?

[der5997]

rsn48 Rick, I split my AMI roadbed from HO to N by simply cutting with scissors. I was really surprised that this worked, I expected them to gum up. (Again folks, I wouldn't use the best pair from one's closest's sewing box for this, if you aspire to long life!) Ordinary $ store ones will do, just cut through before removing the backing paper, and clean off the blades with rubbing alcohol or similar if necessary. How do you do your splitting?