The way I laid out my last layout was I got old brass, steel, whatever sectional track and laid it out, found out what worked and didn't before any roadbed was laid. Then I marked the centerline of what I liked (you can use the same sectional track many times on the same layout by laying sections and marking and moving on).
When I went to start track on my layout, I started out at the location that had the most complex trackwork and worked outward from there.
Kevin
http://chatanuga.org/RailPage.html
http://chatanuga.org/WLMR.html
Ablebakercharliefor the flex track - does it matter which side the movable rail goes in a curve - on the inside or outside?
The moveable rail goes on the inside of the curve. You can cut off the extra that will result on the ends.
Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.
Hello All,
The more details you can provide the better the great folks on these forums can help.
So many questions have been posed by responders without answers.
A vague, verbal description of your track plan doesn't help either.
Unfortunately, to post images here you need a third-party hosting site, which can be a frustrating process.
I'm not a fan of track on cork, so I won't go into detail on that.
From the "had I known then what I know now" realm...
As has been posted, I would have painted the base- -in my case foam as well- -before laying track.
I used only sectional track on my pike. For the discrepancies in plan to reality, I fabricated my own flex track.
Check out this thread on the process: DIY Flex Track
I've used this same method to "customize" curved turnouts to fit my needs as well.
Several "tools" will also make the process easier.
"T" pins are an immense help in positioning roadbed and/or track; curved or straight, along with securing track to said roadbed. The 2-inch version is the most versatile. These can be found at craft stores and online, which will be much cheaper than acquiring them through railroad-specific hobby retailers.
Although I used sectional track, with set radii, I still needed a way to find the center lines of the curves for the roadbed.
For this I fabricated trammels. I made them out of wooden yardsticks; found at most hardware/home improvement stores.
The three radii I was dealing with were: 15-, 18-, and 22-inches. For these, I cut the yardsticks at 17-, 20- and 24-inch lengths.
The "zero" point of the trammel will actually be at the 1-inch mark on the yardstick. The setpoint will be one inch (recommended) from the end of the cut length, hence the extra 2-inches over the actual radii.
At the zero point (1-inch mark), I drilled a hole, on the mid-line, large enough for a nail to be placed.
On the other end (at the set radii mark) I drilled a hole large enough for a pencil or Sharpie marker to fit through.
From the end of the straight section of track I placed the marker end on the centerline.
After determining the center point of the radius, I pushed the nail into the foam, then drew the centerline of the curve.
For "S" or asymmetrical curves I moved the center point and scribed the arc. For curves that didn't exactly match I added a small straight section of track as an easement or transition.
After the centerlines were marked it was a matter of adhering the two halves of the split roadbed along these lines for the curves.
The straight sections of roadbed were aligned with the center lines at the ends of each piece and another yardstick, used as a straight edge, was used to ensure their trueness.
From there the track was fixed to the roadbed.
The tangents of the turnouts were marked in with the same method but placing the marker at the center of the diverging route.
Even though I used straight sectional track, I began the process of track laying with the longest section of straight track with the turnouts included.
After my initial track was installed I found that I still needed to make adjustment in the plan for optimal running.
Again, answers to questions posted always help, and...
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
AblebakercharlieIt looks to me that there are many pitfalls I could fall into if the direction of the track goes askew or if track doesn't line up etc. For example - it seems to me that I should start at a point with fixed track like the 9" straight pieces and then use the flex track when I get to it as my sort of wiggle room to make sure everything fits together. How does that sound?
Hi ABC,
This is the first time I will have responded to someone ELSE's cry for help. I joined about when you did and I have reaped heaps of useful info from the gang here. But take my comments with a grain or two of NaCl, since I'm barely even ahead of you down the pike. I've laid my cork and I'm now practicing my soldering chops so I can put some track down.
Good luck and let us know how it's going.
-Matt
to the Model Railroader Forums ABC! (I'm feeling a little lazy today.)
I'm not a fan of layouts on foam, so I won't go into detail on that.
However, I'd suggest using your proposed trackplan to replicate it in full-scale, by drawing a centre-line for all of the proposed track. This should allow you to see if everything fits, and if there are any problem areas, such as curves that are too tight or too close to the edge of the layout. Where there are parallel tracks, you can also test for clearances, especially on curves and where longer locos or rolling stock will be used.
The centre line is also a good guide for installing the cork roadbed, once any problem areas have been addressed.If you already have code 100 flex track on-hand, and it's not brass, you might as well use it - once it's in place and the sides of the rails are painted, it won't look too glaring.If it's brass, I'd strongly suggest going to code 83, in nickel-silver, and in 3' (or metre) lengths. It's a better choice, especially if your layout plan has a few places where the curves don't match-up to fixed radii.A yardstick and/or sighting-by-eye can ensure that your areas of straight track are actually straight, and if you drill a few pencil-sized holes in the yardstick and add a nail to act as a pivot point, you can lay-out the centrelines of the curves, too.
Wayne
Thanks for your response -
I plan on gluing the cork to the foamboard and pinning the track to the cork rather than gluing. I am using code 100 sectional and flex track.
Can track be painted successfully after being laid or should it really be before?
Thanks for describing how you lay your track that is very helpful! Let me ask you this - for the flex track - does it matter which side the movable rail goes in a curve - on the inside or outside?
Thanks,
charles
Thanks for your response. Here are some answers to your questions.
I bought new nickel silver track even though I have a bunch of the brass track from the 70's. I want to avoid that pitfall from the start.
The layout design reflects space contraints and the 30" reach rule of thumb. The bench work physically looks like a dog bone - fat on the ends to make 22" min radius curves and thin in the middle to give physical access to all the track.
I have been reading a lot of the old and new MRR mags - resubscribed, got the CD's that featured the 2000 - 2019 years as well as the CD with the annual payout planning editions. I have been devouring them as well as lurking here on the forum to get as much info as possible before starting.
I am one of those people who really enjoy the researching and planning before the execution part. But when the execution part comes I start procrastinating - I think largely for fear of making a wasteful mistake.
Thanks for your suggestions re the DCC. I know from the reading that DCC is superior in a lot of ways but I think I could enjoy DC just as much since I will be a lone operator. I like the idea of blocking sections of track and learning the skills of wiring and soldering.
But back to the track laying part - maybe I should ask it this way - with the whole bench a blank slate to fill where did you start and why did you start there?
Could you explain how you installed the bus wires first prior to laying the track? Did you have the track marked where it was going to go so the wires would be in proper proximity?
It would help to know what type of track you are using and how are you planning to attach the cork and track.
For example, you seem to be mixing sectional and flex track, as opposed to using all flex track.
Generally what I do is paint the surface with an earth color.
Then I draw the track center lines. I may also make a mark where the throwbar on the switches are for reference, extending the mark out past where the cork will be.
I lay the roadbed (cork) on the centerlines.
I lay the track on the cork following the center lines. Generally I will lay the switches and curves first and then connect them with the rest of the track, trimming the flex track to fit.
I cut rail and flex track with "rail nippers", or flush cutting pliers. They are available from Micro Mark and hobby shops from Xuron and most electronics stores sell them. When you cut the rail, put the "flat" side of the cutters towards the piece of track you are cutting. Then smooth the cut with a file and remove any burrs. Track can also be cut with a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
A few questions first: Are you starting from scratch, or do you have stuff you've already bought? How wide do plan your curves to be? Will your layout be a rectangle, or irregularly shaped?
I also took a 40 year vacation from model railroading. I had everything in boxes and carried it with me for all that time. I made mistakes, so I will tell you about some of them.
First, the track. Don't try to reuse old brass track. It tarnishes easily and needs more frequent and more agressive cleaning. Go with nickel silver track. I also built the first section of my layout with Code 100 track, but later sections are all Code 83. I think it looks better and trains stay on the track just as well. I don't see any need for sectional track. I use flex track everywhere.
Have you looked at other options, like a narrower around-the-walls layout? My original section was a 5x12 foot rectangular table. It was accessible from all sides, but the rule of thumb about a 30 inch reach from the edge is a good one, even stretching it a bit.
A lot of modelers run DCC now. I really like it, particularly the ability to run locomotives independently. It's something to consider.
You will have more reliable performance with a system of bus wires and feeders to power your track. I also use lighting buses for structures and street lights. I install the bus wires first, before laying any track.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Here goes - you can put me in the camp of people who were interested in model trains at an early age and then after a 40 year hiatus are re-aquainting themselves with the hobby (HO scale).
This is where I am at - I just finished my bench work - it is an 18' long by around 6' wide dog bone shaped layout. I am using 1" - 2" foamboard for the base on 1/2" plywood and am planning on laying 100 code track on cork. I am using DC for power. I created a scale layout on the computer using Railmodeller Pro that I am going to follow and am about to start laying track.
Here is the question/ advice please- I am in need of a peptalk on how to start to lay the track and cork properly. It looks to me that there are many pitfalls I could fall into if the direction of the track goes askew or if track doesn't line up etc.
For example - it seems to me that I should start at a point with fixed track like the 9" straight pieces and then use the flex track when I get to it as my sort of wiggle room to make sure everything fits together. How does that sound?
Any thoughts or advice on how to start? It seems a bit overwhelming....
Thanks.