I have run full bore into a walthers bumper and only had a derailment but these were the one you build gel super glued in place.
riogrande5761 I picked up two Tomar bumpers some years back when a hobby shop went out of business along with a few other things. Since I will need more, I'll probably go with the Peco Hayes bumpers.
I picked up two Tomar bumpers some years back when a hobby shop went out of business along with a few other things.
Since I will need more, I'll probably go with the Peco Hayes bumpers.
I started out using the Altas bumpers but decided they looked too bulky and have used both the Walthers and Tomar bumpers. I really like the looks of the Tomar metal bumpers when they are weathered properly. As shown above, they need to be insulated. I've even used wheel stops in a few places. I can't remember but they might be Tomar products as well. No reason to limit oneself to one type of bumper.
MisterBeasleyI never run any locomotive on any of my stub-end tracks at more than yard speed. I also try very hard to have sidings flat and level, so I don't get runaways. A gentle bump at the end of a track is all I ever expect, so a light adhesive suffices to hold a bumper in place. I use the Walthers bumpers from the kit, so I assemble them myself, paint them and weather them, and I've never had one fall apart,, either.
I'm happy that my modified bumpers will handle both the light tap, as well as the runaway at full throttle - with no apparent harm to either locomotive or coupler. Everyone has to decide what works best for them...
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I bought seven or eight Tomar bumpers about three years ago. I ordered code 70, and the packages all said code 70 on them. The rail was code 83. I hope they've fixed their packaging error by now...
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
I never run any locomotive on any of my stub-end tracks at more than yard speed. I also try very hard to have sidings flat and level, so I don't get runaways. A gentle bump at the end of a track is all I ever expect, so a light adhesive suffices to hold a bumper in place. I use the Walthers bumpers from the kit, so I assemble them myself, paint them and weather them, and I've never had one fall apart,, either.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
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My train mentor suggested using track ties put in an "X" shape at the end of each track in the yard. Interestingly, I found this tread discussing track bumpers, and some also use unwanted rail ties: [Link to other forum thread removed by moderator because it violates current forum rules.] Something to consider?
I have now replaced all the Walther's bumpers with Tomar bumpers and are pleased with them. Now what to do with the Walther's bumber's. Would a railroad build bumpers a head of time, or purchase them from a manufacturer, and then ship them out in gondolas or in other cars? I just put them in a gondola and they look like a good load to carry, but is this accurate?
JDawgOnce, a loco running at 130 smph smacked into to the plastic. The coupler off the loco and the bumper was a loss, but the 200$ plus loco was saved. I'll gladly sacrifice the bumper to save the loco.
Me too!
Back when I had my switching layout in the master bedroom, several times locomotives were saved from a trip to the floor by a sturdy bumper.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I use peco 'hayes' track bumpers for my hiddenstaging. Once glued to the rails, they have the full strength of the plywood base behind them. They have saved a couple of runaway locomotives from "leaping"to the floor. Once, a loco running at 130 smph smacked into to the plastic. The coupler off the loco and the bumper was a loss, but the 200$ plus loco was saved. I'll gladly sacrifice the bumper to save the loco, not that I have to all that often.
JJF
Prototypically modeling the Great Northern in Minnesota with just a hint of freelancing.
Yesterday is History.
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LastspikemikeI use an exacto knife to trim flashing or burrs off styrene. More accurate control.
Using an exacto knife to remove burrs is fine, that is unless the assembly that you are cleaning up has a tendency to collapse in your fingers as the OP's bumpers did. Using a file is much safer.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Don't know about the RTR ones but the kit ones are fantastic, I gel super glued them in place after building, one took a real hit when I made a mistake thinking a track was dead and it was live, derailed a few cars which was better than hitting the floor but the bumper was no worse for the wear.
LastspikemikeEt tu brute?
You really just don't get it... the OP was asking for help. This was not an invitation for you to aggravate additional people or spout off where you have no experience and should be quiet.
Mike, thank you for stating the facts.
JPD I would not trust these bumpers to stop a locomotive going at a moderate speed from blasting through the bumper to the floor.
JPD,
Even though LSM likes to spout off about that which he does not know... the answer I provided you will be very effective at stopping a locomotive from blasting through a bumper and ending up on the floor.
If this is your primary concern, the Altas code 83 bumpers are very effective when fastened through to the subroadbed, and will stop a train.
I also use a couple of packs of the kit form Walthers bumpers. They look and work fine. They don't overpower a scene, but rather fit right in.
I do have a subway station on a dead-end track. Since it's not visible, the station is wired with detectors to illuminate a LED when a subway train is in the station at the end. Nevertheless, the very end of the track is a piece of foam rubber to protect the train and particularly its coupler if I should overrun the station.
LastspikemikeThe OP had bump stop disintegrate when stroked with a file. I'm fairly sure nailing it down wouldn't help.
LastspikemikeThanks for the locomotive bogging down scenery tips.
Mike
Lastspikemikerofl
LastspikemikeThe OP suggests that even nailing down one of these Walthers Hayes bumpers wouldn't work.
LastspikemikeI'm not sure nailing down an inappropriate passenger station bump stop is a reasonable method of preventing models leaving the layout.
LastspikemikeFor locomotives it is pretty easy to just gap a rail
Lastspikemikefor most rolling stock a track bumper just marks the end of track for an operator
LastspikemikeMore robust and realistic looking things like scenery would be a better and more reliable method.
tstage Lastspikemike Relying on these to stop models leaving the layout is not smart imho. As is? - I would agree. However, my reinforced version did stop (cold) an old Athearn BB F7 at runaway speed. And there was no harm to either the F7 or the modified Hayes bumper after the test. Tom
Lastspikemike Relying on these to stop models leaving the layout is not smart imho.
As is? - I would agree. However, my reinforced version did stop (cold) an old Athearn BB F7 at runaway speed. And there was no harm to either the F7 or the modified Hayes bumper after the test.
Tom
He is just disagreeing with me because that is all he knows how to do... it is sad.
The OP asked about stopping trains, and I showed a bumper that when, as I said, is nailed all the way into the subroadbed, atually will stop a powered train and prevent it from kissing the floor.
I was trying to help the OP with his desired goals. Lesser people just want to start low-information arguments.
LastspikemikeRelying on these to stop models leaving the layout is not smart imho.
I purchased a pack of these years ago and haven't had the problems you have. I don't know if they are using cheaper plastic now to save money. It's also possible yours got damaged during handling somewhere along the line. If something were dropped on them, it could weaken the plastic. Mine are primarily for appearances. I find them to be more realistic looking than the bulky Atlas ones although I've used a few of those as well. I've also used the Tomar wheel stops in places. Whatever I think would look right in a particular location.
hon30critterI think there may be a bit of confusion about exactly which Walthers track bumpers we are talking about. Several posters have referred to the Walthers track bumper kits ($14.98 for 12) that have been available for years. I believe the OP is referring to the newer Walthers preassembled track bumpers ($9.98 for 4). I have several of the kit version and, like others have said, they are pretty solid (assuming the right glue was used of course). My suggestion to the OP would be to contact Walthers directly and tell them about his experience with the prebuilt bumpers. Walthers is generally not a company that sells junk. I'm sure they would want to know if a customer is experiencing problems with a product. Dave
My suggestion to the OP would be to contact Walthers directly and tell them about his experience with the prebuilt bumpers. Walthers is generally not a company that sells junk. I'm sure they would want to know if a customer is experiencing problems with a product.
I did note the difference. That's why I listed the different PN in my reply.
And I agree that contacting Walthers is a good suggestion. How else are they going to know there is a possible issue with their product if no one says anything?
hon30critterI think there may be a bit of confusion about exactly which Walthers track bumpers we are talking about.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
A prototype version.
I have a bunch of new bumpers from walthers but havent tried them yet. Will have to look tomorrow
SHane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
For a secure train-stopping bumper... it is hard to beat the Atlas "Code 83" bumper with four nails going all the way into the subroadbed.
I think there may be a bit of confusion about exactly which Walthers track bumpers we are talking about. Several posters have referred to the Walthers track bumper kits part #933-3511 ($14.98 for 12) that have been available for years. The OP is referring to the newer Walthers preassembled track bumpers part #948-83109 ($9.98 for 4). I have several of the kit version and, like others have said, they are pretty solid (assuming the right glue was used of course).
This thread got me wondering about the status of bumpers on my layout, so I did a quick inventory, keeping in mind that there's two more towns, each with several industrial sidings, yet to be built.
The count revealed 19 Walthers bumpers in use, with another four stored in the crane yard at Lowbanks. Most of the in-use ones are simply sitting at the ends of industrial sidings, not glued in place.The Tuckett Tobacco factory, in Mount Forest, has a pair of cast-metal bolt-on types (not yet painted) at the end of the siding. I have another two pairs of those on hand...
Here's one of the Walthers bumpers at GERN Industries...
...while it has a bit of ballast and ground cover stuck to it, it's simply sitting there, not glued in place.
Here's another one at GERN...
...it may or may not be cemented in-place, but it's likely that the scenic material heaped on part of it will keep it where it is. There are 19 Walthers bumpers currently in service, plus another four stored at Lowbanks
Here are a couple places using the always-dependable heap of dirt and gravel as a bumper-stop...
...and there's another dozen in use on this layout.
Here's the four more spare Walthers bumpers in the crane yard behind the engine shop in Lowbanks, along with four from Peco...
I also have two pairs of cast-metal Hayes-style bumpers, not yet in use.
There are several places on my layout where careless operation might put cars on the ground, and a couple where it might put cars and/or locomotives on the floor. Since I'm the sole operator, I'm also the sole repair guy...bin there, dun that.
Wayne
I bought two sets in kit form. Worked for me and the price is right.
Simon
JPD I do not want you thinking that I would purposefully run a train at high speed into any bumper. But I have grandchildren and visitors who might do so accidentally. I am not willing to risk my equipment on these flimsy bumpers. In the past I used Tomar Industries Bumping Posts, they are a lot more expensive, but as they are made of soldered metal, they are strong and easy to install as long as you remember to isolate them from the rest of the track. I guess I was penny wise and pound foolish.
I do not want you thinking that I would purposefully run a train at high speed into any bumper. But I have grandchildren and visitors who might do so accidentally. I am not willing to risk my equipment on these flimsy bumpers.
In the past I used Tomar Industries Bumping Posts, they are a lot more expensive, but as they are made of soldered metal, they are strong and easy to install as long as you remember to isolate them from the rest of the track. I guess I was penny wise and pound foolish.
I started out some years back with Tomar Industries bumping posts but, as you say, they are way too expensive, especially if you need a lot of them. And, since they are conductive, you need to isolate them from the powered tracks. Kind of a pain.
Rich
Alton Junction
I bought a bunch of those bumpers when they first were available as kits. I found them to be rather robust.
In the places where I needed them to actually stop an errant car I drilled a small hole in the crossmember and used a long track spike to hold the bumper in place.
I did notice that when Walthers sourced their injection molding to countries in Asia, they began to use a very poor grade of styrene. Most of their earlier styrene Cornerstone kits were made in Denmark. I first noticed this when attempting to glue parts from their refinery piping kit. I'll bet the styrene is loaded with more recycled junk.
https://www.walthers.com/track-bumpers-4-pack-kit-brown
If you are truly looking for something to STOP the movement of trains past a certain point you'd be best served by making your own and drilling into the sub roadbed for secure anchorage.
Bumper_Stop-Timber by Edmund, on Flickr
These days I'm looking for more for appearance than functionality. I like the looks of the Peco Hayes bumper:
Hays_2 by Edmund, on Flickr
Chem_pave1 by Edmund, on Flickr
These won't stand up to anything more than a light tap, though.
Good Luck, Ed