carl425Have you tried 8 1/2 x 14 paper?
.
Printing directly from Power Point is weird on odd sized paper.
On the real layout it will easy just to keep the openings no more than 10 inches wide.
If I do need a wider panel I will need to figue out how to use ledger or legal sized paper.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190I need to make my maximum panel width 10 inches, not 11. There is no way to get Power Point to print all the way to the edge on 8 1/2 by 11 paper.
Have you tried 8 1/2 x 14 paper?
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
Day 19, Post 1:
I started today by test fitting the new control panel inserts into the layout front fascia panel.
The smaller one is perfect. It printed from Microsoft Power Point just fine.
I learned another lesson (I forgot how much I have learned already) on the larger panel. I need to make my maximum panel width 10 inches, not 11. There is no way to get Power Point to print all the way to the edge on 8 1/2 by 11 paper. I had to make a JPG of the panel image, make it a full page photo, and print it with Microsoft Photo Editor with no margins. It does not look anywhere near as good as the smaller one.
This is why we sould always experiment with a new design.
I am going to run to Home Depot to find something to use as a backing panel for these. On the real layout I will use sheet aluminum, I have used it before with perfect results, but for this temporary layout experiment I want something less expensive and easier to work with.
I am relatively new here (at least posting anyways, I've lurked for awhile) and just wanted to say this is an excellent thread. I am not at the building stage, just dreaming, but threads like this, I can learn so much from. Watching you correct an issue like you just did above is valuable and makes this whole building thing seem less intimidating. Thanks!
Ooops!
Glad you found an easy fix.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Day 18, Post 3:
Ran into a big problem. I accidentally mounted all the risers on the lower level 1/2 inch too high. I checked clearance under the girder bridge with a mock up, and I think I am OK, but it is closer than I wanted.
But, I have a problem in the tunnel where the two track cross. And... this would have been a problem even without the 1/2" mistake... I am really doing bad today. I forgot about the 3/4" of Homasote and roadbed when I checked it before.
A trip to the big box Home Depot and I found this large steel splice plate. I think it is the answer to the problem.
I bent the outside 1/2" up at a right angle for strength. This is now one tough bridge plate.
I need to make another riser now because I will need to slice out the plywood for clearance. I had to get a little creative to make it work where it needed to go into.
I mounted it, and it fit and worked!
I cut out the plywood and homasote over the lower track. Then I removed some of the homasote with a coarse rasp to even out the surface with the bridge plate.
Six screws will hold the bridge plate in place.
The clearance underneath is now good, but I still wish I had that extra half of an inch.
And I verified that the cork roadbed will be smooth without any wierd vertical transitions on the bridge plate... All OK!
Crisis averted. I hope I have no more problems tomorrow.
That is impressive, I did not know they had upgraded them. Good to know.
Sheldon
Day 18, Post 2:
Well, I had quite a surprise just now. I opened the Atlast Deck Girder and Atlas Girder bridge kits that I ordered from MB Klein.
The last time I used an Ho scale Altas 9 inch bridge I was probably in middle School. I remember them being simple solid bottom bridges with snap-track on the decks. That is what I was expecting.
These bridges are pretty darned nice! So much better than I expected. These have nice open decks, real bridge ties, guard rails, and really impressive detail for less than $10.00 each!
I will certaiinly be using these on the real layout!
mbinsewiSo, those are the knive type blades that Dave talked about? No teeth, just a knive blade? I remember using a circular saw when I cut mine, back in th 90's, outside of course, and the "fluffy" saw mess it made.
A friend of mine has a knife like blade for his circular saw. He used it to cut rubber stall mats. It would probably work on Homasote as well.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
SeeYou190I was never able to find the blades Dave described.
I'll grab the model # off the blades at the club and post it.
ATLANTIC CENTRALI dare not post in the recent "Present your Treasures" thread........
I was going to post a pic of the wife and kids but thought better of it.
A Russian find a wife/ date a girl website posted a photo of an acquaintance's 17-year-old Daughter on their meet a girl from Russia site. It was just a photo that had been put on Facebook about a year ago. These guys mined it for their sleazy website.
Enjoying the thread Kevin.
SeeYou190 GAK! The thread got moved. . After three weeks... dang. . I hope the people following it, and judging by the image hits on Imgur, there were a lot of them, can still find it. . -Kevin .
GAK! The thread got moved.
After three weeks... dang.
I hope the people following it, and judging by the image hits on Imgur, there were a lot of them, can still find it.
What's not to find, it is still on my active discussion list?
Yes, those who have not posted will have a harder time......
Seems the moderators have been busy with all sorts of stuff recently, I guess being a high roller failed the politically correct test, so I dare not post in the recent "Present your Treasures" thread........
Well,
I stopped using cork about 35 years ago in favor of homasote.
Like this guy sells:
https://cascaderailsupply.com/
To get the extra height like you are doing, I use 3/8" plywood, like this:
I shoot the plywood and roadbed down with a little glue and a brad nailer, and I glue the track down with adheasive caulk.
With another 1,000 feet of track to install soon, I'm not predrilling any spike holes....
Yep, your right, I had to scroll back. Nice smooth cut, anyway.
Mike.
My You Tube
mbinsewiSo, those are the knive type blades that Dave talked about? No teeth, just a knive blade?
Actually it was Henry "Big Daddy" that suggested the knife blade.
I was never able to find the blades Dave described.
SeeYou190Wow, these blades are amazing and perfect for cutting the homasote! Thanks for the advice. They were absolutely worth finding. There was no mess at all.
So, those are the knive type blades that Dave talked about? No teeth, just a knive blade?
I remember using a circular saw when I cut mine, back in th 90's, outside of course, and the "fluffy" saw mess it made. At first I thought, cool, I can use this as foliage material! I tried to dye it, but the resin, or whatever they use in the process of making Homosote, wouldn't allow the fibers too accept any die, so that experiment ended in the trash.
Day 18, Post 1:
I am going to post day count only counting working days on this project, so this is day 18 instead of day 23. I spent 5 days in my "dorm room" in Tampa.
I am starting today with an experiment with homasote, which a new material for me.
These are the pieces to my trackwork sandwich, base, homasote, cork roadbed, and track.
I found these three packs of knife blades for my jig saw on a popular auction web site. These are most certainly "New Old Stock" items. I wonder how long these have been laying around.
Wow, these blades are amazing and perfect for cutting the homasote! Thanks for the advice. They were absolutely worth finding. There was no mess at all.
I am not sure if my spikes are long enough. They are 3/8" long, but once going through the tie and the cork, there is not much left in the homasote.
I drilled #66 holes in the ties, and drove in the spikes with a pair of needle nose pliers. This is a picture of me driving my first spike EVER into homasote!
This experiement went well. Now onto some real construction.
My package from Model Train Stuff arrived today.
I will be back to work on this project this weekend!
All systems go... full steam ahead. I am quite excited.
Day 17, Post 2:
Well, I did manage to get all the required train car painting done today to clear the workbench for the power tools.
This is not what I wanted to do today, I wanted to lay trackwork, but you just can't work without supplies.
I am spending the next week in my "dorm room", so no progress will take place on this project for five days. So sad. Vacation is over and I need to get back to work.
My wife snuck up on me and took this awful candid picture today. I certainly am not a photogenic sort.
Day 17, Post 1:
On Monday 31/DEC/2018 I went to two local hobby shops looking for Midwest Cork and a Tortoise switch machine. Both did not have them in stock.
On the good side, both of these stores, Metro Trains in Fort Myers, and Gulf Coast Model Railroading in Sarasota reported that they had great Christmas seasons, and even sold tons of products after Christmas. That is why they were out of stock.
On Monday I ordered the needed items from Model Train Stuff.
The package has not arrived yet, I was expecting it yesterday. This changes the plans a little bit, because I was intending to play with Homasote and cork roadbed today.
I will see what I can get done... changing plans... moving forward.
Day 16, Post 1:
Did not do anything on this project today.
Took down the Christmas tree and all decorations. Put all the holiday stuff away in storage, and out of the garage. Brought the treadmill back inside. Then I cleaned out my garage.
Now I have a place to work on this experimentation project properly.
Work will resume tomorrow. I intened to paint all those train cars tomorrow so I can have the sawhorses and table top for power tools.
We will see how that goes.
carl425The big edvantage IMO is the washer head screws let you screw a piece down tighter where the wedge head of a regular screw would cause a split.
That is the exact feature that sold me on the product.
I probably wont use the angle jig near as much as just for straight joints. The countersunk washer screw looks like a huge mechanical improvement.
SeeYou190Funny you should say that... I just bought one of these pocket screw jigs last weekend. . I have not tried it out yet, but I sure liked it when I saw it.
I love mine. I've worn out the first bit and am on my second. I primarily use them to attach the cross members of my grid to the band that's attached to the wall.
The big edvantage IMO is the washer head screws let you screw a piece down tighter where the wedge head of a regular screw would cause a split.
I do wish I could find screws longer than 2 1/2" though.
rrinkerothers extolling the virtues of the Kreg pocket jigs.
Funny you should say that... I just bought one of these pocket screw jigs last weekend.
I have not tried it out yet, but I sure liked it when I saw it.
I think that's what we are sayng - you have the double cleats, and the roadbed is securely screwed to the cleats/riser on both sides of the joint, rendering the added biscuit pretty much just useless extra work. I know it's always fun to play with tools...
I've seen some examples of building the framing with biscuit joints, edge to face. ANd others extolling the virtues of the Kreg pocket jigs. But they both seem like a lot more work than a plain old fashioned butt joint and some screws (maybe glue too, if you never want it to come apart). And maybe a nailing block in the corner if using materials that don't take fasteners into the end grain very well. All of that foundation work will be hidden behind fascia and under scenery - strong is good, extra care to make it pretty is not really needed. Building cabinets is a completely different story.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Day 15, Post 2:
I have completed both of the small control panel inserts. The graphics look pretty good to me. Tomorrow I will try to find a suitable and easy way to secure these into the fascia boards.
I think I am going to experiment with plexiglass for the backer panel for strength.
The image can be clicked on for a larger view.
carl425In traditional construction...
Traditional? Bah!
This is the STRATTON AND GILLETTE RAILROAD!
I do not want splice plates, I will design and build the subroadbed so all plywood butt joints will occur at the risers, and the risers at these joints will have double cleats.
SeeYou190If you look at my drawing, there is also a riser and two 2 by 2 cleats at the splice, much more than just a splice plate.
In traditional construction, the splice plate would replace only the biscuit. You would still have risers and cleats.
carl425a splice plate provides a stronger result.
If you look at my drawing, there is also a riser and two 2 by 2 cleats at the splice, much more than just a splice plate. I would never use a biscuit joint unsupported.
Mine are super-supported!
The biscuits essentially double the amount of surface area at the butt joint face, and when those slots are filled with wood glue and dried... oh boy... that is one secure, strong, and permanent joint.