Glad I could be of service, Dave!
Yes, I did tint the plaster, using tempera paint pigments. I did that before and it worked fine. I didn't try spreading the plaster on latex paint, though.
Yeah, I'll start a separate thread.
Scott, wetting the paint is something I was thinking might help. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll do that next time for sure.
On a happier note, the reballasting of Casper yard seems to be going well. I've applied new ballast in the section I honked-up way back when, and it's looking much better. It's not glued down yet, but right now it's looking pretty okay, I think. Tomorrow I'll glue it down, and then we'll know for sure.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
I just posted my latest update video:
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
I'm with Bear, Mark. I appreciate your openness. I will face the same issue about how to add a bit of texture to pink foam so I'm certainly glad to learn what works and what doesn't work.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I watched the entire video, paying close attention to the failed road aspect of the project.
It seems to me that plaster of paris is not the answer. If Hydrocal were available, I would use that. Otherwise, I would go with pre-mixed joint compound.
If adherence to the smooth pink foam doesn't work, and if roughing up the pink foam doesn't work, I wonder if a layer of screening nailed over the pink foam would provide better adherence when the plaster is applied. The screening would act like rebar when pouring concrete. Just a thought.
Rich
Alton Junction
Thanks for the kind words, Bear and Dave (I hope I don't have too many "opportunities" to show you what doesn't work!).
Rich, I'm thinking you meant the failed plaster aspect. Otherwise, I guess I know what you think of the road!
Anyway, about that plaster faux pas...
11 April 2021
I stripped the entire area back down to bare styrofoam (I mentioned that in my "Plaster Disaster" thread), and started over.
I roughed up the surface of all the styrofoam, then used paper drywall tape to cover the gaps between subroadbed and styrofoam.Then I applied plaster again over most of the area. It worked great! It's well stuck down to everything (except the masking tape over the track, I hope!).
I sanded it lightly to remove sharp little peaks, and had this:
So today I applied some of my tempera / plaster dirt mix in the back corner. It needs a second layer, and in this picture it's still wet, but scenery is once again progressing (I was beginning to wonder if it ever would)!
On April 1st I also got a Topside Creeper (no, really!). After assembly, I posed it over Casper yard (with me on top, hamming it up for my wife - sorry):
Having this thing will allow me to postition Casper permanently back in the corner right after I get the backdrop finished. That, in turn, will allow me to extend the mainline both directions out of Casper much sooner than I would have otherwise, since I can easily do scenery work from the creeper.
Hi Mark,
I'm glad that you have finally solved the problems with the plaster. I have learned a lot from your experiences. I'm sure that others have too.
I am curious to find out how long you can actually lean on the Topside Creeper before it starts to get uncomfortable. Before I came up with the concept of having my layout rotate I had seriously considered using a Topside Creeper to solve the reach in challenges with my layout. I can't remember exactly how I tested the concept, but I do remember finding that leaning on my chest was extremely uncomfortable. Both my chest and my back protested loudly! Given all the back problems and other issues that I have suffered, I wasn't surprised that the creeper concept was uncomfortable. I dearly hope that it works for you!
Cheers!!
Pruitt Rich, I'm thinking you meant the failed plaster aspect. Otherwise, I guess I know what you think of the road!
Glad to learn that you got that plaster to work.
Pruitt
Which is it?
richhotrainMark, I am having a difficult time determining whether that is your normal relaxation position or your lean-to position when working over the layout. Rich
hon30critterI am curious to find out how long you can actually lean on the Topside Creeper before it starts to get uncomfortable. Dave
20 April 2021
I spent this past weekend at the North Platte Nebraska train show with a few members of the Central Wyoming Model Railroad Association (the Casper Train Club). I made several hundred dollars selling stuff I bought years ago and now won't ever use, then spent most of it on a new locomotive - a BLI Consolidation in Chicago and North Western livery.
Meanwhile, I've resumed ballasting Casper yard, finishing up the second section today. The ballast is still wet on the inside tracks.
I did the track with the turnout before I went to North Platte, and I'm pleased to be able to report, with the ballast fully dried, it still works! Will wonders never cease!
I've also continued to add dirt in the area east of Hudson, but I don't have a shot of that. Maybe in a few days.
Pruittthen spent most of it on a new locomotive - a BLI Consolidation in Chicago and North Western livery.
That is a nice locomotive!
Thanks, Dave! After it's been run in a bit I'll ask a guy at the club to weather it for me (I'm a bit reluctant to tackle that myself).
27 April 2021
I've been working on completing scenery into the corner on the CNW line over Casper. Track has been ballasted almost to Hudson, and I'm ready to remove the wax paper over the backdrop and begin the final detailed scenery.
This month I've also been building Rocky Mountain Drilling. I'm about half done, I think. Here I've installed half the tarpaper roof.
This is a very old Model Hobbies HO Feed Mill kit.
30 April 2021
I've continued to work on Rocky Mountain Drilling. Here I've set in place temporarily on the layout.
I still have to add tar to the roof, add the chimney and the loading platforms. I also need to complete the weathering, of course.
Nathan, our local club president, weathered this switcher for me. It came out good! He'll be getting more of my locos to do.
Yes, that is very realistic, Mark. Nice job. I have thought, once or twice, of very carefully painting over the weathering with some gloss medium to simulate water overflow here and there on both the tender deck and sides, and of course on places on the steamer. This would require some thought, a careful touch, maybe micro-brushes, and possibly the Mod Podge should be very slightly thinned...I'd have to do a trial. But, with the fine weathering and some water evaporating still visible on parts of this fine locomotive model, you'd have something truly spectacular.
Well down the road, of course. You have miles to go before you begin to think of projects like these.
Still watching...
Is Rocky Mountain Drilling a kit or scratchbuilt?Great weathering on the locomotive - any tips on how he does it?Thanks!
Mark,
I will also be curious to see how you like the BLI Consolidation. Been thinking about getting one in CNW livery also.
Scott
Thanks guys! I'll pass the compliments on the loco on to the guy who did the work.
Selector, the gloss medium is a great idea! I may try a bit of it on the tender to start with.
ChrisVA, Rocky Mountain Drilling is a very old Model Hobbies kit - their HO Feed Mill. It's pretty basic, but I'm adding an interior floor (because I'm leaving one set of warehouse doors open), probably an interior partition or two, and adding lighting to the structure.
As far as tips on the weathering job goes, all I really know is that he uses an airbrush, and he hates steam locomotives! He's a dyed-in-the-wool diesel fan. But he sure does a great job on the steamers! And he doesn't charge an arm and a leg - he enjoys doing them, so he works for the cost of materials for club members. He's about to get whole pile of locomotives to do !
Scott, I'll let you know what I think of it, but it will be awhile. Right now it has almost no place to go except back and forth in the yard or on the CNW track above the yard.
I just posted my latest layout update video...
Great progress Mark.
Your friend did a magnificent job of weathering the steamer!
Thanks Dave!
8 May 2021
Ballasting is proceeding in Casper yard. First I taped over the tracks
Then I applied plaster and dirt over the cork underlayment
Then I pulled the tape up. It left an impressive looking debris field!
Ten minutes with a vacuum cleaner took care of that, and tracks are ready for ballast!
Ballasting started yesterday afternoon. By this evening, I should have most of the ballast in place on the classification tracks. Then a day or so to glue it all in place and I'll be ready to move into the yard ladder.
22 May 2021
Finally, after nearly three months, the Planning episodes of my YouTube series "Building Casper" is nearly done. Part one is "in the can" and has been posted on my YouTube channel. Parts two is nearly finished, and will be published in two days. Two days after that, part three (the last part) will be published.
That was really well done! Your points were well explained.
I was pleased to learn that I have managed to get all of the features into my own yard and engine facility that you mentioned, although each of them is considerably smaller than what you have been able to achieve. I will only be handling one or two cars at a time, but that's what I came up with in a 5'4" x 12' layout with continuous running.
I don't have a roundhouse, just a two track engine shed, but all of the other engine service bits are there, plus a car shop/paint shop as well.
Eventually there will be a separate much larger visible staging yard off to the side of the layout. It will have some scenery on so it won't be too boring.
Keep up the good work!!
Thanks for the kind words, Dave! A good yard doesn't have to be big, it just needs to support the layout and the operating scheme that's used on it.
A car and paint shop are an element I never even thought about. That will make for some interesting switching moves, and also gives a reason for some rolling stock to have that "fresh out of the box" appearance!
24 May 2021
As promised, Episode 3, Planning Part 2, is now up on YouTube:
Watching the Casper scene evolve was very interesting. You have put into words the process that I think many of us have gone through as we developed our layout plans.
I don't think that I have enough prototypical knowledge to critique the last version. Nothing stands out as being a fatal flaw. It all sounds good to me.
Thanks Dave.
Whoever said you need any knowledge to critique something? Lots of people (many of whom will critique anything or anyone!) sure don't think so!
26 May 2021
The conclusion of the Planning series for Building Casper is now posted on YouTube:
These three videos were a lot of work. I spent well over 60 hours producing them, especially the animations (crude as some of them are).
Maybe I can get back to working on the layout now.
Another great video Mark!
Lot's of people will learn an enormous amount from your videos!
Thanks for the encouragement, Dave!
30 May 2021
During the odd moments between editing videos this past month, I've been ballasting Casper yard, beginning with the east end - the classification yard and icing tracks, mostly. As of a couple days ago I was finishing up the mainline in this area.
Quite a stark difference between the mainline and the yard tracks. The mainline will be toned down some once the ballast has been weathered. The yard tracks won't tone down much, but weathering should kind of tie them all together.
That is some ballasting, Mark. It looks really good. Well done.
David
To the world you are someone. To someone you are the world
I cannot afford the luxury of a negative thought
Does it replace white glue or merely add to it?
Thanks David
Rich, the yogurt acts as a binder for the ballast. I use the blueberry flavor because it adds some realistic texture to the ballast.