Fantastic! Your buildings look better that the display I saw about 20 years ago at the Museum of Science and Industry. I'm not sure, but I think it was O scale, or what I tend to think of as O27.
Have you solved your power draw problems?
A bittersweet end to the warm weather season of baseball games, biking and vacations. I've started the 3d printer back up. This latest project was a quick build made from some leftover pieces from Walthers kits. Mostly cornice pieces and doors. I also have tons of 3d printed furniture excess from other projects I populated as entourage for the interior. The only major 3d printing was the wall panels.
The inspiration is the intersection of Damen Ave and North Avenues at Milwaukee Ave in Chicago's Wicker Park / bucktown neighborhood. The 6-way intersection creates some cool angled structures and I was hoping to capture that since I needed some complimentary structures to a CMR tower I have shown in the pictures.
The lower level of the building contains apartment entrances as well as 2 commercial tenants....a vintage record store and donut / bakery shop. The upper floors are meant to have once been commercial but were converted to apartments with 2 modern steel and glass penthouse levels added to the top...for which I still need to add balcony railings.
I like the start of this new series where I'll burn through a huge container of leftover parts since so many kits come with extra pieces that I'd hate to just throw away.
Lorel Building by Ravenswood Scale Structures, on Flickr
I actually have them wired 4 in series. Basically one series circuit is a floor of a building. The rest is parallel. They are bright and run on 24 volts dc (pass-through) or individual load centers for city block clusters on 16 volts ac. The downtown portion alone is likely at 300 watts.
NorthsideChiThese are drawing about 5 amps on a 1.5 amp power source, so I need to get that resolved before I start lighting them up more often.
I've looked through this thread before (very nice work, by the way) but just noticed this comment. In case you don't already know, you can often reduce the current draw of LEDs by wiring them in series/parallel instead of straight parallel. For example, if you are powering them with 12 volts and currently have them all wired in parallel, by wiring groups of three in series you can cut the current draw in third and still have the same light output. The only criteria to do this is the total voltage drop of the LEDs in series has to be less than the supply voltage (white LEDs are usually around 3.5 volts, 3.5 x 3 = 10.5 < 12) and the LEDs in each particular series will all be running at the same current level (though each series can be adjusted independently).
NorthsideChi Thanks John. Attending WS game 5 was a great moment in my life And for the cubs. For any baseball fan, Wrigley is a place worth visiting. I did develop a model file of the stadium. Mostly the grand stand portions are completed and adapted to print properly. For example, the exterior elevation lattices and railings as well as the seating or steel rivets had to show clearly. I printed a test "slice" of the stadium "cake" and was happy with the results. Problem is at prototype scale, Wrigely is over 5' X 5' on the table. It could be shrunk down to 4' X 4' and still look convincing but I felt this project would only make sense in a large exhibition model if that ever happens. For now, the layout I'm building is modeled after a fictional city in the Chicago metro, so adapting it to look more like a minor league facility with Wrigley's archiecture is likely the ultimate endgame.
Thanks John. Attending WS game 5 was a great moment in my life And for the cubs. For any baseball fan, Wrigley is a place worth visiting.
I did develop a model file of the stadium. Mostly the grand stand portions are completed and adapted to print properly. For example, the exterior elevation lattices and railings as well as the seating or steel rivets had to show clearly. I printed a test "slice" of the stadium "cake" and was happy with the results. Problem is at prototype scale, Wrigely is over 5' X 5' on the table. It could be shrunk down to 4' X 4' and still look convincing but I felt this project would only make sense in a large exhibition model if that ever happens. For now, the layout I'm building is modeled after a fictional city in the Chicago metro, so adapting it to look more like a minor league facility with Wrigley's archiecture is likely the ultimate endgame.
I attended Wrigley Field with my father about 30 years ago for a doubleheader with the Dodgers. He couldn't believe that on a weekday they were still almost sold out. The only seats available were the upper grandstand along the right field line. He was from Milwaukee and had grown up a Cubs fan but switched his allegiance to the Braves when they moved to Milwaukee. He switched back to the Cubs when the Braves left for Atlanta.
I decided the only way to include a ballpark on my layout was to make it part of a photo backdrop. The problem is finding one with the right perspective. I looked for photos of old ballparks including Wrigley, Ebbets Field, the Polo Grounds, etc. all were taken too close to the stadium to give the proper perspective. I finally found a shot of Cleveland's old Municipal Stadium taken from across a parking lot behind the centerfield scoreboard. I scaled it down slightly to make it look like a minor league ballpark and I think it looks just right behind my 3D structures, seemingly several blocks away. I also found an indoor arena and positioned it the same way. I think both are fairly convincing representations of sports venues.
I'm impressed that you have created the files to do Wrigley field. If I was starting out, I would definitely look into 3-D printing. It seems to be a hobby within a hobby. At the current stage of my layout, I would find limited usefulness for it. I'll just have to admire creations by other modelers such as yourself.
When I lived in Chicago, not far from Wrigley Field, I lived in an apartment on Dakin St, close to Sheridan Rd. A lot of the apartments on Dakin St. looked a lot like your models. Brings back a lot of memories.
Great job, Joe
NorthsideChi Well, baseball is back and I'll be finding my evenings and weekends at Wrigley Field and of course all the other outdoor activities that summer brings. Therefore this will be my last major update for awhile. Here's what was done in the last couple of months: Chicago 2 and 3 flats. These are pretty much the most basic of housing in Chicago. You'll find them everywhere in this city. Not as embelished as the city's greystones, or 1800's era Italianate, Romanesque or Queen Anne, but they were fast and easy to build and yet very durable and have been easily adapted into modern homes today. I created a basic model for the back and sides, and the facades can be interchanged and redesigned for all sorts of different styles. I do have intentions of possibly making these files available Chicago 2 and 3 Flats by Ravenswood Scale Structures, on Flickr Chicago 2 and 3 Flats by Ravenswood Scale Structures, on Flickr Chicago 2 and 3 flats by Ravenswood Scale Structures, on Flickr Chicago 2 and 3 flats by Ravenswood Scale Structures, on Flickr
Well, baseball is back and I'll be finding my evenings and weekends at Wrigley Field and of course all the other outdoor activities that summer brings. Therefore this will be my last major update for awhile. Here's what was done in the last couple of months:
Chicago 2 and 3 flats. These are pretty much the most basic of housing in Chicago. You'll find them everywhere in this city. Not as embelished as the city's greystones, or 1800's era Italianate, Romanesque or Queen Anne, but they were fast and easy to build and yet very durable and have been easily adapted into modern homes today. I created a basic model for the back and sides, and the facades can be interchanged and redesigned for all sorts of different styles. I do have intentions of possibly making these files available
Chicago 2 and 3 Flats by Ravenswood Scale Structures, on Flickr
Chicago 2 and 3 flats by Ravenswood Scale Structures, on Flickr
Rich
Alton Junction
I was born in Chicago and have been back many times since. Your structures definitely capture the feel of the city's architecture. It would probably be too much to create a 3-D Wrigley field but maybe you could recreate those apartment buildings across the street with the rooftop bleachers.
PS. We were southsiders and my mother was a lifelong White Sox fan. Sadly, she never lived to see them finally capture a World Series title. You finally saw the curse lifted back in 2016.
Very nice work! Doing all that by hand would take months, if not longer!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Next up are 2 structures that many of you would be familiar with. Back when I returned to the hobby in 2015, I built these two Bachmann structures and then attempted to build interiors out of styrene sheets and printed background I collaged in photoshop. It looked OK, but I really wanted to give this a try with the 3d printed interiors. Additionally, the people inside are literally printed onto the floor slab. I can't begin to explain how much easier they are to paint that way instead of trying to paint and them glue them in place So, I made an exchange with a friend and I rebuilt these two structures and completed the intended interior buildouts.
Loft Building (Dept Store by Bachmann) by Ravenswood Scale Structures, on Flickr
Loft Building by Ravenswood Scale Structures, on Flickr
Department and Furniture Stores by Ravenswood Scale Structures, on Flickr
Department Store by Ravenswood Scale Structures, on Flickr
Here's a few other projects I completed or I'm working on that will also have 3d printed interiors.
Milwaukee Ale Brewery.
American Hardware. Kitbashed 3 kits! This will be an urban market complex
Gorham building by Custom model railroads. This will have a detailed interior
Also, I received a few requests to build the entire block of Alta Vista Ave in Chicago. You can view that on google streetview to see why. Not a particularly difficult endeavor, so that's likely to happen this year.
Your structures are maginificent. You are becoming the George Selios of 3D printing.
A few finishing touches. Since this model is an adapted version of the Farwell Building in Detroit, I'll call it Farwell Furniture store.
Furniture Store by Ravenswood Scale Structures, on Flickr
This fire escape has no glue! Snapped together and it won't be moving anywhere
Furniture Store Fire Escape by Ravenswood Scale Structures, on Flickr
Thank you! And thanks for the sharing the link. Incredible to see such detail in a small space.
I plan to show how I have an entire city stored in custom built crates to fit city blocks on a standard shelving unit. In my 6 years of building, I've never set everything out all that once. But someday I will. Taking advantage of the full workshop in my condo building until someday I have a basement all to myself.
I love seeing your progress and the attention you devote to lighting and interior spaces. It reminds me of this modeler's work (https://shin-yukari.weebly.com/) with micro-displays in his N scale Uniqlo and Starbucks storefronts. Please keep sharing your work!
Just a quick update on the furniture store. Still printing the first floor interior and I'll be creating more detail on the sides as well as a rooftop sign. But it's close to completion.
Any chance we can get copies of the files? Also how do you convert your SkechUp files to stl?
That's correct, 0.05 layer height, though I usually print at 0.10 for models with brick walls as the mortar joints will be 0.10. The nozzle diameter is 0.4, though I'll sometimes trick flat prints for things like window frames or fences with a high first layer Z level to make the bulb a bit "taller" so the frames structures are 0.3 mm, but that can be difficult to do and ultimately reliable prints is the better outcome.
I can post my settings, but they aren't going to make any difference. I don't think anyone should deviate from the default settings of the slicer program unless it's something really specific. Like if I have stale filament that was near the sink and soaked up moisture, I might turn down the temperature to reduce stringing. I do sometimes use lower speeds, but it has nothing to do with print quality, but only so the printer operates in silence. If I'm going to be running a 60 hour print, the best process will be the one I never have to hear even if that means adding a few more hours.
Ultimately, it's 90% down to modeling. For example, the bridge plate girders I'm creating. I made the rivets just a bit too close to the flange in the model. The results were some strings bridging across the rivet dots. I moved them just 0.1mm away from the flange and the re-print was perfect.
Another major thing is to replace the nozzle every 6 months if used several days a week. I'll see people complain how messy their prints look and the nozzles are worn way down.
NorthsideChi Hi Robert, I can generally acheive a matched look of bricks and textures as the Walthers kits, which is the benchmark I aspire to. It does take longer though. For example, if I use the iron setting to eliminate lines and add 0.05 mm resolution it adds maybe twice the time. Just to give an example, I'm creating a curved viaduct that has plate girders that match the walthers steel urban overpass. My 3D printer can match the resolution of the rivets, flanges and railings with no problem along with the iron setting to erase those 3d print lines, but a 3 inch long girder takes 1 hour! Still worth it, to make something custom and it probably costs less than a cent to make.
Hi Robert, I can generally acheive a matched look of bricks and textures as the Walthers kits, which is the benchmark I aspire to. It does take longer though. For example, if I use the iron setting to eliminate lines and add 0.05 mm resolution it adds maybe twice the time.
Just to give an example, I'm creating a curved viaduct that has plate girders that match the walthers steel urban overpass. My 3D printer can match the resolution of the rivets, flanges and railings with no problem along with the iron setting to erase those 3d print lines, but a 3 inch long girder takes 1 hour! Still worth it, to make something custom and it probably costs less than a cent to make.
When you say resolution of 0.05mm, do you mean 0.05mm layer height? What nozzle size are you using in this situation? What horizontal stepover distance? And what is the feed rate, and the filament temperature and flow rate? In this kind of ultra-minute detail scenario, can you fiddle with slicing software settings to appropriately match layer height, nozzle size, stepover, travel feed rate, filament temperature, and filament extrusion rate?
Thanks, Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
I am envious that this technology wasn't available 20 years ago when I started my current and last layout. I see endless possibilities for it. I would have put it to great use. As it is, I need so few additional structures that it just wouldn't be cost effective to buy a 3D printer. Maybe in my next life.
Just to give an example, I'm creating a curved viaduct that has plate girders that match the walthers steel urban overpass. My 3D printer can match the resolution of the rivets, flanges and railings with no problem along with the iron setting to erase those 3d print lines, but a 3 inch long girder takes 1 hour! Still worth it, to make something custom and it probably costs less than a cent to make!
All this is very interesting, and the finished models (painted, lighted, interiors, etc) are terrific, but I'd be curious to see the raw pieces and parts as they come out of the printer. Plus a few details about the process as it applies to your specific Prusa printer.
Based on this thread and on NScale4x8's threads, I decided to get into filament 3D printing. So, I purchased a Qidi X-Max printer a few days ago and have printed several structures ranging in size from about 1.25" by 1.25" by 1" tall up to about 9" diameter by 11" tall with print times ranging from about 1 hour up to about 60 hours and with filament weights ranging from about 3 grams up to 470 grams. No failed prints or scar-damaged surfaces or hanging threads or anything like that, but everything so far is printed in candy-apple red filament. That was the color of the 1 kg print spool supplied with the printer. I have since ordered (and received) 1 kg spools of beige, matte light brown, and cool gray filament.
I tried to PM you (NorthsideChi) and NScale4x8, but that didn't work, so I am asking a few nosy questions and making possibly impertinent requests in open forum. Apologies.
NorthsideChi Hi Rich, These will be at the center of the layout. It will be present day and represents a fictional suburb of Chicago like Aurora, Elgin or Joliet It's not the most exciting layout in terms of track. A simple elevated 4 track viaduct through the center of downtown. But there will be working lift bridges (already assembled) and an industrial area with yards and switches. The buildings shown are the only high rises on the layout The rest of it is modest 1 to 5 story structures. Im doing things opposite here. I've finished buildings and bridges. But there's no benchwork. Still working on those modules and when it's all done, I'll sign a lease in a nearby commercial building to set it all up.
Hi Rich,
These will be at the center of the layout. It will be present day and represents a fictional suburb of Chicago like Aurora, Elgin or Joliet It's not the most exciting layout in terms of track. A simple elevated 4 track viaduct through the center of downtown. But there will be working lift bridges (already assembled) and an industrial area with yards and switches. The buildings shown are the only high rises on the layout The rest of it is modest 1 to 5 story structures.
Im doing things opposite here. I've finished buildings and bridges. But there's no benchwork. Still working on those modules and when it's all done, I'll sign a lease in a nearby commercial building to set it all up.
NorthsideChi Here's a quick update of the downtown collection I have coming together. Not arranged in any particlar order. The models to the left are from custom model railroads and are kit structures you can buy. But I 3d printed their interiors myself. The towers to the right are entirely 3d printed. I rarely light these all at once. These are drawing about 5 amps on a 1.5 amp power source, so I need to get that resolved before I start lighting them up more often.
Here's a quick update of the downtown collection I have coming together. Not arranged in any particlar order. The models to the left are from custom model railroads and are kit structures you can buy. But I 3d printed their interiors myself. The towers to the right are entirely 3d printed.
I rarely light these all at once. These are drawing about 5 amps on a 1.5 amp power source, so I need to get that resolved before I start lighting them up more often.
Very neat!
York1 John
Downtown highrises by Ravenswood Scale Structures, on Flickr
SeeYou190 NorthsideChi This is inspired by a real building in Detroit. It's just optimized for my layout with 2 less column bays and 1 less floor. The proportions all look perfect the way you modified it. Great job! -Kevin
NorthsideChi This is inspired by a real building in Detroit. It's just optimized for my layout with 2 less column bays and 1 less floor.
The proportions all look perfect the way you modified it.
Great job!
-Kevin
I agree 100 percent. Another fantastic job!
Ed
Semi newbie HO scale modeler coming from the O scale world
Very nice looking building. This is 3-D printed?!Thx!