Heavy Feather here are some other takes on the Heritage Furniture building
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/202923.aspx
Eastrail11I meant removing the pieces from their holding things, what every they are called,
They are called sprues, rhymes with glues and there are sprue cutting tools which are useful for cutting free really tiny bits. I use and xacto knife. Do not bend the parts back and forth to break them free, it sometimes leaves small chunks of the piece on the sprue.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Here is a walthers kit I recently did. I washed the parts in soapy water. Primed with my airbrush. Glued it together and then applied pan pastels.
On the smaller details or trim I use a paint brush. If I try to paint large areas with a brush I always end up leaving brush marks so I perfer to use spray paint. My new favorite color is an off white color called Modern White made by Krylon. I use the flat matte finish, not the gloss. You can find it at Hobby Lobby. I try to paint the parts before I assemble it to make it easier.
Stealing some knowladge from my wargaming hobby, while pricey I have been known to use The Army Painter brand primer, it comes in a variety of colors and can really speed up your paint time if you are doing more or less one color with some details and highlights, if your new and dont have an airbrush yet, I highly recomend chalks and washes for weathering.-Tom
This is a large building with flat smooth walls. I would look at Rustoluem taxtured paint in a rattle can from the hardware store. The paint will give you a sandy surface which doesn't reflect light evenly, thus eliminating the "plastic" look of sheet styrene.
I use Rustoluem textured speckled spray paint in black for roof painting. It gives a nice asphalt appearance.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Then you are well on your way to success
Bear "It's all about having fun."
Well, by currently build, I meant removing the peices from their holding things, what every they are called, Nothing has been glued or connected yet. I have looked over the instructions, and I started layout out peices (that I have cut out) so they would be easier to find when the building starts. :D
~Eastrail
Eastrail, whatever you do, paint the pieces first before you assemble the building, even if you are going to hand brush them. I use rattle can paint myself dries inside of 20 minutes.
Thanks, I don't plan to light the interior of the building.
The grey on that old warehouse looks pretty good. I didn't think Air Brushes would be so expensive.
Thanks for the help so far.
I usually rattle can buildings or use an airbrush. I don't care for the color Walthers has painted there model. This is the old Montgomery Ward warehouse in Baltimore
http://mht.maryland.gov/nr/images/nr1251p.jpg sorry I can't get the picture icon to work.
Walthers did do a decent job of weathering. I use pan pastels, washes for that. I also spray the windows and doors a different color. I don't want my building to look like every other Centennial Mills building.
On styrene buildings I usually light them inside. So I wash with soapy water then rattle can primer in and out. The inside paint prevents light showing through the wall if light colored. I often paint inside tan or other with acrylics using a brush. Outside an acrylic color I like or blend a couple. I dilute the paint if thick so it flows ok. I usually weather lightly with gray or blackisk thin wash. Lastly a sprap can application of Dull Cote.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Hello all, I have question.
I am currently building Walthers Centennial Mills Cornerstone kit, and I would like to know how to apply the paint, would you use a standard brush, a special brush, or a type of spray on paint. Also any tips on what colors to use would be helpful. This is my first time building a kit that needs to be painted, and I could use all the help I could get.
Are there any recomendations for a worn out red or brown.