Day 5, Post 1:
.
Merry Christmas!
Not much time to work on the project today. I just glued the two sections of 1 by 4 together to form the fascia front.
More will happen tomorrow.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Day 6, Post 1:
Oh dear! My decision top not use premium lumber on this project is biting me. I laid out the pieces, and everything is warping terribly.
My plan is to cut an opening in the fascia section for the Troller power pack that I plan to use.
I hope some stuff straightens out with a little bit of work. This might be a disaster.
SeeYou190I laid out the pieces, and everything is warping terribly.
Should have come to my local Home Depot, they sell it pre warped.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Mr. "eh" Wayne. Your fascia's all look like raw masonite. I complimentory fascia color would do wonders for the layout based on how Rob Spangler did his fascia.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
SeeYou190 Oh dear! My decision top not use premium lumber on this project is biting me. I laid out the pieces, and everything is warping terribly. My plan is to cut an opening in the fascia section for the Troller power pack that I plan to use.
I didn't go with premium lumber at Home Depot on my last layout because I was on a tight budget, but what I did buy didn't seem to get any worse after I got home and used it. A lot of the in-store dimensional lumber at HD was pre-warped, as someone else commented, but I just picked through it for straight pieces and it seemed to stay that way. I wasn't in Florida so not sure if that is part of it.
Someone has suggested sealing the lumber with something like clear Olymic.
Speaking of Troller, many moons ago I had a dual Troller power pack but I haven't had it for many many many moons. I replaced it with a Star Tec Hogger, which is a DC power pack with a plug-in throttle on a coiled tether. I used it for testing on my last layout although I do have a Digitrax Radio Chief DCC system I plan to use unless I replace it with something else.
Troller packs always looked neat - then they kind of disappeared. Something to do with faking UL certifications I think.
I got my saw and rip guide, now I just have to find a source of GOOD 3/4 ply to make my dimensional lumber from.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinkerTroller packs always looked neat - then they kind of disappeared. Something to do with faking UL certifications I think.
I have always had excelent performace with Troller Packs. I bought their near-top-of-the-line "Twin Momentum 5" when I was in High School for me N scale layout. I found out I hate momentum, but the Troller control, and 2.5 amps per throttle were great. The Troller always had excellent slow speed starts.
Day 6, post 2:
I guess there will ocassionally be a day where everything goes wrong.
The first project for today was to make a jig to cut out the 7 inch by 6 inch opening for the Troller power pack.
I used a router with a 5/8 bit to cut the relief at 3/8" depth. Then I switched to a 1/4" bit and cut the opening out. I went back to the 5/8" bit and routed out the corners. I went throught the edge at one point. I also found out I cut the 5/8" part to a depth of more than 1/2", oops.
It looked better from the front.
Well, the opening that I cut is too big. I thought something was wrong because I calculated that the wood would be thicker at the edge than it was. I need to figure out where I went wrong with the math.
Then... the whole thing broke at the weak spot where that knot is in the thin edge below the power pack.
Tomorrow I am going to make a trip to Home Depot and get better lumber options and rebuild the front of this segment.
There was no forward progress today.
If you are trying to get as flush a fit as possible, I'd simply cut the opening to the accurate measurements of the pack, and construct a holder of sorts to bolt on the back to hold it. 4 verticals - two on top and 2 on the bottom, and then a pair of crosses across the back of the back that bolt on so you can remove the pack.
On this whole question of quality lumber, I would simply use Poplar.
It is our prefered lumber for custome door jambs, built-ins, larger traditional baseboards, etc.
And it is what I will be using for most of my benchwork along with birch plywood.
Sheldon
Poplar absolutely is my first choice, but for right now, in my area no home improvement stores are carrying it.
Home Depot used to stock clear fir, oak, and poplar. They also had furniture grade birch plywood.
None of that is available now.
I could probably find poplar locally at another source, but I am on a limited time frame, and this is an experiment anyway.
I will see what I can find tomorrow.
SeeYou190 Poplar absolutely is my first choice, but for right now, in my area no home improvement stores are carrying it. . Home Depot used to stock clear fir, oak, and poplar. They also had furniture grade birch plywood. . None of that is available now. . I could probably find poplar locally at another source, but I am on a limited time frame, and this is an experiment anyway. . I will see what I can find tomorrow. . -Kevin .
Interesting, Home Depot and Lowes around here have plenty of Poplar, Oak, Birch plywood, Oak veneer plywood, homasote sheets, etc.
All of our "real lumber yards" have these products too.
Day 7, Post 1:
Went to the Home Depot this morning and looked at the "premium" selection of lumber they have. It is all options for "trim boards", nothing hardwood, fir, or anything furniture grade.
It looks like the best option for wood is this "Selex" product that is kiln dried, clear, planed, and primed. I am buiding a new L grider for the front with this product.
For the Fascia panel that will go on top of the L girder I decided to try a different product. They have boards made from PVC that supposedly will never warp or rot. This sounds like a good idea.
We will need to see how this works out.
The product says if you can work with wood you can work with PVC boards. Well, my skills with wood are questionable, so lets see how badly I can mess this up...
I will keep you posted.
Day 7, Post 2:
The new L girder is ready to install. It looks so much better than the original one that warped all over the place.
I wonder if doing this project ouside added to the complications with the wood I chose the first time.
Cellular PVC lumber has no structural value, it will sag, bent, move in every direction.
We use it for most all exterior trim now, but it is always backed up with framing lumber.
ATLANTIC CENTRALCellular PVC lumber has no structural value, it will sag, bent, move in every direction. We use it for most all exterior trim now, but it is always backed up with framing lumber.
I am aware of this, so I am only using it for the fascia board. The new L girder is made of clear kiln dried pine.
The PVC product seems very promising for what I want to do with my fascia panel. It had thickness for recessed control panels, and has a real durability factor in its favor.
I am excited about it.
Day 7, Post 3:
I went to the website for the manufacturer of the PVC lumber. They reccomend using PVC solvent to glue the boards to one another. I went to Home Depot and asked for "PVC Solvent Glue" and was told the only thing they had was for PVC pipe in the plumbing section, so I guess that is what I am going to use.
I glued the PVC 1 by 4 to the PVC 1 by 6, and clamped the whole thing, and set it aside to cure together. I staggered the joints because that is most likeluy how it will be on the actual layout.
I also figured out my math mistake for the template to router the opening for the Troller Transmp 2.5 power pack, and set out to fabricate a new one.
This one is also made of much better quality wood.
This was a much better day. I feel like I actually got some stuff done... AND... I finished a freight car to post in Weekend Photo Fun tomorrow!
Day 7, Post 4:
I have the guide plate for the new router templates completed. I sure hope my math is correct this time.
I am sure there is an easy formula for cutting a 6 inch by 7 inch hole with a 5/8" straight bit, and 6 inch diameter router base, but I made this a lot more difficult than it needed to be.
We will find out tomorrow if I am right.
My confidence is about an 8 out of 10 on this attempt.
Yes, the plumbing glue is the right glue - PVC is PVC.......
I hate to tell you now, but they also sell that stuff in 4x8 sheets.......
I'll have to drive my truck down your way Sheldon and pick up plywood, the HD and Lowes by me sure do have birch and oak and other plywoods, but ALL of them are 5 plys of the same garbage that is their ragular AC plywood, with a very thing veneer layour of birch or oak, etc. Unless that's what you mean - it just looks good on the face. The good stuff is 13 birch plies, or maybe it's 11 halfway decent plies with a birch veneer. Either way, the more plies, the better, at least if trying to use it as a replacement for dimensional lumber. As a cabinet face, I guess it doesn't make a whole lot of difference as long as the finished side that shows is really nice.
ATLANTIC CENTRALYes, the plumbing glue is the right glue - PVC is PVC.
That is very good to hear! I am glad I got the right advice from Home Depot. I think the website should have made that clear.
ATLANTIC CENTRALI hate to tell you now, but they also sell that stuff in 4x8 sheets.
For this small project I would not have wanted a big sheet, but this is good information for the layout build.
Thank you.
Day 8, Post 1:
FINALLY SOME SUCCESS! And it is very good success. I feel that the PVC will be a perfect solution for the fascia boards.
I started with the Router Guide I made last night. It fit perfectly!
The inner template that is sized for the Troller Transamp 2.5 was installed in the guide, and I am ready for an attempt.
The handiness of having outlets on the layout legs is made evident in this picture.
BE SAFE!
I cannot stress this enough. The PVC will make all kinds of dust when it is routed out. WEAR A DUST MASK! These are inexpensive and will surely make your life better.
I started by cutting across the template in both directions and measured the cut. It is perfect! 6 1/8" by 7 1/8" just like I planned.
The finished hole has a nice look to it. The PVC board sure finished up quite nicely.
The Troller power pack fits perfectly in it new home.
I love it when a plan comes together. Now I need to cut two more holes for the control panels and trim the profile.
Back to work.
Day 8, Post 2:
More success and a very good day. I continued the day by cutting two more openings into the fascia panel for the control panels.
The first one is 5 1/2" by 4 1/2". I made the smaller size by adding two pieces of 1 by 2 to the inside of the power pack cutting template.
The second control panel opening will be 10 1/2" by 4 1/2". I made a template for a 10 1/2" by 6" hole, and made it smaller using a single 1 by 2 spacer.
You can see in this image the mess made by the process of using the router to cut the control panel opening.
Wear the dust mask, and clean the mess with a shop vacuum. If that PVC mess gets in your yard it will probably be there forever. This is a job for a non-windy day for sure.
I drew the profile for the fascia board and cut it out with a jig saw. I used a blade marked "smooth wood" for the cut. It is a pretty coarse toothed blade. I think a fine tooth blade would generate too much heat and melt the PVC.
I chose to use epoxy to join the PVC fascia panel to the wooden L girder. I mixed it up and brushed it onto the joint.
Then assembly and a few cl;amps to hold it all securely while the epoxy cures. The fascia looks great sitting on top of the wooden L girder.
Just for a little added security, it never hurts to add a few steel braces to hold eveything together.
Day 9, post 1:
I fabricated the brackets to hold the Troller power pack to the fascia frame. The troller has a face angle of 15 degrees, so I cut the blocks to match. I then installed an hanger bolt for the retaining brace.
I fastened these to the fascia with two #10 wood screws in each one.
A strap of steel, wing nuts, and fender washers do a great job holding the power pack securely in position. This set up makes it very easy to replace the pack from underneath if necessary.
The pack has a nice flush mount finished appearance from the front.
On the real layout is will look even better. I still need to work on my skills with the router, but it is all progressing quite well.
When I build the real fascia I need to set the depth of the biscuit cutter more shallow so I do not hit the biscuits when I router out the openings.
As Maria Von Trapp said "I have confidence in me". (for all us musical theater geeks, I know she was not Maria Von Trapp yet when she sang that song, but I cannot recall her maiden name, sorry.)
Kevin,
I now have a much better idea of what you were shooting for and I am impressed! Some may say that you are over-building your fascia and framework but I think that your results justify your efforts. Besides, the main point in the hobby is to enjoy what you are doing! I get the sense that you are.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
hon30critter I am impressed!
Thank you Dave! I am doing my best with this one.
Tomorrow I am going to build a fake "wall" to be the backdrop.
I went to Home Depot and bought 2 by 4 by 8 foot studs, but they are not quite 8 feet long.
How come studs are short?
SeeYou190How come studs are short?
Maybe you got "Precuts" they are already sized 92-5/8 for the top plate and sole plate so the framers can slam them together quickly. Or somebody tossed the precuts into the wrong bin at the lumber yard and you picked them up by mistake?
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2002/09/01/do-precut-studs-make-sense
Good Luck, Ed
gmpullmanMaybe you got "Precuts" they are already sized 92-5/8 for the top plate and sole plate so the framers can slam them together quickly.
That must be what it is. I never heard of this, but for framing it sure sounds like a time saver.
I will need to look more carefully.
Thanks.
SeeYou190 hon30critter I am impressed! . Thank you Dave! I am doing my best with this one. . Tomorrow I am going to build a fake "wall" to be the backdrop. . I went to Home Depot and bought 2 by 4 by 8 foot studs, but they are not quite 8 feet long. . . How come studs are short? . -Kevin .
The top and bottom plate on a built wall add up to 3 inches for a total of 8 ft
Track fiddlerThe top and bottom plate on a built wall add up to 3 inches for a total of 8 ft
I am amazed that I can still learn so much new stuff doing something I have done several times before.
There is so much to learn about everything. I really appreciate everyone sharing and helping me out.
When I joined these forums two years ago I really thought of myself as a model railroad expert. It only took a few days to realize that is not the case.
It is very rare when I have the answer to someone's question. I'll bet I get ten answers to every answer I give.