richhotrain I might add two perpendicular blocks attached to your block to further reduce the chance of sway. Rich
I might add two perpendicular blocks attached to your block to further reduce the chance of sway.
Rich
rrebell Now you are getting beyond over kill. Any sway would be killed by the fact the front board goes the full way.
Now you are getting beyond over kill. Any sway would be killed by the fact the front board goes the full way.
Alton Junction
Water Level Route SeeYou190 Good heavens! Do you guys really run 180 degree water in your pipes? In hot water heat pipes yes, but do not confuse that for the hot water that runs out of the tap. Two different systems. In this case it's for heating the home.
SeeYou190 Good heavens! Do you guys really run 180 degree water in your pipes?
In hot water heat pipes yes, but do not confuse that for the hot water that runs out of the tap. Two different systems. In this case it's for heating the home.
OK, that sounds better. I was unaware there are seperate heating and hot water systems.
Living up North all seems very complicated.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190 OK, that sounds better. I was unaware there are seperate heating and hot water systems. Living up North all seems very complicated.
All of this could have been avoided if OP just installed one single board at a 45 degree angle. It would act like a gusset, and, long screws would allow the three boards to attach through their sides instead of short boards screwed into their ends. Much stronger.
It would be less apt to rack, and anyway, its the table top that keeps the open grid from racking.
- Douglas
It is just holding up a foam layout. It would have been fine as built, better with the extra crossmember, even better with two small reenforcements, or would have worked with a 45 degree angle.
There is no real issue here at all.
SeeYou190 It is just holding up a foam layout. It would have been fine as built, better with the extra crossmember, even better with two small reenforcements, or would have worked with a 45 degree angle. There is no real issue here at all. -Kevin
There's no sense in discussing the options anymore, as I've already built and put it up... It is going in a corner, where it will be screwed to the wall on both sides, as well as bolted to the other modules(s). It's honestly quite sturdy right now without all of that, so I think I'll be ok. Photos can be found in the Weekend Photo Fun thread.
Harrison
Homeschooler living In upstate NY a.k.a Northern NY.
Modeling the D&H in 1978.
Route of the famous "Montreal Limited"
My YouTube
Lastspikemike Cutting 45 degrees and screwing them together can be a challenge for inexperienced home carpenters. If you cut 45 degree pieces it's best to make gussets and screw them into the 90 degree corners as such. Mind you there's no structural difference between a 45 degree block and a square block except you can make two for one if you cut 45 degrees. Using a diagonal board with no corner reinforcement is no stronger than the inside out squared off design, using 90 degree corners, by the time you're done screwing the boards together.
Cutting 45 degrees and screwing them together can be a challenge for inexperienced home carpenters. If you cut 45 degree pieces it's best to make gussets and screw them into the 90 degree corners as such. Mind you there's no structural difference between a 45 degree block and a square block except you can make two for one if you cut 45 degrees. Using a diagonal board with no corner reinforcement is no stronger than the inside out squared off design, using 90 degree corners, by the time you're done screwing the boards together.
Build the box, then put in the 45 at a spot that will clear the pipe (and a piece of vertical board behind the 45 to attach the backdrop if he likes). Install the joists, with one cut at 45 at the end to accommodate the 45 board. Then cut away the corner of the box. Leave the two stub ends of the corner if he wants.
Or do the same thing but install the two boards to the wall first. Then the 45, then the outer boards on the legs, then fill in with the joists.
Lunch time!
I just finished popcorning my ceiling repairs in the hall. I used accelerator in the texture so I can paint them this afternoon.
All this talk of 45's is starting to make me feel a little dizzy. Maybe I'll have an aspirin around noon
A 45 in the corner so it's stronger and the framing doesn't rack. You mean like this?
I put one in each corner. Each of those 45's have a rabbet on each end of the 45's to make it a little stronger. And the whole table top only wieghs just over 21 lbs
It's snowing here. Hot roast beef on French bread and swiss melts it is
TF
Harrison It's honestly quite sturdy right now without all of that, so I think I'll be ok.
I m quite certain it will be perfectly fine.
I saw the pictures you shared in weekend photo fun... it all looks very good.
SeeYou190 Harrison It's honestly quite sturdy right now without all of that, so I think I'll be ok. I m quite certain it will be perfectly fine. I saw the pictures you shared in weekend photo fun... it all looks very good. -Kevin
I concur
I had a house built in the 20's with a coal furnace converted to oil with hot water radiators. It was a delightful even heat and all the radiators were covered with boxes with a diamond screen, so they weren't butt ugly.
I also had a house built in the 80's with thinner than normal copper piping. Before I sold my house, 5 houses in my block developed pinhole leaks in the pipes in a 2 week period. All their pipes needed to be ripped out. Since they were behind drywall, it was an expensive proposition.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
BigDaddyI also had a house built in the 80's with thinner than normal copper piping. Before I sold my house, 5 houses in my block developed pinhole leaks in the pipes in a 2 week period.
My house was built in 1989, I bought it in 1999. It was built with thin copper pipes, and they developed two pinhole leaks within a couple of weeks in 2001. It was a disaster to replace all the pipe.
Track fiddler Lunch time! I just finished popcorning my ceiling repairs in the hall. I used accelerator in the texture so I can paint them this afternoon. All this talk of 45's is starting to make me feel a little dizzy. Maybe I'll have an aspirin around noon A 45 in the corner so it's stronger and the framing doesn't rack. You mean like this? I put one in each corner. Each of those 45's have a rabbet on each end of the 45's to make it a little stronger. And the whole table top only wieghs just over 21 lbs It's snowing here. Hot roast beef on French bread and swiss melts it is TF
The table top is what really keeps the open grid from racking. Keep the grid square and plum before you attach a few finish nails to hold it in place, then screw away.
Any open grid that has screws installed into the ends of 1x stock is inherently prone to racking anyway.
But yes, triangle gussets help keep a joint square. A 45 cut board works the same way.
Of course, if the walls that form the corner you're installing your layout isn't perfectly 90 degrees, building a perfect open grid structure isn't going to fit snuggly anyway.
Can use shims.
Doughless Of course, if the walls that form the corner you're installing your layout isn't perfectly 90 degrees, building a perfect open grid structure isn't going to fit snuggly anyway.
Good morning
There's so many different variations of shimming Douglas. I used to buy the wood ones when they were $0.79 a pack but refuse to pay over $2.00 these days for a product that's worth a nickel. I shouldn't care as the customer pays for them anyway but it's just the principle of the thing. I keep a knotless 2x4 in the truck and cut my own when I need them.
My favorite shim is cardboard shim. This product really helps when you're doing a drywall repair, especially by a mud joint where the drywall is thicker. When you take the extra time to put the cardboard shim on the cripple backers, the sheetrock comes out nice and flush so you don't have to ding around with multiple coats of mud. It saves you way more time in the end.
My favorite shim trick an old carpenter taught me about 20 years ago. When you're installing base trim around the room, the drywall mud never goes all the way down to the floor. So the base trim is never plumb in the corner. I used to take the extra time to cope my second piece of trim at an angle so the joint was tight. Many trips back to the saw and re-coping. Very time-consuming.
This old carpenter taught me his trick that I really appreciated. You take a roofing nail and hammer it in the wall sill plate about 3/4" away from the corner low to the floor leaving the head of the nail out a 1/4". You install your first piece of base in the corner over the nail. Then when you form the inside corner joint with the second coped piece of base against the first one, you tap with your hammer where the nail is behind the first piece of base until the joint is tight. This little trick made me the fastest base installer in the west and I thanked that old carpenter with a firm handshake.
I very seldom use a tape measure when installing trim. Only on a short piece that runs in-between walls in closets. When trimming, I hold the piece of trim in place up to the prior piece installed and mark the joint to be cut with a sharp utility knife. Same with casing. No mistakes made that way and your joint is always tight the first time
I see you pointed out the thin copper pipe Henry and Kevin. Yep, That red label pipe is junk. I'm not quite sure how much thicker the blue label stuff is but it costs almost twice as much so I'm thinking it must be almost twice as thick.
I love the cheap pipe. Job security! That cheap stuff is failing all over my building so I'm always getting these little ceiling repair jobs.
I actually enjoy doing drywall repair jobs. They're kind of an artsy-fartsy fun thing
The 3-inch pipe is the boiler recirculatory. Water is continuously running through that pipe slowly so we always have hot water.
You are so right about needing shims Douglas. Nothing in buildings is true. See the cardboard shims on the cripples. Cardboard shims are my favorite.
A rabbet notch in the surrounding drywall so the mesh is recessed helps so you dont have a hump on your finished plaster.
I like the light weight baby blue topping to iron out the imperfections on the perimeter
I don't like the big mess of a poly tent and sprayer so I apply the texture with a paintbrush, stabs and dabs. Needs a shot of Kilz so nothing bleeds later.
Dang TF, that is the best job I have ever seen patching and matching acoustic popcorn ceiling texture!
Thanks Kevin. Years ago in my younger days they didn't turn out as well I can tell you.
Good job on the ceiling repair TF. I had to do a couple myself and used the canned stuff. One was in the office and the other was when I took out the four, four-foot fluorescent lights that were around the skylight and put in pot lights and two UFO lights.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Brent, that kitchen of yours is to die for. Outstanding in all respects. I dare not show that photo to my wife.
Thanks, Rich, it all happened because of a leaky dishwasher. The company that did the work was just back to check on things as they are going to stage it and use it for all their promotional material. The wife is a happy camper.
The insurance company paid for the floor in the kitchen and we got enough extra tile to do the front hall, laundry room, powder room and office. I had to tear up all the old tile and hardwood in those rooms and lay a new subfloor, that was a lot of work.
The kitchen looks beautiful Brent. I've always been a big fan of can lighting. The stainless and dark tile looks great with all the white in the rest of the kitchen. Just a guess but does that happen to be Corian or Silestone countertops? They look nice, just curious.
For you guys with the copper pipes.
In general housing. A least around here.
''K'' soft copper is for under ground. Like a water service. Thick wall. No, I do not know the wall thickness anymore.
''L'' hard or soft, Blue ink is for inside, general use. Still in houses since installed in the '50's.
''M'' hard, Red ink is for heating. Thin wall. Cheap.
Around here, Pennsylvania, if your copper pipe gets pinholes, it's the water eating through or the Flux not being washed out of the cold lines. The Flux, it will stay stuck, inside the pipe on the bottom and eat though. It takes many years to eat through.